Question on which camera to buy

[THomas Marshall]

Hi All,

I've been reading through the threads here and thanks so much for the excellent information. However, I have a few questions I would appreciate some help with regarding underwater photography.

First off, a little background might help. I've been a certified diver for over 20 years, my son will be certified this year. I dive primarily in Southern California, but often visit Hawaii, and other tropical islands, we will be in F.P. this summer (Tahiti, Bora Bora, Taha and Rangiroa). I'm very confortable underwater and want to get into photography this year.

I'm also looking for a good digital camera for land use and was considering the Nikon D-100 (my friend has one and it takes amazing pictures with 6.0 mega pixels), as well as something to use for underwater shots. My first thought was this would be two cameras, now I'm wondering if one camera can serve both uses. I want to make a decision soon, as I need time to practice before we go on vacation in August.

I want to eventually get to a point where I can take pictures of the same, or close to the same, quality many of you have posted on this forum (just excellent pictures by the way, my compliments). So I'm willing to spend the money up front and get a nice camera so I don't have to replace it in a year or so.

So here are my questions:

1- It appears that many of you choose to go with a camera that will do both land and underwater photography (e.g. Olympus 5060 and one of the waterproof cases). Is this what most of you do, at least the non-professional photographers?

2- My first thought was to buy something like a Sea&Sea Aquapix 3100 (only 3.1 megapixels) and use it exclusively for underwater photography, and also purchase the Nikon D-100 for land use only, is this an overkill, or waste of money?

I hesitate to take the Nikon underwater as it's very pricey and I would hate to loose it due to an error on my part. Keep in mind land photography is my first priority and what I do the most of.

3- I'm now considering the Olympus 5060, or something like it, and purchasing a waterproof case (e.g. PT-015, etc.). This would replace the S&S 3100, seems like I would get better quality pictures from the 5060, and it also does a decent job on land as well, what do you think? Maybe even pass on the Nikon.

I'm struggling with how to address both land and sea photography. I don't mind buying two cameras, or spending a little more money, I just want the best results I can get, any other suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks

 

[ScubaRon]

Since it sounds like you are mostly interested in the "land" performance, you may want to consider the new Olympus C-8080. It's featuring is more like the D-100, but it will have a housing available next month.

Re. taking an expensive camera UW you may want to consider DEPP flood insurance.

 

[billseamon]

The other thng to consider is the cost of the Nikon case. Most of those cases are over $2000.00 while the 5060 case is about $250.00. Several friends just got the 5050 case and one found the PT-015 for $150.00 on the net. These cameras and cases worked great, the only problem is running the strobe in full manual. The new 5060 (and it appears the 8080 will also) have a TTL connection to the Oly strobe. The problem with this is you need about $200.00 housing for the strobe and this is a land strobe. I wonder how good this strobe would work underwater. Ideally I'd like to wait until they come with a 5 to 8 Meg pixel camera that has a generic TTL port that can run a good underwater strobe.

 

[Dee]

If you want a good SLR for land and a good digital for underwater, but don't want to take the SLR underwater, then 2 cameras make sense. If you like the results from the Nikon, you won't be satisfied with the SeaPix. I would suggest the Oly C-5050 in a PT-15 housing at least. The C-5060 is starting to show good results, although I don't know much about it's operation idiosyncrasies, I would recommend the Ikelite housing for it. You can get a very fine digital rig for underwater use for $1000-1500 tops, maybe a bit more if you go for dome ports and wide angle lens. You can then concentrate on the SLRs needs for specialty lenses. If you have the money for 2 cameras, each dedicated for it's specific purpose, you'll have exactly what you want/need for both. For those of us who have to cover both land and water with one camera, we have to make sometimes drastic compromises in order to cover both with one camera.

 

[THomas Marshall]

Yes, the only cases I could find for the Nikon are very expensive, more than the camera.

This is why I'm considering another less expensive camera like the Olympus 5050 or 5060 for UW use only.

The 8080 may be a good solution, more expensive, but it can handle both applications (land and sea), so I wouldn't need two cameras.

How important is a strobe?

Any other options for a camera and case under $1000.00 that can utilize a good UW strobe?

Dee, your post came in while I was writing this one, thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Dee]

Of course I recommend the C-5050/PT-15, it's what I use and I'm happy with it! The C-5060 hasn't been out long enough to prove itself yet but it's looking better all along. However I would skip the Oly housing and go with an Ikelite for this one. Why? If you ever want to use a wide angle lens, it will require a small housing of it's own, as will an Oly strobe, although you would have a couple of strobe options if you go with a different brand. Right now, I still have to go with the C-5050. If for no other reason than you'll know what to expect and there's folks out here to help you with it. I'll let others get into the technical specifics of f/stops and lenses.

The next brand I'd have you look at beside the Oly is the Canon. We've seen some decent results from a couple of their models but honestly, I don't know enough about them to recommend them or not.

A strobe is not important at first, as you'll want to get used to the camera and what it can do on it's own. The internal flash is pretty good by itself, but you will want a strobe soon. Think if it as taking the sun down with you. A strobe will replace the lost color spectrum at depth and show the beautiful colors uw. It's not a guarantee for perfect exposures, it won't carry more than 4-5 ft but in that space, it's an awsome difference.

 

[THomas Marshall]

Dee,

I checked out the Ikelite, looks like a very nice case. What about strobes for the 5050 in combination with the Ikelite case?

 

[Dee]

We keep typing over each other!

Ikelite has their own kind of strobes and lots of people like them. Ikelite is the King of customer service. The DS-125 is the most used strobe with their housing. If you want TTL, you'll need a controller, and they have a seperate sensor that needs to be kept aimed at the internal flash. That only a very basic description of the Ikelite system. One of their users will have to explain it better!

Personally, I prefer a simply system like the S&S YS90DX or the Inon D-180, both connest with a simple, fiber optic system. I don't care for TTL, I like to control my own exposures manually so this system is perfect for me. To compare the two is like apples and oranges, they are both sweet just with different flavors!

 

[THomas Marshall]

Simple sounds good to me.

So the Olympus PT-015 case, the YS90DX strobe, and probably a PT Inon wide angle lens would be a nice package for the 5050?

More money, but it sounds like a better setup then the S&S Aquapix I was considering.

 

[Dee]

So is the Olympus PT-015 case, the YS90DX strobe, and probably a PT Inon wide angle lens would be a nice package for the 5050?

Sounds like a better setup then the S&S Aquapix I was considering.

I'm getting used to the PT-15, I think if my hands were bigger I would be more comfortable with it. I've had my YS90DX strobe for a couple of years and have loved it. If I was buying a new strobe today, I'd go with the Inon D-180. It's works very similar to the YS90, same basic settings and power but half the 90's size. Smaller can be a good thing in a current and when packing. When I bought my S&S WA lens for the C-4040/PT-10, I chose it over the Inon because the Inons I had seen were showing blurred edges. I haven't gotten it in the water on the PT-15 so I can't say from personal experience I would still prefer it, but I am still seeing blurred edges from the Inon on Pt-15's. There were some recent examples of this on DDN, I'll see if I can find them and send you the. I know several folks have bought the Inon because of the ability to add a dome port at a later date.