kidsdream
Contributor
I keep reading various threads where experts continuously use the buoyancy of a a persons wetsuit as a key factor in wing selection.
I really don't agree. As a diver who gets out in all kinds of conditions and frequently dives from both private boats and pangas (like the Naia and the Galapagos Aggressor) that require you to get out of your rig in the water, your rig's buoyancy needs to be sufficient to float your rig with full tanks even if you are not in it.
Based on that, if you are diving larger steel tanks with "cave fills" your tanks negative buoyancy alone can exceed 14lbs (my Faber mid pressure 100's are over 15lbs negative with 3700psi). So add in a SS plate, regs, lights and a pony and my single rig is the in the 27lb negative range (without a cannister light or camera). The good part is I don't need any weight even in my thick 7/6 Bare wetsuit (my Florida winter wear). I do of course have tanks that are less negative, and I even have an ALU plate (I owned a beautiful Kydex plate but just never used it) but I my std warm water,single tank rig is fitted with a 30lb wing and I certainly would not go with less buoyancy.
Similarly, I don't exactly support determining buoyancy based on just keeping my head out of the water. I like to be able to be able to be at least 3 or 4 inches higher than that in the case I have to be topside drifting, waiting for a boat pick-up for awhile.
The very small wings may be OK for tropical dives with ALU tanks in calm conditions, but if you dive in all kinds of weather, I personally recommend more than some would suggest. And it is not because I am trying to make one wing fit all (I own 3 wings, down from 4). I do like wings that are "narrow" but that is a separate matter.
.... just another viewpoint.
I really don't agree. As a diver who gets out in all kinds of conditions and frequently dives from both private boats and pangas (like the Naia and the Galapagos Aggressor) that require you to get out of your rig in the water, your rig's buoyancy needs to be sufficient to float your rig with full tanks even if you are not in it.
Based on that, if you are diving larger steel tanks with "cave fills" your tanks negative buoyancy alone can exceed 14lbs (my Faber mid pressure 100's are over 15lbs negative with 3700psi). So add in a SS plate, regs, lights and a pony and my single rig is the in the 27lb negative range (without a cannister light or camera). The good part is I don't need any weight even in my thick 7/6 Bare wetsuit (my Florida winter wear). I do of course have tanks that are less negative, and I even have an ALU plate (I owned a beautiful Kydex plate but just never used it) but I my std warm water,single tank rig is fitted with a 30lb wing and I certainly would not go with less buoyancy.
Similarly, I don't exactly support determining buoyancy based on just keeping my head out of the water. I like to be able to be able to be at least 3 or 4 inches higher than that in the case I have to be topside drifting, waiting for a boat pick-up for awhile.
The very small wings may be OK for tropical dives with ALU tanks in calm conditions, but if you dive in all kinds of weather, I personally recommend more than some would suggest. And it is not because I am trying to make one wing fit all (I own 3 wings, down from 4). I do like wings that are "narrow" but that is a separate matter.
.... just another viewpoint.