Regulator Replacement Suggestions (frequent diver)

[Nemrod]

As opposed to soaking I prefer actively washing as I described. I can wash and clean a regulator in a few minutes post dive day. Soaking, not sure what that means but to me implies hours, not a swish.

 

[scubadojo]

Regarding the second stage rinsing, which seems to be our issue. In the past we rinsed in the rinse tank, being sure to slosh them about.

Our local Atomic dealer (who services them) indicated that with these regs, keeping them on an air supply and rinsing them while under pressure was better due to the uniqueness of the Atomics. I have never read that and while its possible to do this, it’s also a PITB to do almost daily while also have the tank positioned right - beside the rinse area.

As for the water, the water on island is desalinated and while great to drink, I’m not sure of long term issues with gear. Being a “Divers Paradise” I can’t imagine its too bad given the amount of gear locally rinsed.

I think the water you use to rinse your reg contributes to the cause.

IMO rinse tank for dive center isn't the cleanest water. Diver rinse gear throuhgout the day and I find cleaner water in the morning.
Seat Saver is a great design from AA. and I agree you should keep the B2.

Still if you think maintaining AA regs a PITB, just change the second stage. Or get Scubapro MK25/S620Ti for similar construction and performance, less the seat saver.

 

[davehicks]

Soaking a pressurized regulator set is always better, safer, and more bulletproof. To make it easier and more practical, consider using a small pony bottle that you can keep at your rinse station.

 

[happy-diver]

Use hot water and wash your troubles away, actively.

 

[rsingler]

While I do love the B2. It also requires more cleaning/maintenance than maybe others

Me, I NEVER soak my Atomic seconds pressurized.
I actively rinse them out in the sink. Even if you're not comfortable removing face cover and diaphragm, you can get a good flush under a hot faucet.
Then let 'em soak overnight in the basin (with the first stage up on the counter) and hang them from a towel ring in the morning; first stage up and second stage down.

The same open valve that let water go up the hose six inches or so, lets water run right back down and out the valve while the reg set is hanging.

After one heavy rinse, an evening of benign neglect in the sink followed by another day of benign neglect on the towel ring does just fine. Diffusion will take care of the salt build-up mentioned in your post #7.

 

[Diver-6873]

I think the water you use to rinse your reg contributes to the cause.

IMO rinse tank for dive center isn't the cleanest water. Diver rinse gear throuhgout the day and I find cleaner water in the morning.
Seat Saver is a great design from AA. and I agree you should keep the B2.

Still if you think maintaining AA regs a PITB, just change the second stage. Or get Scubapro MK25/S620Ti for similar construction and performance, less the seat saver.

Rinse tanks are our own, at our home, and filled fresh each diving day. I agree that by the EoD, many dive shop rinse tanks are pretty bad.

 

[Diver-6873]

Soaking a pressurized regulator set is always better, safer, and more bulletproof. To make it easier and more practical, consider using a small pony bottle that you can keep at your rinse station.

I did think about mounting a pony at the rinse tank.

It’s interesting that you are the first to mention it always being better to rinse a pressurized Reg. Hmmmmm

 

[Diver-6873]

Use hot water and wash your troubles away, actively.

For that - all we need to do is to fill the rinse sink before we head out for dives. A few hours under the sun and the water is bath water temp.

 

[davehicks]

I did think about mounting a pony at the rinse tank.

It’s interesting that you are the first to mention it always being better to rinse a pressurized Reg. Hmmmmm

I've seen many a flooded 1st stage due to poor soaking. A good number of the "rinse caps" on 1st stages are not very good at their job. They leak, are not put on properly, or just forgotten. I don't always soak my regs, sometimes I can only rinse them, or dunk the 2nds. But I make a point of never soaking my 1st stages unless pressurized. A home depot type bucket and an inverted pony bottle work great.

 

[Pearlman]

While I try to soak my regs back at home immediately after a trip using RO purified drinking water (low salt and mineral content), I am wondering if the common washing machine drum descaler powders and solutions are suitable to make the water salt free? The tap water in my locality comes from a borewell with high salt water content that leaves ugly marks on dried kitchen vessels so that is out of the question.

Common ingredients in descalers include - Sulfamic Acid, Sodium Sulfate, Adipic Acid. Other home made options seem to be citric acid powder (supposedly helps in corrosion protection?), baking soda and white vinegar (does it strips off the electroplating on brass 1st stages?)… hot water seems to be a good idea too as posted above. Then there is also the dishwasher rinse-aid solution that leave your glassware sparkling and free from salt/mineral stains … is that safe to add to reg-water?

I got a fish tank pump to circulate water around my dunked regs but the lack of a common salt removal solution that is deemed safe is what I am waiting for.

FYI, I also risked dunking Scubapro DIN 1st stages in the water with just the factory dust caps on and watched for bubbles the first few minutes and there were none. After than I dived 6 months later with no apparent issues with my regs so they seem to work in providing a water-tight seal…

PS: Many of the packaged drinking water bottled come with added mineral content so even that may not be the best option.