Trip Report Raja Ampat-Cove Eco-February 2025

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Living4Experiences

I Love Sharks
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Messages
1,062
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Location
Tigard, Oregon
# of dives
500 - 999
About Me. I am on a two-month dive trip to four countries, flying with nine airlines. I’m a solo traveler with 600+ dives, and this is an independently planned trip with the help of Bluewater Travel for dive and stay package pricing. In order of travel by country: Indonesia (Raja Ampat), Philippines (Puerto Galera), Western Australia (Exmouth/Ningaloo & Perth), and Fiji (Viti Levu). In Raja Ampat, my stays were one week at Cove Eco (Yeben Island), one week at Raja Ampat Dive Lodge (Mansuar Island), and one week on White Manta liveaboard round trip from Sorong.

For context of geography, Yeben Island was the farthest south from Sorong, requiring about 4 hours of ferry and boat rides. Yeben is about a 30-40 minute ride to the premium location of Melissa's Garden. My request was for diving in the south as much as possible because of the bleaching in the north. Between Yeben and Mansuar is about a one-hour boat transfer. And from Mansuar to Sorong is about 1 hour, 45 minutes boat transfer.

My trip reports tend to be very detailed. This part of the world is complicated to travel to and through, so I hope that sharing my experience may help others. Please feel free to ask questions, however, kindly refrain from judgments or comments on how you would have done this or that.

This is my second time to Raja Ampat within 14 months. There was a tragic diver death on my last trip in December 2023, so the trip was interrupted and I missed out on a lot of diving in RA. Here’s the link to that trip report.

Getting There. Air travel can be miserable and challenging, so to stay rested and keep my sanity, I break up these long-haul flights with overnight stays. I used miles and points to fly business class for all the international connections. From Portland, Oregon, I flew on for a 2-hour flight and connected in San Francisco. Here I stayed overnight. Then I flew for 11 hours on Japan Airlines to HND (Haneda, Japan), took the Limousine Bus for a 2-hour ride for $25 USD from HND to NRT (Narita, Japan). With an 18-hour layover, I spent the night in Narita. The flight to CGK (Jakarta) was 8 hours, then a layover for 4 hours and caught the 12:10 a.m. flight on Garuda to SOQ (Sorong), a 4-hour flight. I stayed 2 nights in Sorong before being picked up by Cove Eco Resort to be taken to the ferry for a 2-hour ride to Waisai then transferred to CE’s boat for another 1 hour and 45 minute ride to the resort. I left the U.S. on February 18th and arrived in Sorong on February 22nd. I was at CE from February 24-March 3.

All went smoothly until my check-in at the Garuda counter to go from Jakarta to Sorong. It took 45 minutes to check in because of the baggage. Garuda is a new member of SkyTeam, which was evident as they mishandled my reservation. I used 40,000 Delta miles to get a business class seat for the extra luggage allowance plus the free 50-pound sports baggage. The circus monkeys at Garuda decided to intermingle the Delta rules and Garuda rules and they charged me $100 USD as a Delta rule for an extra bag but gave me the free sports bag on the Garuda rule. I was supposed to have all bags free in business class. This was the start of my frustrations with being in Indonesia.

ATM Debit Card Theft. You really have to pay attention to your surroundings because the thieves are everywhere. When I arrived, I went to two ATMs at the Jakarta airport using my Charles Schwab debit card for IDR since the machines have limits. I am very careful to look for skimmers and watch my back while withdrawing money. A woman came up too close for personal space at an ATM and said “taxi?” I’m guessing she was testing to see if I understood English for a distraction. I turned around (mistake-I should have ignored her). She muttered something, and I told her to back up and go away. I got my money and left.

Fast forward four days, and I get a text from Charles Schwab questioning two charges from Singapore, one for zero dollars and one for $99.99. The zero dollars charge is, of course, to see if this is a live card number. I denied authorization and they blocked it from going through. Yep, my debit card number was stolen. The card was blocked from further use. I don’t know which of the two machines had the skimmer or if the woman had anything to do with it. Charles Schwab sent me a new card to my hotel in Australia. But for the Philippines portion of this trip, I was without local currency. Unknown to me, the Philippines is a cash economy, so even 7-11 in Manila takes cash only.

Back to the chronology, I stayed at the Aston hotel in Sorong, which is a real improvement over Swiss-Bel hotel from my last trip. I paid 50% of the two-night total ($30 USD) for early check in at 7:30 a.m. This was much cheaper than paying for an extra night to get into the room early. During check-in, the clerk wanted my passport for my ID, then he proceeded to attempt to take a picture of my passport on his personal phone. This screams ID theft in the making. I stopped that from happening by refusing to let him do it. The room was twice the size of the room at Swiss-Bel, in a better location, provides 2 bottles of water per day, and a very good breakfast from 5:30-10:00 a.m. that’s in an enclosed dining room as opposed to Swiss-Bel, which is open air, very hot, and lots of flies and insects swarming the food.

The hotel shuttle or a taxi is 100,000 IDR from the airport. I grabbed a taxi. I mentioned this in my last trip report of Raja Ampat, but the loud speakers throughout the city to broadcast the Muslim prayers multiple times per day is annoying. In addition to that, on Saturday night, there was 4 hours of nonstop screaming over the loud speakers, and the only thing I could understand was “revolucion”. It was 4 hours of hateful ranting. I thought the Muslim life was about peace, but this guy wanted to incite violence.

TO BE CONTINUED...
 

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Cove Eco Resort (CE). Now it’s time I got to the dive hotel. The first of three weeks in Indonesia was spent at Cove Eco Resort. They picked me up at 8:15 a.m. for the 2-hour ferry transfer to Waisai. From Waisai, it was a 1-hour, 45-minute ride on CE’s boat to their location on Yeben Island. I stayed in one of the cabins along the beach that are about 425 square feet, A/C, 24-hour electricity, plumbing, Western style toilet with a bum gun and shower. The power would go out once or twice a day for 15-30 seconds.

I had high hopes for CE, but it was not to be. The so-called A/C doesn’t include the bathroom, which has a skylight and open-air screen in the ceiling, and it’s like taking a shower in a sauna, up to 88 degrees. No toiletries or skin care products can be put in there because they might melt or just go bad from the heat. The cabin is constructed of wood with high ceilings, no insulation, and not properly sealed from the outside. Lots of gaps in the walls and floors, so there are regular insect visitors. The A/C was inadequate and the room temp would not go below 81 degrees and at times up to 82 degrees. I carry a travel temp reader, and I've attached a pic. The top number is the humidity and the bottom number is the indoor temp. With just three low-wattage lamps, the room is very dim, which makes it difficult to do camera work. The room lacks anywhere to hang stuff and just two shelves. There is no fridge and no water dispenser. A water pitcher is refilled daily, but it's just not enough to keep you hydrated and I went back and forth a lot to fill it and my water bottle. The deck has a bean bag chair and a bean bag lounger…completely worthless for a diver. No table and chairs. There is a hammock and outside drying lines, though the drying line sits six feet off the ground and is unreachable for shorter people like me.

During my stay, there were no management personnel on site. Apparently, they were all in Bali. I found it odd to run a hotel with no supervisor or management on site. There was a big communication problem with the workers not speaking any English. And I don’t mean broken English, but I could not ask any question of any worker and get an answer because they don’t understand any English. I know I’m a guest in their country, but I’ve never run into a problem like this during my foreign travels. And with no management on site, I couldn’t even go to a higher-up person for inquiries.

There is no camera room or massage services here. Also, no camera bucket on the boat. I requested it and they found a tub to fill with water.

There were a couple of pre-arrival issues with CE having to do with the marine park card purchase and extra fees that were charged that contradicted what was published. Their website and my invoice states that the trip to Piaynemo is a free excursion, but they added a $25 USD “ticket entrance” fee for that post final payment, which is just plain shady. The only thing this covers is the hike to the viewpoint. Since I had done it on the previous trip, I told them I would make a decision to go or not while I was there, but they insisted I pay it in advance (and later found out it was nonrefundable). You get a paper ticket to carry with you and on the back of the ticket is a schedule of entrance fees for various sites around the area. The fee for Piaynemo is $100,000 IDR or about $6 USD, so they charged me 4 times what it actually cost. What a ripoff and dishonest! See the ticket attached. Line 17 shows the Piaynemo fee.

The Trash. OMG, the trash in the ocean is worse than I remember from my last trip here in December 2023. The beach and dock area is full of garbage. Indonesians use the ocean as their trash bin. The groundskeepers raked the sand and picked up some of the trash. With 50 people working on the property, the grounds should be a lot cleaner. Here's a couple of pictures of the trash on site and along the pier. Sometimes I'd surface from a dive to floating trash around my face.

Wifi. Free and very slow wifi is available throughout the resort, including your room.

The Food and Service. The full board option is three meals per day with coffee, tea, and water and snacks between 4-4:30 p.m. The food was average, at best, and sometimes just not good at all. There was no dessert offered, just fruit, fruit, and more fruit. Outside of what’s included, I felt they had the nickel-and-dime concept going. Everything here is in Euro. I’ve attached the menus. The prices are stupidly high, especially given where this location is in the world. A can of soda costs what one worker makes in a day. The dining staff are a bit lackadaisical and not very attentive during meal service.

The Weather. Out of the seven days, there were three days with brief midday showers. Some days were sunny and others were overcast with cloud cover. Other than that, it’s really hot and humid. Mosquitoes and no-see-ums were bad, and I needed to be covered in repellant whenever I was not diving.

Bleaching in the Dampier Strait. There was a bleaching event in November and December 2024, and the bleaching of the hard corals is widespread and substantial. There is also a noticeable reduction in the size of the schools of fish. The change is shocking from my trip just 14 months ago. Kri Island is the bucket list place everyone wants to go to in Raja Ampat, but the bleaching is so bad that the liveaboards are not going there anymore. As a side note, the White Manta still lists Cape Kri as part of their itinerary, but we did not go there from the liveaboard.

The Dive Staff. I give high compliments to the dive staff. After each dive, they eagerly take all your gear, wash it, and hang it. There were plenty of crew on hand and they were all very friendly. The one downside is that most of them do not speak English, so communication on the boat before entering the water is not great. The dive briefing is in broken English, and I could only understand about half of it. As a seasoned diver, it didn't affect my dive experience because I could figure things out. But if I had a question, I just kept asking until I got an understandable answer.

The Diving. My package was 7 nights, full board meals, with 17 dives, including a night dive every night at the house reef. They do not do any night boat diving at any regular dive sites because of the changing currents and they don’t want to lose a diver in the dark. February 28th was a new moon, and the night dive was very lively. CE has three boats and the diver-to-guide ratio is four or five to one, sometimes two to one. Nitrox is free and fills were 3000-3200 pounds at 32%. You can dive your computer with a max time of 60 minutes.

The Healthy Dive Sites. Melissa’s Garden (2 times), Fam Channel, Mayhem, Citrus Ridge, Anita Garden, Rufus Ridge, Rufus Wall. These sites were all in good condition with healthy corals and plenty of fish life. Schooling yellowtail barracudas, black tip sharks, bait balls were all the highlights.

The Poor Dive Sites: Manta Cove is supposed to be a place to find mantas. With a sandy bottom and a few coral bommies with no pinnacles, it doesn’t make sense the mantas would come here. It was boring and we saw no mantas. Yefnabi Jetty was the worst site of the week. Completely dead coral and no fish. It was pitiful and I don’t know why they took us there other than for their own convenience for proximity to the surface interval site or the next dive site. Surface intervals were spent at a local deserted island where we’d offload from the boat and spend time at the beach. Fresh fruit and a cake-like snack was provided.

Dive Conditions. There was very little current to contend with, but sometimes the direction of the current would change and get stronger and we’d turn the dive. Because of the cloudy sky, visibility was reduced in the low light conditions. Water temps ranged from 83-87 degrees F.

Overall. Air conditioning is a requirement for me in hot, tropical locations and because the A/C didn't work, I will not return here. Add to that the dishonesty, the poor food quality, and the trash, I wouldn't recommend it. However, this resort location is one of the farthest islands going south that is not a homestay, which means modern comforts. So if you want to be near the southern sites and you can tolerate the inconveniences I mentioned, you may like it here.

I had a short interval between my two trips to Raja Ampat, and I did not have the "wow" factor on this trip as I did the first time. The diving is still better than the Caribbean, but I don't foresee coming back in the future. In the two weeks of land-based diving, I visited 19 sites, and 11 of them were worthy of diving and 8 of them were in terrible condition. When I asked the guides to take me to a non-bleached site, his response was "all of Raja Ampat is bleached."

I've completed the three weeks of diving in Raja Ampat, and I'll follow with separate reports for RADL and White Manta. And I'll post some of my pictures soon.
 

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These are the pictures you don't want to see showing the bleaching and the trash, but I think you should know how it really looks there.
 

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The good pics will follow.
 

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Thank you for doing such a detailed report. My partner and I are looking at going to RA in the next year or so (we live in Australia so luckily it’s not quite as much long haul air travel for us) and he is keen to do a mix of land based/resort and liveaboard so this is a very useful first hand account to consider for our own trip planning! Looking forward to your next installments re the experience on White Manta and at Raja Ampat Dive Lodge.
 
Yikes, the trash and bleaching is rough.

Wonder how long the strait will take to recover? I've read that bleached (but not dead) corals can bounce back in just a year or two if water temperatures drop to normal levels fairly quickly, but I have no idea what the conditions have been like there since December. If the coral is fully dead and not just bleached it could be a while.

In any case, that's why I'm trying to get as many of my big diving trips done ASAP. Heading to Raja on the Blue Manta in January. I figure we've got maybe another 10-15 years until the bleaching events become so frequent and widespread that it becomes difficult to find places that aren't severely impacted.
 
We were in Raja at the end of January and only saw a site or two that had substantial bleaching or stress. What was disappointing and made us sad was all the trash floating in the water and littered the beaches. The boats were constantly dodging garbage. On some sites we’d see a piece of garbage at depth, but one dive site the garbage was hang on the water column, and it was everywhere. Lot’s of types of plastics.
 
Pretty much sums up why I have no desire to dive RA...too much easier access, good food and accomodations, and diving in Bali and northern Sulawesi. Sorry to hear about your ATM card issue; crisp new Benjamins are are still king around the world, and especially in SE Asia. Easily and quickly exchanged for local currency almost anywhere. I always have $500-$1000 with me on every dive trip, and just keep them tucked away somewhere in my luggage or dive gear and never had an issue in two decades of diving in Asia. If you ever return to Indonesia, I recommend you DL and register with the Wise money transfer app, which gives some of the best exchange rates and quick and easy bank to bank money transfers between your home country bank and an Indonesian personal or business account. Transfers can be as fast as 5 minutes. As it seems your pre-paying your major trip expenses with a travel agency, Wise may not be so important but still good to have. As you're probably aware, US based "wallet" apps from Apple and Google are useless in Indo, as are apps like Venmo and whatever else the kids are using these days for small money transfers in Murica. Chip credit card readers are also ubiquitous in Indo and a convenient and safe form of payment. I don't know much about ID theft, but I think your recoiling at having the hotel check-in agent photocopy your passport is a bit over the top. At least in Thailand, it's a legal retirement that they do so and submit the copy to the local immigration office withing 24 hours of guests checking in. It may be the same in Indo...I recall some hotels in more urban areas making a copy of mine, while smaller guesthouses and homestays in rural areas didn't. Besides, when you made the reservation the hotel already has all the pertinent information except the photo or in your case, the staff probably just wrote it down manually on a piece of paper. I don't think it's necessary to be quite so paranoid when traveling this part of the world. I've been doing it for a quarter century, from Phnom Penh and Hong Kong, to Manila and Jakarta without any issues. I'm much more security conscious when I'm Stateside than when I'm in Asia.
 
Pretty much sums up why I have no desire to dive RA...too much easier access, good food and accomodations, and diving in Bali and northern Sulawesi. Sorry to hear about your ATM card issue; crisp new Benjamins are are still king around the world, and especially in SE Asia. Easily and quickly exchanged for local currency almost anywhere. I always have $500-$1000 with me on every dive trip, and just keep them tucked away somewhere in my luggage or dive gear and never had an issue in two decades of diving in Asia. If you ever return to Indonesia, I recommend you DL and register with the Wise money transfer app, which gives some of the best exchange rates and quick and easy bank to bank money transfers between your home country bank and an Indonesian personal or business account. Transfers can be as fast as 5 minutes. As it seems your pre-paying your major trip expenses with a travel agency, Wise may not be so important but still good to have. As you're probably aware, US based "wallet" apps from Apple and Google are useless in Indo, as are apps like Venmo and whatever else the kids are using these days for small money transfers in Murica. Chip credit card readers are also ubiquitous in Indo and a convenient and safe form of payment. I don't know much about ID theft, but I think your recoiling at having the hotel check-in agent photocopy your passport is a bit over the top. At least in Thailand, it's a legal retirement that they do so and submit the copy to the local immigration office withing 24 hours of guests checking in. It may be the same in Indo...I recall some hotels in more urban areas making a copy of mine, while smaller guesthouses and homestays in rural areas didn't. Besides, when you made the reservation the hotel already has all the pertinent information except the photo or in your case, the staff probably just wrote it down manually on a piece of paper. I don't think it's necessary to be quite so paranoid when traveling this part of the world. I've been doing it for a quarter century, from Phnom Penh and Hong Kong, to Manila and Jakarta without any issues. I'm much more security conscious when I'm Stateside than when I'm in Asia.
I've used my Schwab debit card all over the world and never had an issue with getting cash during my travels. It's the only bank I know of that reimburses all ATM fees, so it costs me nothing to pull money out. I prefer not to carry large sums of USD when I travel. We all have our preferences. YMMV.

I have no problem giving my passport for identification and I have had it scanned by the hotels on my last trip to Indo. But the clerk was using his personal phone to take a photo of my passport and not a scanner at the registration desk, which is why I balked about him doing so.
 
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