Regulator Testing Equipment

[Lorenzoid]

. . .

PS: I am planning to buy the Regulator Saavy book with the tools at one go to save on shipping, so I have not read the book yet. But I'd like to work out all the tools I will be needing at one go, appreciate any help I can get.

Understand that Regulator Savvy is much more about how regs are constructed and operate than about how to service them. The goal of the book is to give reg technicians a deeper understanding of the underlying principles, to help them to go beyond just following a service manual by rote.

 

[herman]

AWAP, on spark plugs I would agree because most use a crush gasket that needs to be deformed under pressure to seal and hence a need for a specific torque. On these that don't use a washer, the seal is basically metal pressed against metal which needs a specific about of torque to form. It also keeps a gorilla tech from stripping the threads out a the heads. Since scuba regs do not use gaskets or crush fits in any pressure related parts, there is no need for a specifc torque other than to prevent damage due to excessive torque.....or maybe lawyers.

 

[KeithG]

AWAP, on spark plugs I would agree because most use a crush gasket that needs to be deformed under pressure to seal and hence a need for a specific torque. On these that don't use a washer, the seal is basically metal pressed against metal which needs a specific about of torque to form. It also keeps a gorilla tech from stripping the threads out a the heads. Since scuba regs do not use gaskets or crush fits in any pressure related parts, there is no need for a specifc torque other than to prevent damage due to excessive torque.....or maybe lawyers.

Anyone know how hard to torque a lawyer?

 

[ams511]

I read through the service manual for my regs, it seems I need a source of clean filtered air of varying pressures to test my regs after servicing. Bad news is it says to start the test with 300PSI, then ramp it up to 3000PSI.

For someone who lives in an apartment with a limited budget, what kind of equipment can I purchase from scubatools to allow me to do this, along with a fresh cylinder of air filled to 3000PSI?

I am thinking it may be possible to just turn on the valve on the tank very slowly. Will this work well enough?

Also, what is the function of this tool?

https://www.scubatools.com/p-540-dual-drive-inline-adjusting-tool.aspx

Thanks.

PS: I am planning to buy the Regulator Saavy book with the tools at one go to save on shipping, so I have not read the book yet. But I'd like to work out all the tools I will be needing at one go, appreciate any help I can get.

A few things:

1) The Harlow book is better than the Reg Savvy for a DIY person.
2) I use an almost empty tank for the low pressure test and a full tank for the high pressure test. I think the Harlow book has instructions for building some sort of variable pressure adjuster but he does not give specific instructions on where to find the parts.
3) Scubatools is good for regulator specific tools BUT is very pricey for general tools.
4) Recommended tools I am sure others will comment / criticize but you will at least get an idea.

For second stages:
a) inline adjusting tool - buy from Dive Gear Express
b) magnehelic - buy from eBay
c) adapter for Magnehelic - buy from Scubatools or make yourself

Edit: As Herman mentioned the above tools are nice but not really needed

d) any special tools needed for your brand of second stage - buy from Scubatools

For First Stages:
a) Torque wrench - Amazon has the same wrench as Scubatools for $40 cheaper. I have seen them at other sites cheaper than Amazon. This may not be needed.
You could also use two of the Park tools balance types which may be cheaper.
b) Ultrasonic cleaner - People like the Harbor Freight model. - Do not forget the 20% off coupon

Edit: Some will say that neither of the above is needed.

c) special tools for your first stage - Scubatools or other places depending on the tool

Other things:
Lube
hex keys
wrenches
pliers
screw drivers
pin spanners
usually the repair manual will tell you what tools are needed.

---------- Post added April 17th, 2014 at 09:22 AM ----------

What torque wrench do you use with reg rebuilds? The one on Scubatools is quite expensive (well it is for someone who will rebuild a reg or two a year).

It is cheaper on Amazon. I have seen it on other sites for as low as around $120.

 

[Jim Lapenta]

I have a student doing the HOG class now that bought the Scubatools torque wrench on Amazon. I have been using a $40.00 craftsman microtorque that our maintenance supervisor at work checked for me. He has a set up to calibrate torque wrenches as the machines we have in the shop do require specific torques and in some cases if the bolts are not done to spec bad things happen.

There are three places where the torque wrench is critical on the HOG D-1's. The turret bolt, the DIN housing, and the DIN retainer.

As for cleaning the ultrasonic is nice but not necessary. I do like mine though. I like the Scubatools inline tool better than the DGX one. It is just better made when compared side by side. The DGX one will work. What I really like that they have is the deluxe IP gauge with the pressure relief for 18 bucks.

Magnahelics are cheap and easy to find. But again there are alternatives. As part of the course I after we did the mag thing I showed him how to check it using a half a sink of water. Results were dang near the same. You can also make one with a board, clear tubing, a couple clamps or zip ties, and a ruler. The sink though works very well in the field. Or even a pan of water that the second will fit into comfortably.

As for air supply this is when it's nice to have a few (like over a dozen) tanks. It is an easy matter to set up a line with 300-500 psi,1500- 1700, and a 3000 psi tank. When I service a reg I start with the lowest and work my way up. Transfill whips are nice to have for this as well. But it can be done with one at 400 or so and a full or nearly full. Patience is the key to all of this.

 

[WhiteSands]

Just had an idea! Could I use a pony bottle like the H20 Odyssey for regulator testing?

Gear / Accessories | Scuba Diving

The pros: I can top up this tank using a regular scuba tank whenever I go diving.
The cons: The attachment for the 2nd stage is a plug in type connector, not the usual screw on connector. However it might be possible to fashion an adapter to make it work.

If this bottle is usable how what size bottle will I need? They have 4cf and 6cf models.

I believe Zeagle also has a similar product.

Thanks!

 

[herman]

You could possibly get by servicing the second stage with one but you still need some source of gas to test you first stage. Your best bet is to find a used steel 72. They are common, fairly inexpensive and unless abused even very old ones will easily pass hydro. Buying an old 72 and the cost of hydro/vip/fill will be less than the cost of one service to one reg. Now you have a good source of air to service your regs with, a way to test your regs before a dive and if you want a perfectly good tank to dive with. Used aluminum tanks are also acceptable but usually cost more unless they are pre 1990, then they may cost you less but they can be difficult/impossible to get filled.

 

[Jim Lapenta]

Transfill whip.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[scorman]

The tools you have linked to is a second stage adjustment tool. It is a "nice to have" for the DIY tech. Without one you will have to adjust, install hose, test, remove hose, adjust again, replace hose and test (repeat as necessary) a second stage until you get it right. With a little practice you can usually get it done in 2 or 3 passes.

Herman, by "test" do you simply mean breathe thru the second stage...ie no tools or gauge, make sure no free flow?
I have done this and find the adjustment zone is +/- 1/4 turn and I set to middle.

Can you relate how much the IP typically varies from 3000psi down to 300psi? Presume that nominal is 140psi going to second stage.
Next obvious qs is why do you need a full tank to set the second stage if the first stage keeps the IP below 160psi, and the mechanism is such that the balanced effect is such that the air draw would be most problematic at the lowest IP you could see, not the highest? I would think that 300psi tank pressure would be most important in setting the 2nd.

All comments appreciated,
Stew

 

[oldschoolto]

I watched a very experience boat mechanic do a tune-up one time and asked him why he did not use a torque wrench when installing spark plugs (aluminum head). He said he did not need one. When I got home, I got out my torque wrench and found plugs torqued anywhere from about 12 ft-lb to 24 ft-lb. The spec was 17 ft-lb. I don't have a lot of faith in feel.

That said, when working on regulators, you should ask yourself why there is a torque spec. On hoses and plugs, there is a spec of about 45 in-lb. That is just tight enough to not come loose and it is easy (and good practice) to check by hand. I don't worry about those. I go finger tight and then 1/8th to 1/4th turn depending on the age of the o-ring (new ones take a bit more). But I do put a torque wrench on the "Jesus nut" that holds the turret, if your reg has one. My Scubapro Mk5s have a fairly light spec of 35 to 45 in-lb and that connection is inaccessible when done. Newer regs are a bit heavier, like 70 to 80 in-lb so may not be as critical. I also torque the yoke/din retainer. For Scubapro, the spec is higher than most at 22 ft-lb (or 23 to 27 depending on where you look). That is much more than needed to make the seal but that is a connection that can be moved when you (or the boat mate) handle your set-up. I suspect that a good hose lift may have contributed to the Scubapro recall on the Mk20 that was blamed on over-torquing of the yoke nut. Since sliding friction is less than static friction, it is easier to get that connection moving at lower torque setting than higher. BTW, many Mk10s have the same yoke retainer as was involved in the Mk20 recall.

So he was within 3 ft lbs... Sounds really close to me...