Removing Twinjet strap hardware

[aa777888]

Rather than reinvent the wheel I figure a few of you have done this: what's the best way to remove the stock fin strap hardware on a set of Twinjets (to prep them for spring straps)?

A quick look shows what appears to be pin that is either pushed through or formed like a rivet. Can this pin be pushed back through very easily, or does it need to be cut off like a rivet?

I'd like to do as little damage as possible in order to facilitate returning to the stock setup.

Thanks!

 

[The Chairman]

It's been so long... I think I cut the heads off. Hoever the springs that I got for regular Jet Fins were WAY too short... talk about mondo foot cramps! I got 1/2" spring stock from McMaster Carr and made my own. I owe someone an E-mail about this if I ever get a pic of them.

 

[divereh]

push out pins and remove them to find out you can't put spring straps on them

 

[aa777888]

push out pins and remove them to find out you can't put spring straps on them

Uh, why not? The formula seems pretty easy:

2 springs, McMaster-Carr p/n 3932K24 or equiv. (exact length required may change part no.)
2 vinyl end caps, McMaster-Carr p/n 9754K48 or equiv.
2 D-rings, p/n TBD
2 pieces of random clear vinyl tubing
Some random parachute cord or cave line.

Should work fine.

So we've got one vote for cut-off, and one for push-out. Any others?

 

[The Chairman]

Actually, I think they did push out now that he mentioned it. It was a LONG time ago when the splits first came out. I do remember that one of the plastic buckles had partially broken already, and I was glad that I hadn't lost the fin.

McMaster Carr also sells stainless wire and I used 1/2" stainless bolts to secure the springs. The spring stock screws right on to the bolt side. I drilled a hole for the wire from one flat to the other side and then ground the other four flats down so I had a rectangle shaped head (not a hexagon). It works great and makes the spring length adjustable.

 

[aa777888]

McMaster Carr also sells stainless wire and I used 1/2" stainless bolts to secure the springs. The spring stock screws right on to the bolt side. I drilled a hole for the wire from one flat to the other side and then ground the other four flats down so I had a rectangle shaped head (not a hexagon). It works great and makes the spring length adjustable.

Hmmm, interesting. So the .062 spring wire will sit right in the threads of the bolt? Do you remember what thread pitch the bolt was? The bolt head can probably be cross drilled for a D-ring as well, I've done that before for other projects.

Why did you grind the bolt head down, so it would lie flush against the fin?

It would be nice to find a pin-shackle to do the fin attachment part, but all the 1" shackles I've found have 0.5" thick pins, which is a bit much!