San Pedro, Amergris Caye, Belize Trip - 10/27/12 thru 11/2/2012

[Codeman00]

My wife and I are taking a dive trip to Ambergris Cay in late October. I have read several trip reports here and thanks to you guys, I have been able to get an idea of what to expect on the island. I wanted to kind of layout our trip and see if any of you that have been there can give me any tips and see if there's anything I can do better. I would consider myself an advanced diver (95 dives)...my wife is still a bit novice...but almost intermediate (20 dives).

We'll arrive in Belize City on a Saturday....and many non-scubaboard people have told us to take the boat to the Reef Village Hotel (north of the bridge). Well, I think most of them really enjoy the boat ride and I feel like with diving, I'm going to be on a boat all week, so I would rather take the small plane over to Ambergris Caye and get there faster. How exactly will we get from the small plane to the hotel? Cab or golf cart?

As far as the diving, we plan on diving at least 5 days. I definitely want to dive at least one atoll and I'd like to do two during the week if possible (Blue Hole/Lighthouse and Turneffe, if available). Many people here say that doing 2 atolls in a week is going to be too much for us due to the long boat trips. Do you agree? I wouldn't be opposed to doing the 5 or 6 dive overnight trip that some of the dive-ops offer. I noticed that Island Divers offers that trip and they also do local diving as well as book other tours. Because Island Divers is a one stop shop for all of the dives and tours, it seems like it would just be easier to go with them instead of doing one set of dives with one dive-op and then some with another. Are there any other dive-ops that will do both "atoll" and "local" diving? I have put in an email to Island Divers but haven't heard back from them on rates, etc. Will the dive ops pick you up? Will they store your equipment or do you have to lug it home every night?

What's interesting is that some people are really down on the local Ambergris Caye diving...others say its really good diving. Some say that the only places to dive are out the atolls and they wouldn't recommend diving out of Ambergris Caye at all? I just want to make sure we get some good dives in while we are there....and if that means doing two atoll trips, then I will make sure to plan for it.

Can anyone recommend some good restaurants to eat at? Our style is more of a "good food on a budget" but a couple of higher end places would be nice too. Are there grocery stores in San Pedro or does everyone eat out for every meal?

Any information and tips are appreciated!

 

[peterbj7]

October is pretty quiet on AC, so even if the weather and sea state permit an atoll trip it won't happen unless there are enough takers. Island Divers do do the occasional atill trip, but more usually such a trip would be farmed out to another operator, Amigos del Mar being the most likely though not the only one.

Whether you come by local plane or ferry, you'll be deposited in San Pedro twown and will have an additional step to get to Reef Village (where you're staying?). For the record, I would most certainly fly.

All dive ops will rinse and store your gear, assuming you're diving with them the following day. If you're going to transfer to another operator for an atoll trip your gear will clearly need to be transferred.

Ambergris Caye does have some pretty good diving, though not as spectacular as can be found on the atolls. IMO the diving on the northern end of AC, quite a few miles away from San Pedro, can be more interesting. If you were not already committed to Reef Village I might have suggested you also look to the north.

I would say 95 dives for most people is not "advanced" though it may be "advanced open water". I would call 20 dives "novice", not "intermediate". Fewer still dives I would call "beginner". The issue is what water conditions you have experienced and mastered, and at 95 dives although you may feel comfortable in familiar surroundings/conditions you may still get a bit of a shock when presented with something rather different. That said, Ambergris Caye diving isn't difficult or demanding, though it does tend to be a little deep for some people's experience - reckon on most first dives (of the day) being to 80ft+, with most other dives reaching at least 60ft. That depth range is of course perfect for using nitrox.

Island Divers can be tricky to reach, as there seems to be something wrong with their website mail. If you sent an actual email there should be no problems, but if you used their website service it's quite possible it didn't reach them. Come back here if that's the case and I'll give you a direct email address for the owner.

I should have said - depending on where you are staying most dive centres will pick you up and return you afterwards. Reef Village is no problem for this.

 

[Codeman00]

We are committed to Reef Village due to a family timeshare that we are using. It wasn't my first choice by far but for $200 for the week, you can't really beat it. I'm not sure we'll use it again though...we only get to go on a dive trip once a year, I like to try make it the best that I can. Maybe next time we can stay elsewhere and have a better dive trip....this trip will be a learning experience.

I guess that novice, intermediate, and advanced is all relative. I'll stick with the number of dives next time. At 95 dives, advanced classes, diving Nitrox, and after diving with Blackbeards early on in rough conditions, I feel advanced...lol. I'm very comfortable diving. I agree though that others might not take to diving or feel as comfortable as I do....and I would have to agree that my wife is more novice than anything. We're both comfortable at depths too, so we should be fine.

I have tried to reach Island Divers through their webmail....if you could PM me or post the email address, I would appreciate it. I'll give it a try. That's good to know about Island Divers farming out the trip and that the trip might not be available. Would you recommend island divers or another operation?

So most people rent a golf cart? How much is the rental and how much does it cost to cross the bridge?

 

[AWMIII]

We are committed to Reef Village due to a family timeshare that we are using. It wasn't my first choice by far but for $200 for the week, you can't really beat it. I'm not sure we'll use it again though...we only get to go on a dive trip once a year, I like to try make it the best that I can. Maybe next time we can stay elsewhere and have a better dive trip....this trip will be a learning experience.

I guess that novice, intermediate, and advanced is all relative. I'll stick with the number of dives next time. At 95 dives, advanced classes, diving Nitrox, and after diving with Blackbeards early on in rough conditions, I feel advanced...lol. I'm very comfortable diving. I agree though that others might not take to diving or feel as comfortable as I do....and I would have to agree that my wife is more novice than anything. We're both comfortable at depths too, so we should be fine.

I have tried to reach Island Divers through their webmail....if you could PM me or post the email address, I would appreciate it. I'll give it a try. That's good to know about Island Divers farming out the trip and that the trip might not be available. Would you recommend island divers or another operation?

So most people rent a golf cart? How much is the rental and how much does it cost to cross the bridge?

The bridge is 5$us roundtrip for a golfcart. If Reef Villiage are those are the places on the north side of the "river", I would say a Golf cart is optional. It is a healthy walk to the center of town, but there are plenty of grocery stores, ect just across the bridge from RV. There are also a few places near the bridge on th north side of the "river".

Island Divers is a fun group. I enjoyed my dives with them. However, you MUST WATCH YOUR COMPUTER doing local dives off SP with any of the operators. Don't expect your divemaster to manage your profile with any of the operators. It may seem like they have absolutely everything taken care of for you, but do watch your own profile regardless of with whom you dive.

Two atoll trips is too much. a blue hole trip is a 14hr affair. I am not sure that you could find a turneffe trip that time fo the year. I really enjoy the local dives. The people who complain about the diving are either having terrible luck or are seriously jaded. Peter dives several times a week from San Pedro year round. Whats ho hum to him is mind blowing to a guy from Tennesse. Atleast it is mind blowing to a guy from Philly. There are lots of big fish an d plenty of coral on the local dives. The water is warm and a 60ft viz day is a crappy day. The underwater scenary on Lighthouse Reef is amazing.


We like to do afternoon cocktails and snacks at the Palapa bar which is fairly near the bridge on the north side. We also like Wahoo which is right by Island Divers on the beach. They will bring food over from the restaurant nextdoor. Estelles is great and economical for breakfast or lunch. It is also near Island Divers. Island Divers will show you where the local deli is for breakfast before diving. For dinner we like Wild Mangos, Elvi's, The Reef, and the burrito place across from the Reef on the middle street.

San Pedro is a really friendly place and you will feel like you know 1/3 of the population by the end of your stay.

---------- Post added ----------

I almost forgot. I rather liked the boat trip accross from Belize City. It is a very local experience. It is like a city bus merged with a cigarrette boat. Flying is certainly faster, but the boat is only $15 each way.

You can get a cab from either the airport or ferry dock in San Pedro to the reef village.

 

[peterbj7]

Well, you have some personal experiences there. I agree that two atoll trips in a week is too much for most people - certainly for me.

I'll PM you the email address.

 

[Codeman00]

Well, you have some personal experiences there. I agree that two atoll trips in a week is too much for most people - certainly for me.

I'll PM you the email address.

Island Divers contacted me today with rates, etc. Thanks for the help in getting in touch with them.

Also, thanks for the info AWMIII on the diving and restaurants...that will help out a ton!

 

[yakivet]

Well I'm glad that you've been able to make contact with Rudy and his Island Divers. My wife and I have been visiting Ambergris yearly for quite some time and we've been using the services of Island Divers for the last 5 years. They are a nice group that enjoy diving, yet are cautious enough that if the water conditions, particularly in the Cut and outside the reef aren't safe, then they'll cancel the trip. That has yet to happened only 2 days out of our 5 trips. October shouldn't be a problem.

As AWMIII noted and Peter Jones eluded to, dives on Ambergris do tend to be a little on the deeper side. Although the first dive of the day is profiled to 80 feet, its not uncommon to hit 90-95. I personally like the 90-105ft zone as its where a few more of the Lionfish hang out. The second 60 ft dive, often is 70-75 or even 80. Not an issue, but one that you should be aware of and one that you should keep track of while diving. Please be the keeper of your own profile. The Divemasters on Ambergris typically won't babysit you unless asked. More than once on our last trip I saw divers that need to spend additional safety stop time to let their computers clear. One bent his computer and was diving the next day with a different one. Just asking for trouble in my book! Just use your training and pay attention.

If you are only there for a week, I agree with Peter, I'd only spend one day diving the Atolls. I'm guessing it will be the Blue Hole instead of Turneffe, as it seems like lately there just isn't enough divers to make both trips regularly available. You might ask early in the week though as they may be able to put one together. Amigo's has a nice and comfortable big boat. I've used them for a couple of Atoll trips myself. I've done 2 of the trips in the same week and it does make for 2 long days. You are pretty much gone from 7am-4pm although they do provide a nice lunch on Halfmoon Caye.

I am one of those people that continues to enjoy the diving on Ambergris. Visability is good and the water is warm. The deeper reefs are in good shape but certainly don't have the sheer numbers of fish that the atolls have available. I guess I like the whole package. Nice town, good diving, nice people, short boat ride, decent beer and good food. Its the only place I've been to yearly for the last 5 years.

Breakfast at Estelle's is a must. Its close to Island Divers. For dinner, Wild Mango's, Blue Water Grill (Caye Lime Pie), Casa Picasso, Waraguma's and the Hurricane Bar over the water just south of Sunbreeze Hotel are all good. There are numerous grocery stores. Even though Island divers will pick up at your dock, I'd probably rent a golf cart so you can explore during the afternoons and evenings. You must stop by DandE's Ice Cream and have a bit of their homemade frozen custard. Wonderful, and my personal favorite is the SourSop.

 

[Jen&Patrick]

As I have been planning my upcoming trip to Belize, I have come across a few of your posts recommending Island Divers. I checked out their website and was saddened by the pictures they post of sealife being handled and posed. For example: There is one shot of two nurse sharks being held stomach to stomach, as if they are kissing. Photo Gallery | | Island Divers BelizeIsland Divers Belize
I know my husband and I have used companies in the past that we had great experiences with and others did not have that same experience. You can have a great dive company with a few poorly trained DMs. My main concern is the establishment allows those photos on their website and to me this is what I could expect to see diving with them. Due to that, we will not be using Island Divers. I hope before you chose to use their services again, you take a look at their website and if it bothers you, you make contact with them and let them know it.

I appreciate your posts and the guidance you've given in other areas concerning Belize.

 

[Codeman00]

As I have been planning my upcoming trip to Belize, I have come across a few of your posts recommending Island Divers. I checked out their website and was saddened by the pictures they post of sealife being handled and posed. For example: There is one shot of two nurse sharks being held stomach to stomach, as if they are kissing. Photo Gallery | | Island Divers BelizeIsland Divers Belize
I know my husband and I have used companies in the past that we had great experiences with and others did not have that same experience. You can have a great dive company with a few poorly trained DMs. My main concern is the establishment allows those photos on their website and to me this is what I could expect to see diving with them. Due to that, we will not be using Island Divers. I hope before you chose to use their services again, you take a look at their website and if it bothers you, you make contact with them and let them know it.

I appreciate your posts and the guidance you've given in other areas concerning Belize.

I guess it shows how different two people can look at a situation. I saw that picture long ago in the gallery and really didn't think anything of it. I've played with an octupus before and really didn't think of myself as a bad person because of it. I'm sure he's okay and lived to tell about it. Island Divers has obtained rave reviews from this site and I trust the views and opinions of the people here. I just booked with them yesterday as a matter of fact. It still doesn't hurt to email them and let them know your thoughts though since you feel so strongly about it.

 

[peterbj7]

A point of information. The nurse sharks here are long accustomed to human interaction and seek it out. When I visit certain dive sites, even by myself, I often get them coming up and brushing against me, and weaving between my legs. I have seen nurse sharks apparently mishandled as you describe, but when they're released the same sharks come back, often to the same person, for more. Food usually doesn't enter into it. I personally don't initiate contact, but sharks often do that for themselves.

As to not going with Island Divers because of the photograph, I doubt you'll find a single operator here where similar behaviour doesn't take place, given similar circumstances.