Really Late - Ek Balam and Chicken Itza Review

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cobra269

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Location
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Forgot to post from my 2 day trip from last May, Thought it might answer some questions.

Left our rental car at 6:16 am at ISIS shop on Tues for a 2 day trip to see the ruins. She told us just to leave it unlocked with the keys under the floor mat since she wasn’t opened. A short walk to the ferr yand was on the 7 am ferry on the Mexico Water Jet to Play del Carmen. (Cost 155pesos pp, 1 way). Tried to sell us a round trip but knew better. Took the opportunity to change a 100 peso note into change. Your bags will be checked and you will be given a ticket. Once docked your bags will be off loaded behinda 3 ft fence. Point out your bag to a crew member and give him your ticket and you will get your bag. Since it was early morning sat top side which is on the stern of the ship. Hard fiberglass benches. Lots of diesel smell from the engines until underway. Ship has a small concession stand inside. A 40 min ride– arrived at 7:45. Smooth crossing.

Arranged by internet and was met by a member of ISIS car rental at Senior Frogs at Playadel Carmen. Had looked at Easy Way being cheaper but decided to stick with ISIS. Took us to the shop (between 10th and 15th on calle4) and after filling out all the paper work were on our way at 8:10. 4 door VW stick with A/C cost $45 per day with all insurance. If you don’t get A/C you will be sorry. Tank was ¼ full so stopped for gas. Stopped at the first gas station after turning onto 307 from Calle 2. Was on the right and not very far. DON’T GET GAS HERE Thought I did all the right things. Got out to make sure meter was set at zero. Attendant put his hand behind the front panel which was loose before pumping. Took 350 pesos of gas. Complained but nothing I could do. After getting back to Cozumel I asked Margarita about it. Said with ¼ of a tank I was most likely overcharged a little over $5 US. Lesson learned. On our way at 8:20am.

Headed forTulum. Hit the turn off for Coba at 9:10 (which is well marked) on the 180 freehighway and stopped at the OXXO on the left for some water. A tour van was there with passengers inside also getting water and beer. 4 employees in the store with only 1 working a register. Took 10 mins to get some water. Should of stopped at the grocery store just up the road on the left as someone had recommended. At 9:47 am was at the circle with turn offs to Coba, Cancun and Chemax or Valladolid, can’t remember. (well marked).
Took the bypassaround Valladolid and then the right turn to Ek Balam. Wasn’t quite sure we were going the right way until we passed the toll hwy. Took a left before entering Ek Balam and drove through the Mayan Village. School was in sessionand all the kids were walking around in their uniforms. A couple of store fronts selling blankets etc. Finally entered Ek Balam at 11:20 am. Watch out for the road once you pass the entry sign – huge potholes everywhere.

Ek Balam: Not crowded and of course had 1 the kid offer to watch my car while we were inside. I declined. There was 1 small tour bus, 2 vans and 4 cars in the parking lot. Knew we were in for it at the visitor center seeing everyone who had just come out dripping wet. There is a concession stand but a coke will cost you $3 US if I remember correctly. Entry fee was 58 pesos pp. We had read up on the ruins before leaving so didn’t hire a guide. Drank water before we left the car, put on our hats and sunglasses and took a 2 ltr bottle in with us. A good call. Bugs were not an issue but it was sure hot.There was a man dressed up like a Mayan warrior that you can have your picture taken with for tips. Spoke great English. You walk down a real rocky dirt trail before reaching the ruins, be careful. The site is small and didn’t take long walking around and looking at everything. Yes you could climb everything. Beware the stairs are steep and at times angle away from the ruins. Spent about1 hr here. More than enough time to see everything. I did give the kid somepesos upon leaving.

Left EkBalam and headed toward the Mayaland Resort where we were staying. Got back onthe bypass. The road between Valladolid and Piste is narrow with a few small towns. Watch out for the topes around towns. Kids would be selling things as you slowed down for the topes and sometimes almost step out in front of your car. Also passed all the large shops that the tour buses stop at. We had trouble locating the Mayaland Resort. Made the turn into Chicken Itza but never saw the turn in for the Mayaland, so got back on the Hwy 180 and ended up in Piste. Turned around after driving through the town. Figured what the heck we are here. Also picked up some snacks, beer, water and something to eat in the morning at an OXXO store. On the way back there was a large resort sign (forget the name but the only one on the road), it was the back entrance into the Mayaland as we found out.

MayalandResort: Had booked through Orbitz and since I had a $50 voucher, the room cost us only $38.29 for the night. Once we arrived in the rear parking lot someone radioed and a golf card came and picked us up. Nothing to do but get the key at check in and were driven to our Bungalow. Asked the driver to fill up my coolerwith ice. He left and came back with the cooler full. Tipped him $5 for this service. The resort is really spread out. Didn’t find out until later that the only place to get ice was at the bar in the main building.
Was about 2:30 pm and we were hungry so went to the large buffet they had. Seems they make a lot of their money from tour buses stopping here to eat. Community tables that sit 8. Cost 150 pesos each plus drinks. Food was good but thought the price was high. Missed the dancers but woman all dress up in their local costumes were standing by the entrance looking for donations. Didn’t need dinner after this lunch.

The wholeresort is beautiful with peacocks walking around and lots of birds. Like others have said, like being in a jungle. The room was great with twin beds, TV, A/Cthat cooled the room down okay, mini frig filled with drinks, etc for an extracharge (wasn’t cold), small coffee maker and a large bathroom with an enormous tub/shower that needed some work. Everything negative could easily be overlook because of the surroundings.

Rested the rest of the afternoon and went to the bar for a couple of drinks at sunset. Don’tremember the cost of drinks. We were the only ones there all night, in fact only counted 11 cars total in both parking lots. The place was empty. While sitting on the bar terrace outside did see people walking to the light show. Flashlights needed. Talk to them the next morning and they said it was a waste of time. Research pays off again. Asked the bartender about getting some ice when leaving. Told me I had to walk all the way back to my room for the icebucket. When he saw I was leaving a tip he found a bag and filled it with ice. I woke early to the birds and walked around the next morning. Checked out the breakfast. 155 pesos pp to order off of the menu, think the centennial breakfast was 110 pesos. We just ate the things we picked up in Piste the day before since nether wanted a large breakfast before visiting the ruins.

ChickenItza: We entered from the resorts back gate as soon as it opened – 8 am, they were a few minutes late (115 pesos pp). Once again had read up on it so didn’t hire a guide. Was thinking about splitting the cost with others but only one other couple was there and they didn’t speak English. So $60 US for 2 hrs was too steep for us. We basically had the whole place to ourselves. Couldn’t have been more than 20 people there our first hr. Even the vendors were just arriving. The whole time only had 1 man try and sell us items. He was walking around and didn’t have a table. We walked to the main entrance to see the shops there. Only a few opened this early. Showed the gate keeper our tickets upon leaving the main entrance and back into the park. It is a beautiful site and really enjoyed seeing it all. A littleover 2 hrs and we had seen enough. When we left the vendors still hadn’t finished setting up and just a few more people had arrived. They were too busy getting their tables ready to have any interest in us but some away from the entrance took time to tell us about what we were looking at. Left before the heat and bugs were not an issue.

We made it back to our room, rested and showered. Checked out and headed back to PDC. Between Chicken Itza and Valladoid we stop counting at 30 tour buses. Lots of tour vans also. Passed more once past Valladoid. So glad we got in and out early. Followed the same route back. Did make one stop in a small town between Coba and Tulum for my GF to pick up some items at a road side store. While she was shopping I crossed the street and picked up some snacks from a very very small store front. Knew all was fresh since there was a truck making a delivery to them. Must have been real slow since the vendor couldn’t break her $20 US bill or my 100 peso note without leaving looking for change. Lucky I had some change. So she saved 8 pesos. She was amaze to see their living conditions up close. In a back room a man in a hammock with 2 small kids laughing while watching a small colored TV. Also another 2 kids playing a board game while chickens were running under foot on dirt floors.

Dropped the car off at ISIS PDC. Whole trip took less than ¾ th of a tank of gas. Had to walk back to the ferry but really a short walk and besides you get to see some of PDC. We were in a hurry since we wanted to make the 3 pm ferry. Tickets are purchased just outside the ferry terminal on the left in a small white booth. Same ferry company and decided to sit inside in the A/C. Blue seats were comfortable.We sat at the rear of the ship. A little rough but not bad. Again a 40 minride, a short walk to ISIS where our car was waiting and on our way.
This was the first time my GF had ever been out of the US. Wanted her to experience how others live outside the US. I think I achieved this goal. In fact upon returning she told her daughter (20) all about it and how fortunate they are.

Notes:
1: Had purchased all the needed maps from MapChick’s before hand. Made the driving a whole lot easier not counting the peace of mind.
2: The travel time from Chicken Itza to PDC following the speed limits much of the way took 3:10 min.
3: Hit 2 road blocks each way and in the same spot. One police and the other military. They seemed to be stopping only locals. Waved us through both coming and going. Both located after Coba.
4: Watch the speed signs. It looks like when they put up a new ones they leave the old ones up. Numerous times you would see 3 signs at once. Example 60 KPH then 100 KPH and finally 40 KPH, all within 200yards. Mostly between Tulum and PDC.
5: Road were all in good condition and had no problems and well marked. Topes were only an issue around towns and usually well marked. If you follow the speedlimits – no problems at all.
6. All the roads except between Valladoid and Chicken Itza were wide enough for you to move over for passing cars, etc., which you will experience more than once.
7. Very little traffic between Tulum and Valladoid. Especially on the return trip. We were both amazed and wondered what the living conditions were like seeing scooters and cars out in the middle of nowhere pull off the Hwy onto a dirt road that disappeared into the jungle only marked by a 2 liter bottle or pieceof colored cloth and once an old tire.
 
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Excellent report and great memory. I made the trip to Ek Balam but the way you did it to see C. Itza was well planned.
 
Thanks. Hehe, you missed the backgate turn to Mayaland huh. :laughing: I knew to watch for it, was navigating while my bud drove, but when I told him to turn - he thought we should follow the signs to Chichen Itza! I wanted to beat him, but he turned. We took a different time table, arrived in time for dinner and enjoyed it very much, as well as the breakfast. Our room was in the main building, and we thought it was very nice - love the way they have saved the old building and improved it with modern comforts, but the bungalows looked nice too. You had a good rate. :thumb:

I would normally suggest more time for each of the ruin sites, but sounds like you enjoyed them enough.
 
Nice reports but I really think you missed a great deal at both ruins by not hiring the local guide. I was amazed at the information we got for each structure on the site at CI, and I am an art historian and have read numerous books about the Maya. I thought I knew it all but wanted to have the guide just in case they had some interesting stories to share. Even the sound demos he did for us amazed me. If you don't know what I am talking about, then .... Our guide discussed the legends and rumors also, then gave his personal opinion. It was fun to discuss these ideas with someone familiar with them, too. We both came away from the tour with a new sense of the culture and what it must have been like to live there. IMHO, everyone should hire a guide.

Also... the MapChick's map... gotta have it for any driving around in PDC, or up to any of the ruins. It just makes travel so much easier. All the gas stations are marked, restaurants on the ways are marked, tips about what to avoid.. another great investment before visiting the area!

robin
 
Great report. Very detailed.

I've been wanting to make that exact trip the past few times in Coz or PDC, but can't talk my wife in to it. I think if we go down for more than a week she would be interested. I'll show her this post.

Thanks.
PH
 
Great report. Very detailed.

I've been wanting to make that exact trip the past few times in Coz or PDC, but can't talk my wife in to it. I think if we go down for more than a week she would be interested. I'll show her this post.

Thanks.
PH
If you want to stay at one of the hotels at the back entrance and tour Chichen Itza before the buses arrive and before it gets hot, the turn is not well marked - which is why he missed it. Driving out from Valladoldid, there will be a curve to the right as you near the site, with a side road left...

a.jpgb.jpg Google maps will show the 3 hotels on that road. This link might work: mayaland chichen itza hotel - Google Maps Some of the Piste hotels claim to be a short walk from the ruins, which is simply wrong unless you like walking 2 or 3 miles before walking all over the site. :silly:

Getting from there to Ek Balam, we went on to Piste, cut over to the toll road, then east to the exit shown here. The rental cars do not have compasses so taking yours off of your reg or a cheap hiking compass is probably a good idea...

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