Regs Breathing Wet

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Hello folks --

I've tried the search function to see if anyone has asked the question and couldn't find anything. But for your mechanical people out there I was wondering what makes
a regulator breath wet? Obviously, if you're getting a mouthful of water it would be cause for concern -- but otherwise, is it anything to worry about?
Thanks in advance for any info.

Best regards
 
LittleObie:
Hello folks --

I've tried the search function to see if anyone has asked the question and couldn't find anything. But for your mechanical people out there I was wondering what makes
a regulator breath wet? Obviously, if you're getting a mouthful of water it would be cause for concern -- but otherwise, is it anything to worry about?
Thanks in advance for any info.

Best regards

Hello LittleObie,

Personally, I think a wet breathing regulator is a heath hazard.

First and easiest to check is the mouthpiece. Any cracks or splits? Does the fastening device hold it in place securely? Next, to check the exhaust valves and diaphragm, put an air tight dust cap over the 1st stage inlet or hook the 1st stage up to a tank with the air off. Now, breath in moderately hard. If air is entering the 2nd stage the most probable cause is something under the exhaust valve. Take off the exhaust tee and have a look. Check for any foreign objects or wrinkles. If the exhaust valve is old or just not sealing it is simple to replace. If none of the above is the problem, the next most probable cause is the second stage diaphragm. Check for any pin holes or tears and proper installation. If still no help, examine the body of the 2nd stage for any cracks etc. Is the point where the inlet tube enters the body snug? Are there o-rings on the inlet tube that need to be replaced? If all this checks out ok stop swimming upside down :-)

Hope this helps, if not say so and one of the gurus will sort it out I'm sure.

couv
 
Doing a vaccuum check as outlined above by trying to breath off your reg with the dust cap in place is a very good check to make prior to every dive.

You should not be able to get any air through the second stage at all. A very very small amount of air is probably not worth delaying a recreatiopnal dive for but warrants checking out later - and it may just be due to a less than perfectly sealing dust cap. A noticeable amount of air is sufficient reason to postpone the dive until you find the source of the leak.

Cracked mouthpieces are a common source of leaks, and due to their location in what amounts to a venturi tube, water is drawn in amounts disproportionately greater than what you would expect from the size of the crack.

A pinhole in a diaphragm will cause areg to breath wet and a tear will cause it to breathe extremely wet. Tears are easy to spot once you remove the purge cover, but pin holes will require you to stretch the diaphragm slightly in a radial manner as you move around the diaphragm while holding it between you and a light source. A hole will be indicated by the pin hole sized light shining through the diaphragm.

The downside to this test is that it requires diaphragm removal and improper seating of the diaphragm is another potential source of a leak.

Plastic second stages have a bad habit of cracking with age, use, impact damage, or improper excessive tightening of the inlet fitting during an annual service. A crack will often initially make itself known by wet breathing but they almost always grow and a monor leak at the beginning of a dive can literally be a full blown flood by the end of the dive. Since these leaks are large, and often sudden they can result in the diver aspirating a significant amount of water with a resulting gag/cough/inhale cycle starting that can make it very hard to even switch to the octo. Careful visual inspection of the case will usually be adequate to find a case crack. Look most carefully around the inlet fitting and around any other area of the case with holes or potential stress risers in it. Often, you will see dried salt in or around the crack before you will see the crack. Case cracks along with torn diaphragms, are the type of leaks that can potentially be dangerous underwater and are the ones that would prompt me to cancel a dive.

There are anywhere from 1 to 4 o-rings sealing various openings in the second stage case and they are also a potential source of leaks. In most cases however you'll probably want a tech to change them for you. On regs so equipped, a loose flow vane adjustment knob, usually means a hardened or worn o-ring that is probably leaking. Otherwise diagnosing them as a problem, outside of an annual service, is usually a case of checking everything else and still not finding the leak.
 
If you get water from the first stage you need to have it serviced right away. That should never ever happen.

I would also like to add that even a perfectly serviced second stage may be wet when inverted. See the recent Diver piece where they test 15 regs at depth.


Håkan
 
Wow!
Thanks everyone for the information. It is so nice to have a place where I can turn to and get pointed in the right direction.
Take care.
 
The technical reasons listed in the posts above are probably where the problem is, so I won't rehash...

One often overlooked problem is that you are gripping the mouthpiece too loosely. If you are relaxed in the water you may get some leaks around your lips. When the hose tugs the second stage to an odd angle such as when you turn your head you can easily get some water in, of course in that example you can feel the reg coming loose in your mouth. When you are swimming normally you might not connect the water coming in with a too loose grip on the mouthpiece. Fortunately the test for this one is really easy, just get a good grip on the mouthpiece and see if the thing breathes wet, if it still does then you might want to spend some money getting other items replaced. Fortunately this test is free!

Mark Vlahos
 

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