Reefmaster? Snapshots...

[terrydarc]

I've bought a Reefmaster RC from Sierra Trading Post. This to take snapshots (not prize winning National Geographic works of art). This is a cheap camera to document diving with my son in Honduras in a couple weeks. Point and shoot, built-in auto flash, fixed focus and supposedly good for 164' which I will not test voluntarily.

Any tips or reprimands for buying this baby. I've read the owner's manual and am not a newbie to photography, but to underwater? Definitely. Plan to ask the photo shop to boost red and yellow afterwards, take plenty of shots, throw most away and let no one see the rejects. I understand that 25' or so is a limit for puny flash and probably 4-6' for distance to subject. These are my present preconceptions. Any other tips or commments for u/w photos?

 

[socaldiver]

Terrydarc,

I also have a Reefmaster and it does take nice pics for the most part. some could possibly be "award winning".

I would highly recommend gettng the external strobe though. You get a lot of backscatter when you use the camera only with the built in flash.

Enjoy your dives, take lots of memory shots and make sure you post so we can also relish in the undersea world.

 

[Tavi]

I agree with socaldiver, Buy the strobe. I have the same camera and bought the stobe at the recomendation of others on the boards. I'm glad I did. I got some great shots. I also use the Kodak Sea & Sea proccesing. Some of my shots can be seen here.

Looking forward to seeing your pics!

Tavi

 

[joewr]

Terrydarc,

Get close! The closer you get, the better the color and definition will be. You will be very surprised at how small the fish will look and how blue everything will be.

Getting very close will help. The fish will only tolerate you being a certain distance and then they swim away. So, try some objects that are stationary and good looking--like your dive partner. But get close.

In the water things look 25% closer than they actually are and that makes getting "close" a little tricky--visually speaking. If you take a photo of your dive partner, try for a picture of head and shoulders--then back off and take one of his/her whole body. Compare results after developing. You may be surprised at the difference.

Since this is your first attempt at u/w photography, experiment: this is a whole new learning experience.

Joewr

 

[sactomags]

As others have already mentioned, you can get good shots. It takes patience, good buoyancy control and magic (oh well, not really the last one, but you get the idea). I've taken some very good shots -- mistaken as coming from a Nikonos. I usually 200ASA Kodak film, and you are correct to get the developers to "push" specific colors. There are several locally (Sacramento, CA) who are used to doing UW photo development, and once you say "underwater shots" they take it from there.

Also agree you should get the strobe -- it can really make the difference.

You will need to learn what lens to use at what distance. Also, depending on where you dive (I'm out here in California and the waters in Monterey are cool and usually darker), you will learn how to use the ambient light -- especially if you're in, say, Florida, Hawaii, or the Caribbean. I didn't even use my strobe there, and some dives were 80+ feet down.

I just expanded to U/W video, but plan on keeping the Reefmaster for other shots. Plus, the little camera comes out and you can use it above-water.

Be patient and enjoy.

 

[herman]

I can only echo what the rest have said, get close and by all means get the strobe. The internal flash is ok for topside but prob hurts more than helps underwater. It's not just a problem with the Reefmaster but all of that basic type of camera, the internal flash is in the wrong place for use underwater.

 

[socaldiver]

when I first got my Reefmaster I was "centering" my subject matter with the sport viewfinder on top of the camera. I discovered the dreaded parallax!! That is, I was cutting off the top of my subject because of the difference in the lens versus the viewfinder position. To correct this problem I now use the very bottom of the viewfinder to center my pics and have not had a problem since then.

 

[blacknet]

Hello,

An easier method for viewfinding is simply do NOT use them! That's right, just say NO! to viewfinders! Use your arms as guides and you'll never go wrong. You can also see other things in the area that may be better subjects (while looking thru a viewfinder your field of view is seriously limited)

Ed

 

[scubabunny]

If you don't want to drop the money for a strobe, get the 3X lens if you don't already have it. Without the lens, you have to be about 4ft from your subject, which is about how far the flash reaches. But, judging distances underwater is tough and 4 ft looks alot closer than it really is. I've found that the 3X lens (close up lens) helps me adjust to take better pics.

Also, FUJI film is the best film to use if you do get a strobe. It has more "blue" tones to it, so it tends to bring out more vibrant colors underwater...except for skin tones. Kodak has more "red" so it is better for "people" shots underwater.

 

[terrydarc]

Thanks, Scubabunny! I ordered a 3x yesterday morning and am having it delivered express mail to my son's place in California. When I read the closest I could get was 4 feet, I started looking for some way to get closer and in the owner's manual, there were accessories. Know if I had to stand 4' from a wildflower, I might as well not bother. Since many of the most beautiful fish are teeny little suckers, gaining a couple feet in closeness is certainly a great idea.

I still don't understand how that strobe works, but this is a learning experience. I'll try to stay at relatively close to the surface where there's more light. I'm hoping for some halfway decent shots. Will look into the strobe for the next trip.
Terry