Question on ScubaPro DIN/Yoke conversion

[rsingleton]

So, I'm in process of buying a new ScubaPro M25 1st with A700 2nd. I was planning to get DIN b/c it's just better and b/c eventually i'm going to start doing some Tec diving. However, I do a lot of travel diving and rental tanks that use yokes. I was reading that conversion kits are much better than using adapters. However, I talked to ScubaPro directly and there is not a conversion kit for DIN to Yoke. Only Yoke to DIN. So do you think I should buy the M25 as a yoke and get the DIN conversion kit to convert to DIN when I need it, and back to Yoke when I need it. ScubaPro says each time you switch the reg needs services (i.e money). I thought this conversion was something one could do themselves with a couple tools and some knowledge?

Or should I just get the DIN and one of the low cost Yoke adapters and just deal with the extra adapter bumping my head.

Thanks

 

[tbone1004]

depends on how much your LDS likes you unfortunately. Thank you for not putting it in the SP subforum so we can speak freely on the subject.

In this case it is best to buy the regulator as a yoke and buy the din conversion kit. The kit will contain essentially 3 parts, the din turret, the hand wheel, and the filter retainer. The yoke side of it contains the filter, star retainer, and the yoke turret/yoke itself. 1" socket is the size.

Scubapro has to legally tell you it has to be serviced to swap them over, obviously it doesn't actually need to be serviced to do that and a lot of shops will swap it over for free for customers they like, you're an instructor so it should help a bit, otherwise you can do it yourself with a 1" 12 point socket that is 1/4" drive, a 6mm and 5/32" allen key and that's about it. Can probably use a 1" box wrench and use the 12 point side to get the yoke off too. Don't really need a torque wrench if you have done it before, going by feel gets you real darn close. Your reg tech might offer to do it for free, or offer to guide you in how to do it, i.e. let you watch how it's done and not say anything due to liability.

It's not rocket science, but it does have to be done right.

 

[industrious95]

I have a ScubaPro DIN 1st stage that my LDS installed for me. 3 of my tanks are DIN and 2 are yoke, so I occasionally use the adapter locally, plus when I travel.

I've never had a problem with the adapter banging me in the head. Maybe you could try mounting your BC a little lower on the tank to get the top of the tank between your shoulders and head, sort of in the back of your neck? The way the adapter fits, only half of the length is on your 1st stage, the other half, with the knob, hangs off the back of the tank.

 

[rsingleton]

depends on how much your LDS likes you unfortunately. Thank you for not putting it in the SP subforum so we can speak freely on the subject.

In this case it is best to buy the regulator as a yoke and buy the din conversion kit. The kit will contain essentially 3 parts, the din turret, the hand wheel, and the filter retainer. The yoke side of it contains the filter, star retainer, and the yoke turret/yoke itself. 1" socket is the size.

Scubapro has to legally tell you it has to be serviced to swap them over, obviously it doesn't actually need to be serviced to do that and a lot of shops will swap it over for free for customers they like, you're an instructor so it should help a bit, otherwise you can do it yourself with a 1" 12 point socket that is 1/4" drive, a 6mm and 5/32" allen key and that's about it. Can probably use a 1" box wrench and use the 12 point side to get the yoke off too. Don't really need a torque wrench if you have done it before, going by feel gets you real darn close. Your reg tech might offer to do it for free, or offer to guide you in how to do it, i.e. let you watch how it's done and not say anything due to liability.

It's not rocket science, but it does have to be done right.

Thanks for the info. I do hold a SSI Visual Tank Inspection Cert, so I know how to take the yoke off. Just never converted valves before. From what I've been reading, it does sound simple.

QUestion, is there any difference between a factory configured DIN purchased like that, vs a Yoke that has been converted to DIN with the convo. kit.? Any advantage to having a native DIN over a converted one. Or are they essentially the same.

 

[tbone1004]

same parts, just put in a bag and sold to you at an insane markup The parts are all the same, they will also be identical to the Halcyon parts except black instead of blue and likely the same as the rest of the Tusa regulator yoke and din kits, of course they will never tell you that TUSA makes all of their regulators, but they do, for both companies.

RE. the SSI VIP I think you have it a bit backwards, it isn't the same as taking the yoke off of the tank.....
http://www.frogkick.dk/manuals/scubapro/Manuals/1. Stage/
Manual is in there, the manuals aren't quite as good as the ones for Apeks, but you can get the picture.

 

[rsingleton]

same parts, just put in a bag and sold to you at an insane markup The parts are all the same, they will also be identical to the Halcyon parts except black instead of blue and likely the same as the rest of the Tusa regulator yoke and din kits, of course they will never tell you that TUSA makes all of their regulators, but they do, for both companies.

RE. the SSI VIP I think you have it a bit backwards, it isn't the same as taking the yoke off of the tank.....
http://www.frogkick.dk/manuals/scubapro/Manuals/1. Stage/
Manual is in there, the manuals aren't quite as good as the ones for Apeks, but you can get the picture.

Ah ok. thanks for clarification.

 

[tbone1004]

no worries, probably don't want another SKU which is why they have din conversion but not the other way around. Either way, they usually aren't that much more expensive than the din/yoke screw on adapters, so I recommend people get the actual conversion kits and then find a screw on adapter for cheap on ebay or something to use in an emergency but if you know you're going to be diving and needing yoke to just switch over.
If I had my yoke reg with me I'd show you how easy it is to swap in a youtube video but unfortunately won't be around one for a little while here, but it is stupid simple.

you can see here how to replacee the DIN, it's obviously not mk25, but it's pretty close, probably identical. The important thing about that is that you can leave the assembly together when it is taken apart, so just put it in a plastic ziplock and you're good to go.

[video=youtube;mnEjJ5adesw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnEjJ5adesw[/video]

 

[halocline]

Thanks for the info. I do hold a SSI Visual Tank Inspection Cert, so I know how to take the yoke off. Just never converted valves before. From what I've been reading, it does sound simple.

I don't really know what you're talking about; tank inspection has nothing to do with taking the yoke off. The yoke is a part of the regulator, you certainly must realize that. If you're talking about the DIN/yoke convertible tank valves, they are only 200bar DIN valves with a threaded insert to allow for a yoke regulator to be used. There is, of course, absolutely no difference between removing one of these from a tank and removing a yoke valve.

Anyhow, with regards to the regulator, buy a yoke reg now, that's what you'll use, and get the DIN conversion kit later, they're all over ebay. Changing the reg from yoke to DIN is very simple and easy, however there is a specified torque, which means you'll need a torque wrench and vise to do it correctly. I'm sure many many dealers do not use a torque wrench when installing the yoke or DIN fittings, though. It's evidently not a crucial torque spec; it used to be, but SP changed the design of their DIN/yoke retainer to accommodate some of the knuckle-draggers that were overtorqueing MK20s and causing them to occasionally split apart. This was not good PR....

I don't agree that DIN is 'just better' unless you are technical diving and need to minimize entanglement hazards. Both systems work fine, as is demonstrated every single day when thousands of dives are successfully completed trouble free with yoke regulators. If there was a real problem, nobody would be stupid enough to use them. Well, maybe a few people.

 

[tbone1004]

it's interesting that a lot of regulators don't actually have torque specs in the manuals for much of anything anymore, it's "snug", as soon as you feel the metal grab stop, they're all held in with the o-rings which as soon as they start compressing put outward pressure on the threads making it somewhat difficult to unscrew unintentionally, and even with proper torque specs, both yoke and din turrets can unscrew themselves over time.

 

[rsingleton]

I don't really know what you're talking about; tank inspection has nothing to do with taking the yoke off. The yoke is a part of the regulator, you certainly must realize that. If you're talking about the DIN/yoke convertible tank valves, they are only 200bar DIN valves with a threaded insert to allow for a yoke regulator to be used. There is, of course, absolutely no difference between removing one of these from a tank and removing a yoke valve.

Anyhow, with regards to the regulator, buy a yoke reg now, that's what you'll use, and get the DIN conversion kit later, they're all over ebay. Changing the reg from yoke to DIN is very simple and easy, however there is a specified torque, which means you'll need a torque wrench and vise to do it correctly. I'm sure many many dealers do not use a torque wrench when installing the yoke or DIN fittings, though. It's evidently not a crucial torque spec; it used to be, but SP changed the design of their DIN/yoke retainer to accommodate some of the knuckle-draggers that were overtorqueing MK20s and causing them to occasionally split apart. This was not good PR....

I don't agree that DIN is 'just better' unless you are technical diving and need to minimize entanglement hazards. Both systems work fine, as is demonstrated every single day when thousands of dives are successfully completed trouble free with yoke regulators. If there was a real problem, nobody would be stupid enough to use them. Well, maybe a few people.

Well, as i indicated, I didn't know anything about converting regs. Since DIN screws into the tank, I thought maybe you had to replace the tank valve as well, so the 1st stage could fit into the tank valve appropriately. Obviously, this isn't true, now that I've learned more about how the Yoke>DIN conversion is accomplished.