question about locktite and o-ring on DIN/Yoke conversion

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Zef

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Hello,
I had my Mares Abyss regulator converted from International yoke to DIN because I am currently living in Europe. I am going a dive trip to the Philippines and was told that the company we are diving with do not have DIN compatible tank valves.

I am converting back to the yoke for the trip. The shop that installed the DIN conversion used a red locktite type product on the threads of the part that screws into the first stage. It was a bear to break this piece free. For the install of the yoke, I have some locktite blue medium strength...will that suffice for the install?

Also, the original o-ring on the yoke measures the same as a 014 o-ring. I have a bunch of these in 90 durometer ((for tank valve to 1st stage interface), but the on the yoke feels softer...would it be ok to use a 90 durometer o-ring in this application?...it surprises me that the original o-ring is soft as usually high pressure parts would receive the harder 90 durometer o-ring.

Thanks in advance for any advise on this.
-Zef
 
First you shouldn't need a locktite product to hold the DIN or yoke to the 1st stage. Its a product for lazy engineers. Unfortunately, where I work its used by the gallon.

'O' rings, now your opening a can of worms. There are quite a number that look vary similar, but have different uses. There is one for yokes, with a different one for the US market, then the 232 and 300 bar DINs. And don't assume the one inside your DIN is the same as that required to make the seal with the cylinder.
 
The o-ring in question is the original one from the yoke where it screws into the 1st stage...and the 014 90 durometer o-rings that I have were effective replacements for the tank valve - yoke interface when I was using the yoke.

Both o-rings, the one the original one on the yoke and the 014 measure as follows:
ID = 1/2 inch
OD = 5/8 inch
thickness = 1/16 inch

Just wondering if the harder durometer o-ring will be ok or should I look for a softer one like the that is original to the yoke?
 
The harder oring should be fine unless there is a small scratch that could result in a slight leak. Try it and it will tell you if the softer oring is require.
 
I like to use 85 or 90 duro o-rings in situations where there is a high pressure gradient and risk of extrusion. I bet in this case it will work fine as long as it's the right size. I'm not really familiar with Mares torque specs, but I doubt they would call for loctite. I'd look into it, I bet there's a manual floating around. On SP regs you never use loctite.
 
I wouldn't use red loctite for any scuba regulator application. Red loctite requires heat to remove. If you need loctite the blue would be more appropriate in my opinion. I doubt any is necessary, but maybe Mares DIN bolts fall off without it.
 
Locktite??!!! No, keep your DIN, and merely purchase a DIN / Yoke adaptor (XS Scuba, HOG, Atomic all sell them) for your trip abroad. Do not leave it attached, that is remove it after each dive and clean and dry the threads. When you get back to Europe, no other costs will be necessary to return to your DIN based diving.

014 90 O rings should work, take an extra or two along, just to be sure.
 
First off, find a shop that knows what they are doing....locktite should never be used on a reg, esp red. Red is a semi-permanent adhesive and is intended to be removed using heat. It is certainly not intended for connections that are routinely taken apart.

I see no reason not to reinstall the yoke fitting if you have it, it's an easy enough job to do yourself and a lot better option than the adapter. As for the oring, it is almost certainly a 85 or 90 durometer since it's across a high pressure interface.
 
...
I see no reason not to reinstall the yoke fitting if you have it, it's an easy enough job to do yourself and a lot better option than the adapter.
...

Agree.

Hence the reason I carry both when I go away warm water diving. It takes about 2 minutes.
 
Third vote to switch over. Simple to do on my Scubapro and Aqualung and so much better then dealing with adaptors.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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