Sam's Tours & Sea Passion Hotel: Palau Trip Report, Christmas 2010

[Sorrows]

Bubba, we got used to the showers--after that first night of disapointment. Since they used solar energy, it figures they wouldn't have that much hot water that late at night. I think it was more the enormous size of that showerhead. We were talking about it with another group of Americans and everybody started referencing a particular Seinfeld episode. You probably know the one I mean. It's good that we have these water/energy-saving policies in hand, but I confess that I do miss the more forceful showers back in the old days.

Hooking in, as you advised, wasn't so very hard. I only remember the current being a problem one time, so we were pretty lucky. And once I had a devil of a time finding some dead coral to hook onto!

Here's a photo from Blue Corner I took of the group next to us. They couldn't even see for all the fish that are in front of them and refusing to budge:



On Christmas day, I turned and saw Santa on the hook at Blue Corner. Sadly, I was in back of him, but I did take this photo just to prove that yes, Virginia, there really is a Santa Claus:

 

[Deep Water Dan]

Is this you getting on the boat?

 

[Sorrows]

No, Dan, that's my husband. I guess we all really do look alike underwater.

 

[Sorrows]

Oh, you thought I was finished? Here's a list of the restaurants we visited in Palau; it's quite a short one, because most of the time we just went to...

Sam's Bottom Time Bar & Grill: Especially after a 3 (or 4) dive day--it was just too tough to make it back to the hotel, shower, change and go out again. (I know--we ARE wussies! But you can shower at Sam's--the water is nice and hot!) Besides, the sashimi is great, as is the company. Plenty of the usual casual fare--hamburgers, burritos, etc.--and the Red Rooster is cold and so is the REAL iced tea!

Kramer's: Within walking distance to Sea Passion, and I would say the best of the casual waterfront places. The usual items, but also some more upscale entrees--paella, for example. The bar is hopping, with games of fussball, etc. The night we were there, a local group showed up and started singing Christmas carols. Very nice.

The Drop-Off: At Neco's. We weren't terribly impressed; on one hand, my grilled fish sandwich was really good. OTOH, the service was just weird. Each of us got our food at such long intervals that the first was finished before the second began and the second was finished before the third got his--what, do they only have one plate?

The Taj: You've heard about it, I'm sure. Yes, it really is that good. A bit pricey, perhaps, but excellent food and service. They will pick you up at your hotel (when they are not too busy). Love the raita and the lamb was delicious.

Sushi Miko (sp): I think I have the name wrong, but this little Japanese restaurant is located just below the Taj and it is a gem. We went there to celebrate my son's birthday and had a blast. The owner and staff could not have been nicer. Lots of local fish and dishes we hadn't tried before (and we are sushi aficionados) and the mama-san brought my son a little bottle of sake (I was hoping for some kind of cake, but, oh,well...).

Elilai: We wanted to do something special for Christmas dinner, and I'd heard that this was the most elegant restaurant in Palau. Their advertisement says "Asian-Mediterranean fusion" but we didn't see anything Mediterranean about it. Of course, on the night we went there, they had three menus available, all fixed price. I had the Palauan, which was a disappointment, although the least expensive ($38). The others had the more expensive Asian-inspired menu. We got to try the mangrove crab (not as easy to crack as the blue!). Some of it was delicious and some of it was kind of mediocre, and none of it was really worth what we paid for it. The view is, however, outstanding and the tiny Japanese waitresses in their yellow sarongs are amazingly cute. Still, I wouldn't go again.

Melolai (sp?) next to the Komandi (sp?) bakery, behind the WCTC: Okay, my memory is worse than my spelling here, I'm sure, but everybody knows this place. The chef is Filipino and the menu is extensive. Good food and plenty of it. I mean, portions are HUGE. Don't be fooled by the extremely reasonable prices like we were. The. portions. are. HUGE!!! Forewarned is forearmed.

I already told you about the regular restaurant/room service and also the Japanese restaurant at Sea Passion. They would definitely do in a pinch--convenience!--but neither would be my preference.

 

[Sorrows]

Some of you may remember that I had expressed a desire to go to church on Christmas Eve while in Palau. I didn't care about the denomination, so much; for me church-going in a foreign country is just as much a cultural experience as a religious one. Frankly, it's usually the only real contact we have with people from our host country (those not in the tourist industry). Sacred Heart Catholic had been recommended to me, so we went with them. The front desk at Sea Passion was very surprised by my request; even more surprised when I told them we didn't want to go to the English mass, but the Palauan one.

We went there by taxi (our trusted taxi driver, Dennis, who said he'd come back in about an hour). It was very crowded and extremely hot. One of the nice lady ushers took us into the main church and seated us towards the front (were we taking someone else's seat, I wondered?) The didn't use candles, but kept the lights on bright and hot the whole time. The acolytes came up the aisle with the priest; the choir was in the loft behind us and they sang beautifully. Lovely harmonies, no organ or other instrument--just voices proclaiming joy and faith. It kind of reminded me of the African acapella singing (ladysmith, etc). Whatever. It was just gorgeous. They sang some hymns familiar and some unfamiliar, but it was the best part of the service and helped us keep our minds off the stifling heat.

The sermon was in Palauan, but the priest did interrupt briefly in English to welcome us--the only Westerners in the church. I thought that was very sweet--and several people made a point of welcoming us during the peace and after the service.

There also was very little standing and no kneeling--"not much up and down" as my husband put it. So that was an added plus. If we'd had to exert ourselves, we probably would have passed out. I was truly praying for one of those sudden downpours to cool us off a bit.

Still, a wonderful experience. I mentioned it the next day (Merry Christmas!) and several people were wishing they had gone.

Came back to the hotel that night, full of hope and peace, went down to the lobby to write a brief Christmas e-mail. There was a group of drunken Japanese at the Karaoke bar belting out Rod Stewart's "Angie" followed by an even worse rendition of "Love hurts!" You dammed better believe it hurts! The contrast between this and the spiritual choral singing was just too painful. My ears! They burn!

 

[Sorrows]

Peleliu

I think it was DeepWater Dan who advised everyone to take the full-day land tour rather than tacking it on a regular two dive trip down to Peleliu. This is good advice and I wish we'd followed it. The two hours they give you is just too short. I'd read With the Old Breed by Sledge and seen The Pacific and, of course, had visited the USMC museum in Quantico, which gives you a great overview of the island-hopping the US Marines undertook as they slugged their way to Japan. So I was really looking forward to seeing the places where those horrific events had taken place. Perhaps I asked too many questions? I felt the tour guide was a little impatient with me--for taking so long at the little museum they have, for example. Well, considering the sacrifice and suffering of these men, I figure the least I could do was read the various articles and letters concerning them. Also, I'm kind of a history nerd. So shoot me!

Anyway, it is compelling and sobering and tragic and heartbreaking and all the rest of it. An obscene waste of lives when you consider that the whole thing turned out not to be necessary. What a terrible thing war is.

My dad joined the Navy in the last year of the war--he had just turned 15. He had an uncle who was a marine at Iwo Jima. By all reports, this uncle was a fun and personable guy. I knew him as someone who turned bitter and angry when he got drunk, and he got drunk a lot. It's not just the lives the war took, but the lives they changed, ruined, destroyed. So, hell yeah, pardon me if I want to take a little extra time to pay them homage!

Anyway, I'd say take the full tour. It really is interesting. But wear a hat, sunscreen and bring your water. Imagine these guys in full battle gear and no water--or water contaminated by being in an improperly cleaned oil drum.

 

[RalphJr]

I am posting this to a couple of threads hopeing for a fast response.

Driving to LA tomorrow for our Sunday flight out to Palau. LA to Hawaii to Guam to Palau about 19 hours. So I am packing and the question comes up - what are the laundry facilities at or near the Sea Passion Hotel? I always pack as light as possible. My wife always reminds me that three shirts is just not enough for 12 days on the road and then I throw in a few more. It is easier if the laundermat is on site or close.

I have not been sick in two years so as luck would have it I cought a chest cold about 10 days ago and I am fighting it now. My ears are clear even if my cough sounds bad; you know the guy you don't want to sit by in the plane. No temperature and the Doctor would not give me any antibiotics he says I will be well enough to dive by then!

So If you know about the laundry Please respond asap.

Thanks,

 

[Deep Water Dan]

Swimsuits and dive shirts are the dress code pretty much everywhere except the nice restaurants. You will feel overdressed if you go to the restaurant or bar at the Sea Passion wearing socks. So on dive days you'll never bother changing unless you're going "out" to eat. The Sea Passion will do your laundry for you, and for not much more than you'd spend at a laundromat. Heck, you don't want to waste time doing laundry on Palau, do you?

 

[Stamatatou Amalia]

hi,
very detailed trip report ....
what do you mean by the boats had no heads? a tent over your head when surfacing?

 

[Sorrows]

hi,
very detailed trip report ....
what do you mean by the boats had no heads? a tent over your head when surfacing?

Well, that certainly would be interesting!

Didn't miss them--not like I thought I would. Plenty of places when the boat stopped for lunch!