Rowley Shoals trip review

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judyo1

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# of dives
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I'm just back from Rowley Shoals & for anyone interested, here is my review...
Rowley Shoals Trip October 2016, aboard “Odyssey” (Odyssey Expeditions).

Rowley Shoals are a group of 3 more or less submerged atolls several hundred kms off the coast of Broome. They can only be dived a few months each year. I found it difficult to find information about Rowley Shoals or trip reviews / reports, probably because so few people dive there.

I booked through liveaboard.com. No hassles there.

Pre-trip information did say shampoo & conditioner provided but only shampoo was…. (for those of us who care – I do!) You only get one towel provided so bring your own towel too (although weather was so hot it was pretty easy to dry out!)

Broome is difficult to get to unless you live in WA. It is 2 ½ hours flight from Perth

There were 18 punters on the trip; 15 divers and 3 snorkelers. Sixteen were Australian, 1 kiwi and 1 American.

Odyssey is usually used for trips up into the Kimberley so it is not primarily used. as a dive boat. While she was more than adequate, on occasions it was obvious she hadn’t been designed as a dive boat. There are 4 bathrooms (each with hot shower & toilet) on the dive deck, used by punters & crew. None of the rooms have ensuites. The deluxe rooms have a sink, the standard rooms don’t. I had a standard room and it was fine. All have a fridge and separate aircon (although this doesn’t work when the compressor is in action), the mattress was comfortable & there was plenty of storage space. Soft drinks, juices & water provided, beer, wine & spirits extra. Diving is done from “Homer”, the tender. All of us dived from the one tender and while there was more than enough space, it took a while to pick everybody up / get everybody on board / into the water. An extra zodiac would improve efficiency significantly. There was no dedicated camera area on Odyssey, but a crate with fresh water to rinse cameras off in afterwards. Luckily, most of us just had GoPros but I think if anyone had a large camera / complex set up they may have found it annoying. There was a hose at the back of the boat to rinse of wetsuits etc after each dive but nothing to soak them in – I generally rinsed mine off in the shower. Nitrox was not available. We missed one dive as the compressor broke.
 
continuing
Crew easy going, friendly and efficient. Liam the chef kept the good food coming. Cooked breakfast every second day and on the days with no cooked breakfast you got dessert. I put on weight on the trip!! Plenty of snack food available – home baked cookies, fresh fruit….

It was about a 20 hour overnight steam to get to Rowley Shoals from Broome. Seasickness tablets were provided and I took my own concoction and felt fine. Others looked a little green about the gills. We boarded mid afternoon on the first day and our first 2 dives were the second day in the afternoon at Clerke atoll. Then 3-4 dives per day, with 2 on the last day before another overnight steam back to Broome. Fishing also available for those who were keen (I wasn’t but the fishermen in the group seemed pretty contented).
 
The diving was good. We had one dive master for 15 punters… other crew members dived but they went off on their own rather than diving with the group. Max depth 30m, no deco diving. Briefings usually went along the lines of ‘descend to the wall, drift with the current and see what you see, follow the current, come up at 50 bar or 50 minutes, whichever comes first and set your SMB’(!!). Dive master kept an eye on us and pointed some things out but not outstanding at pointing things out but I guess she was busy enough keeping a watch on people which she seemed to do. Dives limited to 50 minutes or 50 bar (sigh, so not long dives) and then you set your SMB and were retrieved by Homer. Currents present but not strong, probably a good thing as no Nautilus lines / GPS thingies provided.


The diving – I was happy. The best thing for me was the stunning isolation, 360 degrees of horizon, turquoise waters (water temps 29-30 – most people dived in rash suits, I am cold blooded and even I was plenty warm enough in sharkskin!). The coral was pristine (I guess not often visited), colourful… Fish – plenty of white tipped reef sharks, grey reef sharks, saw some leopard sharks & a hammerhead was spotted. Turtles. Potato cod but the big cod promised at cod hole never eventuated. Schooling Trevally, the hugest Bumphead Parrot fish I have ever seen, coral trout, angel fish… many varieties of clown fish… We also had dolphins swimming at the bow of Odyssey and were lucky enough to see a Mama Humpback whale & her calf up close at Mermaid Atoll (this alone made the trip really!). We had 18 dives in the week long trip.


Overall a fun trip with a good group of people. Odyssey very satisfactory to travel on although not primarily designed as a dive boat & no ensuites. I think there is another dive boat that goes out to Rowley Shoals – it does have nitrox, ensuites, daily room service etc, and is significantly more expensive…. decide what is important to you and what you want to pay. Good diving. Broome difficult to get to from out of Australia, probably reflects the large Australian contingent of punters. Would happily recommend the trip.


Cheers
 
Judyo1 what a treat to read such a thoughful report on this area - thanks so much for posting it. When I had asked a Cairns photo pro for the diving he loved most in Australia, Rowley Shoals was his #1. I looked into it as soon as I got home but found very limited info and very very restricted dates.

I'm curious - did they give you any reason why they limited dives to 45 min? The itinerary is run so rarely and the area is so remote, it just seems a shame to be so stingy with dive times!

Were there any night dives or were the 4th dives day dives?

And talk about lucky re. the humpback and calf. Is it permitted to get in the water with them there (or maybe you passed them on a dive?), or were you observing from the panga/mother ship?

Colour me jealous. :)
 
Hi
50 minute dive time, not 45. Not sure, to be honest, they were strict about the 50 bar (and people followed it), most people came up with only 50 bar of air. It has been commented that I have gills (am good on my air) so found it frustrating but compensated by staying deeper. Both depth & length of dive limited by no nitrox.
We had one night dive. One other option for night dive but people voted for day dive instead.
The Humpback whale & calf - I think we were extremely lucky to see them, apparently very late in the season to see. They came up right beside the main boat - a few people jumped in the water but then they headed off (the whales that is..) We think the calf was misbehaving and coming too close to the boat & Mama shepherded it away. They were awesome!
I'll pm you some pictures (if I can work out how!)

And yes I posted the review as it was soooo hard to find any information on these trips. THe Rowley Shoals are only dive-able a few months of the year (weather too bad at otehr times). I guess Broome itself is pretty remote to get to and the Rowleys even harder... worth it though!
 
Great review Judy, it would be nice to see some pictures though, accommodation / boat as well as the dive sites .... try using Photobucket and linking from there.

I am heading down unda in a couple of weeks and was surprised at the lack of available Nitrox with some dive ops especially if you are venturing so far out, and given the price you have to pay in Australia too for diving the 50 minute limit is crazy when you have a good SAC rate. I guess I am going to have to make sure that I am first off the boat and last back.

The only time I dive air is when I am not planning to go below 10-15m
 
We also had dolphins swimming at the bow of Odyssey and were lucky enough to see a Mama Humpback whale & her calf up close at Mermaid Atoll (this alone made the trip really!). We had 18 dives in the week long trip.

I was just looking at my instagram feed (I follow Western Australia for obvious reasons) and saw the video of the whales and googled rowley shoals and found your post! Check out the drone footage below. Was this y'all?

Instagram video by Western Australia • Nov 26, 2016 at 10:36am UTC
 
Have generally found Aussie diving to be expensive...

Cheers

Absolutely
 

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