Replacing power inflator hose o-ring

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Some O-rings are easier than others to work with, not sure why. I change O-rings frequently with work. I've learned that if I'm having difficulty getting one to install, the easiest trick is to just try a different one.
 
Old thread, but a good one! I struggled with getting an O ring back intoi an inflator end for at least 45 minutes with no success. This thread showed me how to do it in seconds. Thanx for the tips guys!
 
I'm replying to this oldie-but-a-goodie inactive thread to say "Thanks" to everyone who posted here.

I replaced the Shrader-valve side o-ring on a low-pressure inflator hose for the first time yesterday.

Thanks to the good suggestions here, the whole job took less time than the google search & reading this thread.

I tossed the machine screw & short piece of 5mm rigid tubing into my random-SCUBA tools box, for the next time I need to replace that o-ring (about 5 years from now, I guess).
 
The o-ring in the power inflator hose (the one that comes from the first stage) needed to be replaced as it was bubbling in the power inflator connection.
I removed the o-ring and I saw that it was pretty deteriorated.
I have a new o-ring to install, but I've been trying without success.
Of course, many will say "buy a new hose", but it's just the o-ring.
Any one knows how to install the new o-ring ?
The o-ring in the power inflator hose (the one that comes from the first stage) needed to be replaced as it was bubbling in the power inflator connection.
I removed the o-ring and I saw that it was pretty deteriorated.
I have a new o-ring to install, but I've been trying without success.
Of course, many will say "buy a new hose", but it's just the o-ring.
Any one knows how to install the new o-ring ?
Up to date solution, in the EU : very fast operation https://www.scubaservicetools.com/product-page/inflator-connector-o-ring-toolset
 
Keep in mind the importance of choosing the right o-ring before you start. Might be a 2-011; might be a 3-903. If you use a -011 (X/S 1.78 mm) when you should have used a -903 (X/S 1.63mm), you'll shear the o-ring. Either trying to get the brass tool out of the bore, or when you first insert the nipple of the inflator.
Most US and European standard connectors use an AS568 2-011. Many imports seem to use 3-903. Learned the hard way.
 
Absolutely those 011s far too fat for most stuff I've got, too much pfooffing to install
The skinny ones, no lube perfectly pokeable with my knitting needle, and other thing
You poke the oring in the crevice lock it in then run the knitting needle around, poof!

And you don't have to fight the tool that you paid money for, to use once a year, out
 
I have not done one for a while but I'm fairly certain all of mine were .011 and that would include mostly older equipment. I generally stab the old O-ring with a large sewing needle and pry it out, clean the inside with silicone greease on a Q-Tip, and very carefully insert the new O-ring (that has been greased) a little at a time until it slips into the slot. A bright light and my Opti-Visor are essential. If I seen any old, rotted rubber in there I will also clean it out with some alcohol on a Q-Tip before greasing it.
 
Some O-rings are easier than others to work with, not sure why.
Durometer, or hardness. Soft o-rings seal better, but aren't as resilient to abuse. They are great for cameras, but please change them often. Harder seals are awesome for high abuse situations, like inflator seals. Just keep them clean and avoid a lot of grease which attracts dirt that will cut them up. The only place I overpack with grease is my SPG. All others get trace, or no grease.

No grease: None, nada, and squat. I might use a bit of nose or hair grease to get it in, but nothing else.​
Trace: A tiniest of a touch on your clean fingertip and work it in. You can't see any white.​
Overpack: A dab right on that barrel, worked around, and I can see some white. A dab, not a glob. don't overtighten the gland nut.​

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011 o-rings from McMaster Carr:

1736799976782.png
 

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