Received my new Mares reg, 1st stage is heavy! How does Ti compare?

[Scott L]

And how long does it take before the chrome starts to pit on the 1st stage and is there any way to prevent it? (what causes it? I'll only be warm water reef diving)

Rinse after salt water use and it will never pit...

 

[johnnyscience]

Rinse after salt water use and it will never pit...

Nice, good info for good maitenence.

And I thought the port plugs were removed with a normal wrench and there fore would have a hex bolt like the 2nd stage does.

I didn't realize they were removed via Allen key and it seems in fact I do have all of my port plugs

I feel like a dummy. Or a newbie.

I guess it was a false alarm!

Thanks guys.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

I just received my new Mares Prestige 12 regulator and wasn't aware how heavy the 1st stages really are!

How much lighter are the Titanium 1st stages that some regs are made with? (I doubt I'd ever be able to afford one, just wondering)

I assume the S version of this (the shorter 1st stage) is lighter?

Also, my Mares reg didn't come with any port plugs at all? Should I call LP?

And how long does it take before the chrome starts to pit on the 1st stage and is there any way to prevent it? (what causes it? I'll only be warm water reef diving)

1.) If you think your MR12 is heavy, you should check a true "heavy" first stage.... say an older Mares MR22 (before they shaved off some weight in the current version) .... the Zeagle Flathead VI is heavier..... and I think my newest old reg, a Scubapro Mk5 piston reg is heavier....

2.) Call LP and ask for the port plugs. Edit: I didn't see the picture you posted... as you already discovered, you have all of the port plugs (minus the port that is filled by the LP hose).

3.) I have 20 year old and 30 year old regulators with no loss of chrome. Chrome loss generally starts as a scratch or pinhole that allows salt water to get to the marine brass below the chrome. You don't need to "baby" the reg, but don't drop it onto rocks or drag it across rough, hard surfaces either..... marine brass is relatively "soft", and will scratch easier than you'd think.

On the subject of "soft" brass.... always use the correct-sized tools (try to avoid adjustable crescent wrenches), and do not overtighten hoses and port plugs. The o-rings are what creates the seal, not torque. Think "snug", just tight enough that you cannot remove the hose with your bare hands, and the plugs should just be tightened a slight "smidge" past finger-tight. That's all.

Enjoy your new regulator!!!

Best wishes.

 

[johnnyscience]

What size allen in this? I dont have any, but could pick up a SS one easy id imagine.

I plan on buying a Save a Dive kit soon (not sure which one). But perhaps the one I buy will come with the correct SS Allen wrench I need for this. Two birds, one stone.

 

[Tug]

Nice, good info for good maitenence.

And I thought the port plugs were removed with a normal wrench and there fore would have a hex bolt like the 2nd stage does.

I didn't realize they were removed via Allen key and it seems in fact I do have all of my port plugs

I feel like a dummy. Or a newbie.

I guess it was a false alarm!

Thanks guys.

Judging by the picture it appears you have all the port plugs.

Don't worry about feeling stupid, we were all new divers once. Now get out there and enjoy your new reg!

 

[Fishpie]

Mares always used to include an Allen key in the box....check and see if you have one.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

What size allen in this? I dont have any, but could pick up a SS one easy id imagine.

I plan on buying a Save a Dive kit soon (not sure which one). But perhaps the one I buy will come with the correct SS Allen wrench I need for this. Two birds, one stone.

Some of the Save A Dive kits come with a Swiss-Army-Knife-Like tool that has allen wrenches, an o-ring pick, and open-end wrenchs of various sizes that fit most hose fittings. This is not my 1st choice, but works ok as a "dive bag" tool.

I prefer "real" open end wrenches, and have a few of those multi-Allen Wrench thingies.... and I'm sorry, I just have the correct sizes memorized by their location on the tool, as a result I can't remember what the actual size of the LP and HP plugs (they are two different sizes on your MR12 and on many 1st stages)

Best wishes.

 

[halocline]

Port plugs, both HP and LP, take a 5/32" allen wrench. Unless for some reason the mares plugs are different.

I'm surprised you think the 1st stage is particularly heavy. Didn't you handle a regulator during your OW class? It probably was not much lighter than the one you have now.

Considering you add weight to sink while diving, I would not be too concerned about the weight of your 1st stage. Titanium regulators are for people with too much money on their hands...go ahead, rich divers, flame me.

 

[Tug]

Some of the Save A Dive kits come with a Swiss-Army-Knife-Like tool that has allen wrenches, an o-ring pick, and open-end wrenchs of various sizes that fit most hose fittings. This is not my 1st choice, but works ok as a "dive bag" tool.

I prefer "real" open end wrenches, and have a few of those multi-Allen Wrench thingies.... and I'm sorry, I just have the correct sizes memorized by their location on the tool, as a result I can't remember what the actual size of the LP and HP plugs (they are two different sizes on your MR12 and on many 1st stages)

Best wishes.

Same here, I bough a set of the combination Allen wrench things and keep one in with my save a dive kit. If you don't have an answer by the time I get home in a few hours I'll check and let you know.

 

[diversteve]

First stage weight only matters when you're flying - and that's only after multi-continent flights when a few ounces feels like more on your shoulder...lol. Or if you're trying to hit a lower weight limit on some international flights. I've seen carry-on restrictions as low as 22lbs. on some puddle jumpers. For normal U.S. origin carryons - it won't matter.

For a heavier 1st stage you can slightly decrease the weight you carry while diving - but it's probably not a 1lb difference with any newer 1st stage. Nobody (I know) tunes their weighting to ounces.

Mares advertises the MR12 as:

Performance and reliability in a new compact and light first stage

So I doubt there's much difference between it and a TI 1st stage. The bigger difference with TI is that it makes the chrome/brass pitting/corrosion problem unlikely. Most people who post negatively about TI don't get that. Not to alarm you but internal brass parts also corrode during normal use unless properly maintained.

The last time I had my service done - after 2 years - the Atomic tech said the only reason he changed everything was because he had it apart already. And I'm not exactly what you'd call diligent on post-dive cleaning. Several times that reg has left the rinse tank after 30 seconds and flown back in my bag the next day. It's also taken an end-over off the back of a tailgate with tank/bc/14lbs. attached - and landed on a curb squarely on the yoke. After careful inspection, I dusted it off and went diving...

For comparison, weigh your complete reg when you've got it all assembled - mine weighs 1.690 lbs. total - T2 1st stage, T2 second, Z1 octo and ScubaPro mini gauges - standard hoses included.

2nd stage weight matters more as the heavier stages can lead to more jaw fatigue. That's where TI/Poly makes a difference.

This dive tool kit probably has what you need: Diver's Tool Kit with Zippered Pouch

Normal save a dive kits are o-rings, fin straps, buckles, tie-wraps etc:
Save A Dive Kit discounts on sale Cetecea