Review: XTAR D26 2500 lumens

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AntsS

Registered
Messages
10
Reaction score
17
Location
Iceland
# of dives
1000 - 2499
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Managed to get one of XTAR D26 dive lights to test out and first let me point out the environment where testing has been done: Iceland and both fresh water (night dive in Silfra, 100+m visibility, 3´C water & (almost-mixture of salt and fresh water) ocean dive (about 7`C) in narrow fissure called Bjarnagja. Did not notice any drop in burn time because of low water temperature.

Torch came with proper case - one of these torches where you have everything you need in the box to just charge it up and jump in - and do not have to look for some batteries from local dealer who lives 34 minutes from you. Comes with charger as well.
Light is powered by 2x 26650 batteries in long type of D26 2500. And as advertised, gives about 2 hours of runtime. Good enought for two dives. If doing a liveaboard, not a bad idea to get another set of batteries and some cheap spear light (XTAR has awesome little d20 for that. Size of a finger and throws out 1000 lumens) Still sad that one of my customers managed to borrow it to Odin.
So, all what is in the box and all that you can check out from their homepage. Link in the bottom.

My experience:
First of all, its one solid build dive light. One of these you might want to drop a kilo off your weight belt.
I head they upgraded the switch and it is easy to operate with both - dry gloves or 7mm mitten. Got locking system as well, what I believe is crucial when traveling to dive site as it happened multiple times that my lights have turned on. Mostly human error, but thats what we do. More stupidproof, the better.
Happened way too often that light turns on in the bag. (in human language: Magnetic press switch and lock function, prevention of accidental turn on/off of light.)

2500 lumens is enough to light up what ever necessary and to be honest, I had my Nanight Cave 3 with me in Silfra as well ( and i do love that canister light) , but when I am not planning to blind someone permanently, or just diving around with students, then Nanight is a bit of overkill. Then XTAR does the job perfectly. Four brightness levels - 2500/1400/700/30lm, meeting different diving needs. Amd

They do have a short version of it as well , and I have not had a chance to play around with it, but that might be a perfect spare or something to attach to your dive helmet. Could probably do the same with the current d26 longer version, but your neck muscles would get tired of carrying too decently built heavy lights for over the dive an hour or five hours long.

Seen them selling with 120-130 USD and I believe that its pretty good deal for solid light what serves you well. Double o-rings, solid built housing and beam angle of is 80° - sharp and performs well especially in murky conditions.

I recommended them look into getting it an option for goodman handle as well. Lets see how that goes.

Customer service has been excellent and so far I have been testing two of their products and I can not see a reason why I should not have them in my dive bag - great products! One to borrow to your buddy and other one to have as your main or spare. Or both you your pockets as its never too many lights we can have in dark waters in Iceland, Sweden, Estonia and all that.

Never know, maybe I could get hands on their video lights as well to compare with my current ones and if they will do as good job as the lights I have been using, I might just stick with the brand!

Good prices, great performance and what is the most important, they match with my fins and mask (black and blue color).

That is my opinion on the light and added few pictures from two dives I had with it.
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Have a good evening.

TH
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XTAR D26 2500 Scuba Diving Flashlight|ShenZhen XTAR Electronics Co., Ltd
 
You have not explained how the lock system works. Can you please explain that, in detail?

The Xtar D26 Whale has a lock for the On/Off. The Xtar D26 1600 also has a lock for the On/Off, but it works completely differently than the lock on the Whale.

How does the lock on the 2500 work?
 
Hi stuartv,

I haven’t gotten my hands one the Whale, but to give you a quick answer: simple turning switch ( added a photo ) what prevents button to get turned on by accident while on the lock setting.

Will take the light for the 3rd run on the weekend and will see how it feels in crystal clear waters, but dark summertime conditions, here, in Iceland.
Hopefully soft goodman hangle will arrive for that time as well. Still haven’t found a perfect way to handle it ,using ziptie and boltsnap at the moment.
 

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Hi stuartv,

I haven’t gotten my hands one the Whale, but to give you a quick answer: simple turning switch ( added a photo ) what prevents button to get turned on by accident while on the lock setting.

Will take the light for the 3rd run on the weekend and will see how it feels in crystal clear waters, but dark summertime conditions, here, in Iceland.
Hopefully soft goodman hangle will arrive for that time as well. Still haven’t found a perfect way to handle it ,using ziptie and boltsnap at the moment.

Thanks. It looks like they went back to the same lock they used on the D26 Whale (which is good). The lock on the D26 1600 worked by pressing and holding it to lock or unlock. That turned out to be terrible.

How easy is it to lock and unlock it with your 7mm mittens on, when in the water?
 
Thanks. It looks like they went back to the same lock they used on the D26 Whale (which is good). The lock on the D26 1600 worked by pressing and holding it to lock or unlock. That turned out to be terrible.

How easy is it to lock and unlock it with your 7mm mittens on, when in the water?

I do use dry gloves and with them there is not a problem at all.
Could be a little tricky with 7mm mittens, but I guess it all goes down to small details (experience, how good fit are the gloves, how chubby :) and short are your fingers and all that funny stuff).
I find it easy to use.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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