Question about logging hull-cleans

[fstbttms]

that and that it can be a pain in the butt getting between boats and docks sometimes... a few tight squeezes.

+1
Sometime you don't even have room to get your head in between the dock and the hull. Trying to get up into a space that small while wearing a tank would be a real PITA.

 

[fstbttms]

Huh? Methinks you be mistaken.

Wookie uses a Danish product (Hemple) that I had never heard of previously (I suspect it is unavailable in California) but there are several other, national brands of copper-based anti fouling paints that are suitable for use on aluminum hulls. Vivid and Trilux 33 come to mind. These products use cuprous thiocyanate as a biocide rather than the more common cuprous oxide.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

Wookie uses a Danish product (Hemple) that I had never heard of previously (I suspect it is unavailable in California) but there are several other, national brands of copper-based anti fouling paints that are suitable for use on aluminum hulls. Vivid and Trilux 33 come to mind. These products use cuprous thiocyanate as a biocide rather than the more common cuprous oxide.

What I used to do with alumunum was first mark 3" above the waterline and tape off the upper portion of the boat. Then I would scrub down the (bare aluminum) bottom with alumiprep 33 and rinse it with a hose thoroughly. Then while it was still wet I would spray on a layer of alodine and let that dwell for 3-4 minutes. While it was still wet I would rinse that off with a hose and then towel dry and blow dry the hull.
Next, I would spray on about 10 mils of an epoxy barrier coat that's made by interlux. After that sat for 12 hours it was receptive for any bottom paint the customer wanted, usually Trinidad SR or something similar.
I would roll the bottom paint then immediatly line brush it so the strokes went the direction of the boat. This seemed to keep the texture to a minimum and make the boat a little faster.
As long as the surface of the aluminum is treated with an acid wash then a chomate conversion coating like Alodine virtually anything will stick.

 

[vshearer]

Learn something new every day. I guess I am just too old...although I have added the Cayenne for a boost in the past.

 

[fstbttms]

Learn something new every day... although I have added the Cayenne for a boost in the past.

Then you know that is a worthless waste of time and good cayenne.

 

[Wookie]

HempelUSA is made in Conroe, Texas. I use it because their topside paint doesn't chalk like International paints do. You're probably right about California, I'd go nuts (or to Oregon) trying to source paint there, but you might not need the copper based paint there, I'd guess that the colder water inhibits fouling a bit? The Coast Guard in Key West uses e-paint with relatively good results. I just can't get over poisoning the little guys. Then I want them to warn all their friends.

 

[fstbttms]

HempelUSA is made in Conroe, Texas. I use it because their topside paint doesn't chalk like International paints do. You're probably right about California, I'd go nuts (or to Oregon) trying to source paint there, but you might not need the copper based paint there, I'd guess that the colder water inhibits fouling a bit?

We experience high fouling conditions here, especially in Southern California and all the popular copper paints are still available and are still in use (although zinc-based paints are making inroads). My guess is the stuff you use has higher VoC levels than are allowable in California.

 

[muddiver]

Really? Not SOP in the hull cleaning biz.

What ever you do, DO NOT use a topside tender or you will be mistaken for a professional/commercial diver, and OSHA will be knocking on your door.

I was going to be leaving my tank topside and using a long hose. But, I guess taking my tank with me might be better, if it has been working for so long.

Most of the hull scrubbers I have met do this. Usually the tank/compressor is in a small 10' to 15' boat that they either tie off or tow around. Some do use the dock as a work platform in the smaller marinas and just wheel their rig around on a hand truck.

No, you do not want to be wearing the tank under the boats you're working on. Leave it topsides. But you said you were going to be working with a tender. That is not SOP in the hull cleaning biz, regardless of how you manage your air supply.

I agree with this. I might consder a small bail out like the rig that Brownie use to sell where there was a small cylinder slung horizontally on a waist belt on which the air line was secured. Most hull scrubbers seems to just hold the regulator in their mouth or tuck it in a standard weight belt from what I have seen. I would find that a real pain compaired to a good snap shackel secured air line on a belt. Let your wait haul the line around insted of your jaw I say.

 

[fstbttms]

I might consder a small bail out like the rig that Brownie use to sell where there was a small cylinder slung horizontally on a waist belt on which the air line was secured.

The reality is that when cleaning boat bottoms, you are rarely more than a few feet from the surface and if your primary air supply is ever interrupted, you would likely be at the surface, breathing through your mouth as soon or sooner than you could get going with a bailout. In addition, a 50' air hose is going to have a breath or two of air in it even after the flow stops.

In this biz, the less gear and other crap you have to deal with and carry around, the more productive and profitable you will be.

 

[robert6104]

Dr. Clean,
I think you are in the right business cleaning hulls - there's money to be made!
What kind of diving system are you using? If you are going to use conventional SCUBA with tanks, it's going to be an extra expense for you and very cumbersome while cleaning the hull at the surface.
Robert