Trip Report Roatan May 18-25 2022

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

living4experiences

ScubaBoard Sponsor
ScubaBoard Sponsor
Messages
829
Reaction score
1,110
Location
Tigard, Oregon
# of dives
500 - 999
After having been to Roatan on cruise ship dive excursions several times, I wanted to make a dedicated trip to come to Roatan. I took advantage of the 50% off per person sale earlier in the year from Anthony's Key Resort. As a single diver, the pricing worked out well. I booked directly with AKR and my package was 7 nights, 6 days of diving, 3 dives a day, 2 night dives, a trek over to Maya Key, meals, water, tea and coffee, and airport transfers. Despite their website advertising this resort as all inclusive, it is not. There is a charge for everything except water, tea and coffee. Nitrox is $11.50 per tank or $161 for the week. I got a consistent 31% on the Nitrox.

The Bungalow. I stayed in a Key Superior over-the-water bungalow, #18, which requires the one-minute water taxi to go back and forth to the "main" resort with all the amenities. I requested a room close to the taxi dock, and it was 140 steps. There was always a driver available. I'm writing this while in my bungalow since I'm leaving tomorrow, and the diving wasn't that great that I felt the need to do the last 2 dives this morning. More on that to come. The room is sized well enough for a single person with really good A/C and a comfortable queen bed, a mini fridge, coffee maker and coffee supplies. There has been a problem with tiny ants, so everything stays up off the floor. I guess that's to be expected since these bungalows sit right over the mangrove lagoon. My unit shares a covered patio with two other bungalows, but since they've been vacant, I've had the patio to myself. There is free wi-fi in the room and in the lobby and restaurant. Everything on the property is open air, and the only A/C you'll find on the property is in your room.

The Restaurant. The new, ground level restaurant is built but nothing is happening with it opening. So, the existing restaurant is 50 stairs each way. The menu is set with two options for the main course and one option for vegetarian. They are not amenable to customizing your meal. In my opinion, the food quality is below average.

Schedule. The structure of the dive schedule is set up for Saturday to Saturday stays, so on arrival you get an orientation of the operation. You are assigned a boat, captain, and guide for your entire stay. Since my stay started on Wednesday, I got an incomplete, shortened version of the orientation, and I was on a different boat with different crew till Sunday, at which time I had the same boat, crew and divers. They assign you to a boat based on experience. There is a locker room for your gear, and they assign you a locker number and provide a lock. The space is big enough for the heavy gear, BCD, reg, fins, and has two hangers, no shelves. There is one guide and one captain per boat no matter how many divers are on the boat, up to 15 people. The most I had on the boat was 8 other divers, and Sunday and Monday there was just 5 of us. Yay for that! I'm not keen on more than 6-8 divers per guide. There are no surface interval snacks provided. When I did my cruise ship excursions, snacks were provided.

The Service. I give high marks for all the staff on the property. They want you to be happy and will do what they can to make your stay is enjoyable. The dive staff was great. If you needed help with anything, all you had to do was ask. I saw something I've never seen before with one of the captains. As you're exiting the water, you stay on the third rung of the ladder, tilt your body forward, and he removes the tank from your back and hoists it over to your station all in about 20 seconds. You then get on the boat with just your BCD. It was fantastic!!

The Weather and Bugs. It's been very windy since I got here. The mornings start off with a slight breeze and builds to high, gusty winds by the third dive each day, so exiting the water has been rough. At night, the wind gusts were so strong, the bungalow shook, almost like feeling a 2.0 earthquake, shaking side to side. It was raining most of yesterday, but not a downpour; just a light rain. Today it's sunny again. It is sweltering hot and humid...no surprise. The sand flies and mosquitoes are brutal. Sand flies are nasty and invisible. They can deposit their larvae in your skin when they bite, which can cause a bad infection and a parasitic disease called leishmaniasis.

The Diving. There is a coral restoration project going on under water, so I got to see the growing coral garden. The visibility has been less than ideal. The water has a lot of gunk and jellyfish, and I'm really glad I stayed in my 3 mm full wetsuit. The water temps have been 82-89 degrees, and I was tempted to shed the wetsuit. But after seeing what people were looking like diving in shorts with multiple stings, I thought better of it. The reef is suffering much like the rest of the Caribbean. The growth of red and green algae is really sad and it's choking the reef literally to death. It's really brown and colorless down there. There was a site or two that had some impressive barrel sponges sitting amongst a 10-foot perimeter of dead reef. It's not very fishy either. Very few of the typical reef fish could be found. The locals are fishing out the sea. Most of the fish are tiny newborns. There were 3 lionfish this week. The guide speared and killed one of them but then had no interest in killing the other two, even though he told us to alert him and he'd take care of them.

There were a couple of eagle rays to be found and if the viz was better, it would have been a better viewing. Saw a couple of turtles, a single eel, 3 nurse sharks, and the usual sergeant majors, black durgeons on the top of the reef. I did spot some daytime lobsters, and sadly many, many lobster remains of what was obviously too small to kill. Maybe they don't have protections here for killing lobsters under a certain size. On a couple of dives, it was just a 50 minute swim with nothing to see at all. If it weren't for the guides taking us to known critter spots, it would have been really boring diving, although it required a lot of swimming to get there.

I'd say the best dive of the trip was my last dive, yesterday. The guide found three different seahorses, a yellow one, a brown one, and a white one, and that was spectacular! We also had a turtle scream by us swimming for his life. Don't know what was chasing him, but he was flying. I also found a lobster nestled in a barrel sponge and a group of three Pederson cleaner shrimp. I'll try to post the pictures.

The Night Dive. Night diving is a favorite of mine, and oftentimes, as this was, the night dive was better than day diving. We had five octopuses and several supersize lobsters and crabs. But the jellyfish really put a damper on the fun. In the first 20 feet of water, they were everywhere. Other divers had given the advice to wear all the coverup you can. In addition to my fully body covering, I added a buff over my head that came up over my chin and under the reg. And guess what...I got stung on my upper lip exiting the boat. Ouch! I always carry a spray bottle of vinegar, and by the time I got back to my room, the stinging was neutralized.

Something I noticed during my week here; there was a pleasant camaraderie amongst the divers more than I've experienced at other land-based operations. Underwater, everyone would share their discoveries rather than keeping it to themselves. I thought that was really nice. I also talked to many people who have been coming here for years, although I can't figure out why, because the diving is not worth the trip.

I've now marked this off my list of places to dive, but this is a one-and-done trip for me, primarily because the dive experience was not great. If I had paid the regular rate, I'd be much more grumpy about having to spend the time, money, and effort to come from Oregon.
 
Appreciate the detailed, practical report.

Despite their website advertising this resort as all inclusive, it is not. There is a charge for everything except water, tea and coffee.
That's probably a 'one man's ceiling is another man's floor' issue. I don't drink alcohol and know it costs money, resulting in higher package prices, so anytime I see a vacation package that includes booze, it's a hard sell for me because I feel like I'm getting ripped off. Not impossible...live-aboards (which I like) often include some alcohol options, but also sodas (and I drink a lot of diet soda).
I've now marked this off my list of places to dive, but this is a one-and-done trip for me, primarily because the dive experience was not great.
From what I recall, @Doc has mentioned in the past that Roatan's northern shore and southern shore diving are different. Might be worth a week at CocoView Resort someday to try that. Per your profile, you've dove these before:

Hawaii, Mexico, St. Marteen, St. Croix, St. Lucia, St. Thomas, St. Kitts, Grenada, Bonaire, Belize, Honduras, Aruba, Bahamas, Grand Cayman

That's a nice mix. Putting aside Hawaii and very different from the Caribbean and known for endemic species, from what I've read, where do you put your Roatan trip driving compared to those others? Any places you thought it beat?

Nitrox is $11.50 per tank or $161 for the week. I got a consistent 31% on the Nitrox.
For the number of dives and their profiles on your trip, do you think diving nitrox gave you any benefits, or would you have been as well off diving air?
 
@drrich2, I don't drink much, if any, alcohol on a dive trip. Maybe a couple of cocktails at the end of the trip, so it's not important to me. However, IMO, an all-inclusive includes meals, snacks, and all non-alcoholic beverages. I expected a better offering than just tea, water, and coffee.

I would put Roatan near the bottom of my list of dive locations. I hadn't updated my profile for awhile, so I've added Curacao. Having been there in December 2021, I have put that at the top of my list now and plan to return. To narrow it down further, of the ABC islands, I would rate Curacao first, then Bonaire, then Aruba. I'm not a shore diver, so that's not appealing to me in Bonaire. I stayed at Divi Flamingo and did boat diving with the onsite dive shop and really enjoyed the whole experience.

I get definite and discernable benefit from diving on Nitrox. This trip in Roatan was 4 dives the first day, and 3 dives per day for the next 4 days, diving in the 60-80 foot range. I would say I had the usual tiredness after 3 dives, but not so tired as to feel exhaustion. I haven't dived on air for a long time, but Nitrox wasn't available at Sunn Odyssey in Freeport, Bahamas, when I was there in April 2022, so I was stuck with using air. Boy, I could tell the difference. Two dives per day was all they offered, and I was wiped out and really tired using air.
 
@drrich2 I, too, would suggest a visit to CoCoView, and although it would be totally different, likely would create a similar trip report.

I just got back (from CCV) and the reef and fish looked pretty good to me. I am also a big fan of Night Diving and my group did one each night, 6 Night Dives in total.

Out of six divers, only two elected to use nitrox, they did not appear to be any more frisky than the troglodyte air breathers. These were divers who began Diving before Nitrox was ever capitalized, so they view it as a tool. The diving was so shallow, even a 5x a day, they felt no need to use this tool.

Friskiness is an internal, personalized thing. Only Heaven knows what happened in their bungalow after the night dive. Kind of like Dennis Hopper with that nItRoX in Blue Velvet.
 
As you're exiting the water, you stay on the third rung of the ladder, tilt your body forward, and he removes the tank from your back and hoists it over to your station all in about 20 seconds. You then get on the boat with just your BCD. It was fantastic!
Wow, that sounds nice. I would love to have that service.

We were at Turquoise Bay around the same time you were there, May 21-28. I found the diving to be a little lacking also. This was our first and last time to try out the northern side of the island. If we go back we‘ll go back to Cocoview but that will be awhile because for Caribbean diving Cozumel is our favorite, for the diving and strolling around downtown and eating at all the great restaurants. We try to venture out to different places occasionally but Coz still has my heart.

I could have written so much of what you wrote. You mentioned the visibility, the lack of color, and damage to the reef. I was prepared not to see an abundance of fish, but I was saddened to see the lack of color and actual damage. Along with the low visibility we also had a lot of surge, especially during the earlier part of the week.

Edit: I will say I did like a couple of the swim throughs we did.
 
I was at CCV for the same week. No jellyfish. I dived in a t-shirt and shorts. Vis was fantastic. Insects were manageable. Food was excellent. Corals and fish in great shape. No brown, red or green algae. No mountains of steps to climb for dinner. You really went to the wrong resort. I now understand why AKR do a two-for-one.
 
After having been to Roatan on cruise ship dive excursions several times, I wanted to make a dedicated trip to come to Roatan. I took advantage of the 50% off per person sale earlier in the year from Anthony's Key Resort. As a single diver, the pricing worked out well. I booked directly with AKR and my package was 7 nights, 6 days of diving, 3 dives a day, 2 night dives, a trek over to Maya Key, meals, water, tea and coffee, and airport transfers. Despite their website advertising this resort as all inclusive, it is not. There is a charge for everything except water, tea and coffee. Nitrox is $11.50 per tank or $161 for the week. I got a consistent 31% on the Nitrox.

The Bungalow. I stayed in a Key Superior over-the-water bungalow, #18, which requires the one-minute water taxi to go back and forth to the "main" resort with all the amenities. I requested a room close to the taxi dock, and it was 140 steps. There was always a driver available. I'm writing this while in my bungalow since I'm leaving tomorrow, and the diving wasn't that great that I felt the need to do the last 2 dives this morning. More on that to come. The room is sized well enough for a single person with really good A/C and a comfortable queen bed, a mini fridge, coffee maker and coffee supplies. There has been a problem with tiny ants, so everything stays up off the floor. I guess that's to be expected since these bungalows sit right over the mangrove lagoon. My unit shares a covered patio with two other bungalows, but since they've been vacant, I've had the patio to myself. There is free wi-fi in the room and in the lobby and restaurant. Everything on the property is open air, and the only A/C you'll find on the property is in your room.

The Restaurant. The new, ground level restaurant is built but nothing is happening with it opening. So, the existing restaurant is 50 stairs each way. The menu is set with two options for the main course and one option for vegetarian. They are not amenable to customizing your meal. In my opinion, the food quality is below average.

Schedule. The structure of the dive schedule is set up for Saturday to Saturday stays, so on arrival you get an orientation of the operation. You are assigned a boat, captain, and guide for your entire stay. Since my stay started on Wednesday, I got an incomplete, shortened version of the orientation, and I was on a different boat with different crew till Sunday, at which time I had the same boat, crew and divers. They assign you to a boat based on experience. There is a locker room for your gear, and they assign you a locker number and provide a lock. The space is big enough for the heavy gear, BCD, reg, fins, and has two hangers, no shelves. There is one guide and one captain per boat no matter how many divers are on the boat, up to 15 people. The most I had on the boat was 8 other divers, and Sunday and Monday there was just 5 of us. Yay for that! I'm not keen on more than 6-8 divers per guide. There are no surface interval snacks provided. When I did my cruise ship excursions, snacks were provided.

The Service. I give high marks for all the staff on the property. They want you to be happy and will do what they can to make your stay is enjoyable. The dive staff was great. If you needed help with anything, all you had to do was ask. I saw something I've never seen before with one of the captains. As you're exiting the water, you stay on the third rung of the ladder, tilt your body forward, and he removes the tank from your back and hoists it over to your station all in about 20 seconds. You then get on the boat with just your BCD. It was fantastic!!

The Weather and Bugs. It's been very windy since I got here. The mornings start off with a slight breeze and builds to high, gusty winds by the third dive each day, so exiting the water has been rough. At night, the wind gusts were so strong, the bungalow shook, almost like feeling a 2.0 earthquake, shaking side to side. It was raining most of yesterday, but not a downpour; just a light rain. Today it's sunny again. It is sweltering hot and humid...no surprise. The sand flies and mosquitoes are brutal. Sand flies are nasty and invisible. They can deposit their larvae in your skin when they bite, which can cause a bad infection and a parasitic disease called leishmaniasis.

The Diving. There is a coral restoration project going on under water, so I got to see the growing coral garden. The visibility has been less than ideal. The water has a lot of gunk and jellyfish, and I'm really glad I stayed in my 3 mm full wetsuit. The water temps have been 82-89 degrees, and I was tempted to shed the wetsuit. But after seeing what people were looking like diving in shorts with multiple stings, I thought better of it. The reef is suffering much like the rest of the Caribbean. The growth of red and green algae is really sad and it's choking the reef literally to death. It's really brown and colorless down there. There was a site or two that had some impressive barrel sponges sitting amongst a 10-foot perimeter of dead reef. It's not very fishy either. Very few of the typical reef fish could be found. The locals are fishing out the sea. Most of the fish are tiny newborns. There were 3 lionfish this week. The guide speared and killed one of them but then had no interest in killing the other two, even though he told us to alert him and he'd take care of them.

There were a couple of eagle rays to be found and if the viz was better, it would have been a better viewing. Saw a couple of turtles, a single eel, 3 nurse sharks, and the usual sergeant majors, black durgeons on the top of the reef. I did spot some daytime lobsters, and sadly many, many lobster remains of what was obviously too small to kill. Maybe they don't have protections here for killing lobsters under a certain size. On a couple of dives, it was just a 50 minute swim with nothing to see at all. If it weren't for the guides taking us to known critter spots, it would have been really boring diving, although it required a lot of swimming to get there.

I'd say the best dive of the trip was my last dive, yesterday. The guide found three different seahorses, a yellow one, a brown one, and a white one, and that was spectacular! We also had a turtle scream by us swimming for his life. Don't know what was chasing him, but he was flying. I also found a lobster nestled in a barrel sponge and a group of three Pederson cleaner shrimp. I'll try to post the pictures.

The Night Dive. Night diving is a favorite of mine, and oftentimes, as this was, the night dive was better than day diving. We had five octopuses and several supersize lobsters and crabs. But the jellyfish really put a damper on the fun. In the first 20 feet of water, they were everywhere. Other divers had given the advice to wear all the coverup you can. In addition to my fully body covering, I added a buff over my head that came up over my chin and under the reg. And guess what...I got stung on my upper lip exiting the boat. Ouch! I always carry a spray bottle of vinegar, and by the time I got back to my room, the stinging was neutralized.

Something I noticed during my week here; there was a pleasant camaraderie amongst the divers more than I've experienced at other land-based operations. Underwater, everyone would share their discoveries rather than keeping it to themselves. I thought that was really nice. I also talked to many people who have been coming here for years, although I can't figure out why, because the diving is not worth the trip.

I've now marked this off my list of places to dive, but this is a one-and-done trip for me, primarily because the dive experience was not great. If I had paid the regular rate, I'd be much more grumpy about having to spend the time, money, and effort to come from Oregon.
Thank you for your detailed report. We have booked this trip for September. I dove in Roatan before (In May and October with a cruise dive excursion) and enjoyed it. Is there anything you would recommend to bring?
 
Thank you for your detailed report. We have booked this trip for September. I dove in Roatan before (In May and October with a cruise dive excursion) and enjoyed it. Is there anything you would recommend to bring?
Plenty of insect repellent. Don't bother with the "natural" products. The mosquitoes and sand flies (no-see-ums) need DEET to keep them away.

There are no paved or concrete pathways, just sand. I wore socks and tennis shoes while walking around the property. If your bare feet are exposed, the sand flies will bite you by jumping out of the sand. The females can lay eggs in your bite, which then can cause a bad infection.
 

Back
Top Bottom