Review Costa Maya diving with Blue Ocean Safari 20060831 from cruise Carnival Miracle

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Torontonian

Contributor
Messages
563
Reaction score
20
Location
Toronto, Ont., Canada
# of dives
100 - 199
Part 1, long review:

Our Carnival Miracle ship was supposed to be at Costa Maya on Fri. Sept. 1/06, 7am-4pm local time (8am-5pm ship time). But due to hurricane Ernesto, it was changed to Thr. Aug 31, 6am-2pm local time. I didn’t like the time so early in the morning, and also it was shortened by 1 hour. But at least we still went to Costa Maya.

While searching for dive ops, I originally found Dream Time and Maya Palms. Dream Time then became Carnival’s contractor and the price went up double:shakehead . Maya Palms would cost $75 (2-tank dive), but it was ½ hr and $20 by taxi each way. I then found a newly started up shop Blue Ocean Safari (or BOS). The web site was still being developed and at first the email didn’t work. It took some patience and trials to get a hold of Phil Hetherington. After several email exchanges, I decided to give them a try. As the trip got closer, I emailed/phoned both Phil and Julie. Julie is the owner and was traveling between CM and Texas, whereas Phil was not as easy to reach in CM. Costa Maya doesn’t have the stable telecom infrastructure and that added to the communication challenges.

Costa Maya is a new port that can handle 3 ships docking at an L shaped pier. Diving and most other activities are at the small fishing village of Mahahual, 10min taxi ride south of the port . Because of the ship’s change of itinerary, I had to email on the ship (expensive) to BOS. My wife and in-laws and friends (6 of them) were going to the Chacchoben ruins tour in the morning, and I had booked them to come to BOS right after for a lunch and snorkeling trip. But with the shortened time, I told BOS to forget about the lunch arrangements, and they will directly to the snorkeling after the ruins tour.

Earlier on the ship I met another diver Ken, who was interested in joining me to BOS. I emailed to BOS on the ship. Julie indicated that’s fine and she would wait for us just outside the gates of the port area, as they cannot go in.

On Aug. 31 the ship was late getting into arrived Costa Maya. The day before we were in Cozumel, so there was plenty of time to travel the short distance. Don’t know how they managed to steer the ship late. We waited at the gangway wanting to get off right away. It was frustrating that they finally let us off 45 min. late, at 6:45am local time. The pier has an L shape, and we were docked at the furthest location of the L. Furthermore, of the 3 gangway doors of the ship, they used the door furthest away. It makes you wonder what kind of planning the ship was doing. We had quite a long walk to get to the port area where there are lots of shops. We then found they made the walkway in an S shape forcing you to walk a long way around many shops, before getting to the taxi/bus/shuttle area.

My wife’s group were to purchase a $3 ticket to catch a shuttle to Mahahual (to the Chacchoben ruin tour). Ken and I walked outside looking for Julie’s car, but didn’t find it. Well, we were 1 hr from the time the ship was supposed to dock. We went back to ask, but did not find anything, then decided to walk further out. When we walked 2 blocks out to an intersection, that’s where we caught a taxi. The taxi told us it’s $2/person. We then understand that the port was selling $3 tickets to get their cut of $1.

I showed the taxi driver the address, but when we got there, he didn’t see any dive shop. I told him it is supposed to be south of the restaurant Pez Quadro (as Phil had told me), he then continued further a dirt road and continue to look. A few blocks later we saw something like a hut with a poster of Blue Ocean Safari. I saw a man handling some scuba gears and yelled to him if he was Phil. He was. The taxi driver said it’s $3, because it’s further away from the main part of the town Mahuhual. It turned out the address from BOS’ web site is for the office they are building in downtown Mahuhual, whereas the dive op is located several blocks south.

Phil said Julie went to pick us up but did not find us. Phil was putting a bunch of BCs on the deck of the hut. The hut had dried grass top and later on the counter opened as a bar/restaurant. The BCs looked new, same with the rental computer.. Phil said he went to a local shop to get the 100cf tanks as I requested, but they were out of air. In fact, that shop’s compressor broke, so they all had to drive north 45 min to get air fills. Anyway, we’ll all diving with 80cf tanks. I then found out Ken and I are the only two divers.

It was a 5-10min ride to the first dive site, at Escallones. It was a small boat, and we are to back roll into the water. This was the first time for me in such a small boat and the first time with back roll entry, so I was glad I got to do something new. When Ken turned on his tank, it only showed 1500 psi. Phil was surprised, as he drove to get 16 tanks filled the day before. He switched his tank with Ken.

As the dive briefing, we first went down to sand, checked buancy, then head into the reef. The viz was about 80-90’. The reef looked healthy, pristine. The dive started at 8:40am. There were more colors than in Belize (it was quite plain, mostly beige color in Belize). There were more variety of sea fans, lots of pink sponges/corals, horns, tubes, barrel sponges, brain coral, fire corals, etc.. The barrel sponges had more variety and colors than Belize and Cozumel. But the fish variety looked smaller than Coz (Coz had some big fish).

The surface temp was 95, and water temp 85 top and bottom. There were some canyons or abyss, but not very deep. We went down/through some of them, but it was not like cavern/cave swim throughs in Coz. After a little while we can to a wall, and went down a bit. The computer showed the deepest at 93' and I didn't realize we actually got that deep in this dive. I was wearing lycra skin top and pants, and 10lbs of weight.

This was an enjoyable dive, but we were also concerned about Phil’s air. After about 25 min. he pointed to us his air gauge. We continued a bit, then few minutes later had to go to the safety stop. The dive ended at 35min, 9:15am. I had 800psi. I felt that was actually pretty good. When we were going up the boat, Ken indicated that I should unbuckle my BC to hand the BC/tank to the captain, then it’ll be easier to climb the stairs. Another new thing I learned. Phil apologized about the air situation, and said he felt bad that he gypped us in air. As we were riding back, I began to feel a bit sick. It may have been the small boat.

I had a MX10 camera, but after taking a few pictures, it got stuck. I had this problem earlier. So I went looking for a dark place to try to rewind the film and take it out, and put a new roll in. I just bought a macro lense and a strobe, so I was disappointed that I was having problem with the camera itself.

Back on shore we met Julie. I told Julie the Taxi driver at first didn’t find them, based on the address I had from their web site. Julie was surprised. Julie had mentioned the restaurant name that they were by, but because it was a Spanish name I did not pay attention at that time, thinking I have the printed address from their web site with me. So I suggested to Julie they better fix their web site address so people don’t go to the downtown office that isn’t yet built.
 
..review continued..


After a little rest, we went back out. I felt I would get cold in water just wearing lycra, so I wore my 3mm full wetsuit for this dive, and used 14lbs of weight. Phil stayed on shore while the DM this time was Doug. Before going out on this dive, we checked the tanks, and found another one that had only 1600psi. Doug had to switch that one. I guess they now learned that they need to check all the air fills from now on.

It was again a short boat ride out. Doug gave a short briefing, and it would’ve been similar dive landscape to the first one. As we begin to descending, Ken and I were vertical releasing air from the inflator, while Doug went down on horizontal on his back, looking at us. I was really surprised that he went down really fast. I went down a lot slower. We got to sand bottom and quickly checked buancy and began moving into the reef. The landscape was quite similar to the first dive, but viz seemed a little worse, probably 70’. Surface temp was 98 (hot) and water temp was 87.

Doug pointed out a few things, purple Pederson cleaner shrimp, triangle box fish (almost like a little ray), yellow arrowhead crab, and a big lobster. I stayed there to take a few pictures of the big lobster, and one picture was the best of the entire trip with good focus and light. There were some canyons/abyss, not very deep. We swam in some of them. There were lots of different kind of fish, some very colorful. Doug said they were blue chromis, flamingo tongue cowrie, etc. We saw lots of fans, fire coral, vase sponge, big barrel sponges.

We then went over to a wall. It wasn’t a vertical wall but had some slope. We swam by the wall a bit. There I saw one purple vase sponge that was shaped almost like Taiwan (where I originally came from). I tried to take several pictures there. Well, I tried to take pictures at quite a few places in this dive, not knowing how it will turn out with the macro lense and strobe. Later on found the strobe was out of battery (uck!) and the lighting wasn’t very good. It was too bad, because there could’ve been a few good pictures.

During this dive, my camera didn’t get stuck winding early, and went through most of the roll before being stuck, probably rewinding. I was running low on air ½ hr into the dive. I was disappointed in my air consumption. When we went to the safety stop, at first I went almost right to the surface, and had to swam down. Anyway, this dive went to 83’ deep, with bottom time of 34min, even 1 min. shorter than the previous dive when Phil started with 1500psi. I was disappointed that I used air so quickly in this dive. I wonder if it could be because I stopped at a few places to take pictures, and then had to catch up, using more air in the process. Maybe because I changed to the 3mm wetsuit and wore more weights, it changed buancy and air consumption. This dive was from 10:03 – 10:37am, and I ended up with 200psi. Ken ended up with lots of air left, but mentioned he’s usually pretty good on air.

On the ride back, Doug pointed out where the Dream Time dive shop was located. It was about two blocks south of where BOS is. We also talked about that we would have to book through Carnival, at twice the price, to dive with Dream Time. Carnival takes a big cut in the deal.

Doug said the dive site was called Blue Ha. When I talked to Julie right after about the payment, she indicated I can tip Doug directly and pay the rest to her. I asked about the dive site name Blue Ha, then Julie told me it’s called Dosojos, and that Doug likes to call it Blue Ha because he was the owner of the dive op Blue Ha, now called Dream Time. I guess he helped to build a good history for Blue Ha/Dream Time.

We then waited for my wife and friends to come for the snorkeling trip. I was wondering if they would be able to find the place. Ken ordered some lunch from the restaurant and I order a juice. The price was reasonable. Some people came to speak to Julie and Phil in Spanish, they were probably locals. Julie went to get a big of snorkeling gears, all looked brand new. At a bit after 11am, Phil took them out to a snorkeling trip. Another lady also took the BC I was using. I was wondering when my wife would get here.

Ken and I also saw a bus dropped off a bunch of people to a building a few doors down. Soon they came out wearing life jackets, all looking shining and brand new. It turned out they were all going kayaking. The kayaks were the transparent type and looked new. There was someone cutting wood, spray painting, and building right by the restaurant. Several times we saw some roller trucks driving by the dirt road, compressing the dirt. It looked like this place is continuing being built, and people like Julie/Phil and the shops next door are all new businesses, with brand new equipment.

Julie also mentioned that their compressor was already hooked up, but they are waiting for license, to use it. She had some storage locking up her BCs and snorkeling gear, but were stolen, so they are building a new storage place. The downtown office is being built but they were learning that when people tell you it’ll be ready tomorrow, it could be a week or a month later.

When it was about 12;30pm, we felt we should be getting back to port. I figured my wife and gang would know they didn’t have enough time for a snorkeling trip, and would know to go back to port too. But as Julie was driving Ken and I back, we saw my wife’s group walking toward us. It turned out their ruins trip started out late (had to wait for some people, but it was a good trip). At the end they were dropped off at the place according to BOS’ web site address but did not find BOS. They asked some locals who then pointed them this way, so they were walking. They appeared hot and tired, so we took my mother-in-law and another lady into Julie’s car. We told the others to get a taxi to get back to port.

Along the drive back, Julie pointed out how things were being developed and built there. She said they are really expanding in Costa Maya/Mahuhual, and many more cruisers would be coming here. There are more shops, hotels, condos, all going up. She dropped us off outside the gates to the port. She said they did arrange with a shuttle for pickup/dropff before, but the guy let them down.

This port stop and diving trip wasn’t that smooth, with the address and the low air in some tanks. But I can also see this as part of the growing pain, in a very new location. The actual diving experience underwater is quite good. Healthy reef, lots of fish, good colors, good landscape, and I didn’t have to pay twice the amount to Carnival. But make sure you get the Spanish name of the restaurant where they are located before going, so you don't go to the downtown office yet to be built.
 
Thanks for your review. I am planning a cruise to Costa Maya, Belize, and Cozumel, and I am trying to decide which place to dive (limited funds requires choices). which would you chose?
 
Cozumel would be my top choice. really liked the drift diving. I've also written a report which you can find in the Cozumel sub-forum.

Since you're in Tampa, you would know about Crystal River manatee snorkeling and Rainbow River diving.

Costa Maya would be my next choice. BOS hopefully would have improved in organizaint themselves now. And diving is pretty good there.

Belize is one place where it takes awhile to travel to the dive sites, so although diving can be good it's better to stay there longer to dive.

You'll enjoy diving in any of these places though.
 
I'm looking forward to my Dive trip and will be on the exact Carnival Miracle cruise destinations. Looking forward to both Grand Cayman and Costa Maya, thanks for writing about your experiences and recommendations. I've dove Cozumel several times so it won't be a new experience. Haven't found a dive op in Belize yet, and am in the process of researching Costa Maya. Plagsage, I have one day in Tampa to dive, where do you recommend? I have been thinking about renting a car and going up to Weeki Waki springs to check out the mermaids, or do you recommend something else. Please PM me since it is somewhat off topic.
 
You owe it to yourselves to take the 20min adventure on the beach road to Maya Palms Resort. Here you see the real Mahahual, not just a tourist strip in town. We can't say enough about our experience. I rarely comment on message boards. I just read them for information. But I feel the need to tell you all what you could be missing. We chose the Resort day package of Diving and Lunch at Maya Palms Resort. We chose this excursion because while researching I saw so many great comments on many message boards about Maya Palms Resort. This is not just another bar in town selling themselves as a dive operation and sharing a crowded beach with a heard of humanity. This is a true dedicated PADI and SSI Diving Resort located on a very private beach (the only people you see are the other guests at Maya Palms). The barrier reef is only 400 yards offshore, which translates into a 5 minute boat ride to the dive sites. We return to the resort in between dives and ate a poolside lunch. (No sitting out in middle of the ocean for an hour or 2 for surface intervals). Four of us are experienced divers with over 100 dives each. Our Divemaster was Ken, a true professional. We made 2 great dives with Ken. He was very attentive and showed us many things we would have missed. He too was from the states. I was told that Maya Palms owners also own and operate Bonne Terre Mine in Missouri, and their Divemasters rotate duties at Maya Palms and Bonne Terre Mine. The boat was a comfortable 49 footer. We all rented our equipment and it was well maintained and looked like new. All their regulators were disinfected. Our aluminum 80's were filled to 3200psi. They had fresh fruit and water on the boat. A diver in the group had not dived in a while. Ken made sure she was very comfortable. I think she fell in love with him... Lots of beautiful live coral, giant sponges (6'-8'tall!) lots of fish, several large sea turtles, giant green moray eel, lobster and so much more. Great photography!!
The resort itself is absolutely beautiful and has beach front villas scattered down the beach. The food was authentic Mexican prepared by their chef Pedro. They even have a large freshwater swimming pool next to the beach! The cab fair was 20.00 dollars and you can walk outside the pier a block or so, and on the right is where you get the yellow cabs. We paid $75 for a 2 tank dive plus our rental. (A bargain when compared to $90 to $149 in town) Again about the cab ride….they take you along the beach road and you truly see a lot of Mahahual and not just the town. It's a beautiful coast. The 20 minute ride takes you past town along the beach road with the jungle to your right and the sea to your left. When you arrive at Maya Palms you will agree that nothing in town or along the way can compare. We even saw a toucan. (And I don’t mean on a Fruit loops box) When we arrived, the owner Catherine and the staff were there to greet us. Catherine made sure we didn't pay the cab until his return. She also planned the time for pick-up. She said it has never happened, but resort has an 18 passenger van to return us to the ship if they didn't show. They were definitely committed to getting us back. Catherine was so nice to us. She is beautiful and has a great personality. She made sure all our needs were attended to. The staff is bilingual. They offered diving, snorkeling, rental equipment, kayaks, restaurant, bar, clean fresh water swimming pool, lounge chairs with cushions, set up on the beach. Their where several other cruisers at Maya Palms that day including some crew from the ship. Fellow Divers and Cruisers, hope this has been helpful. You won't be disappointed. We will definitely be back...Enjoy Costa Maya... Their website link www.mayapalms.com
 
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