Question about Atomic first stages

[Wookie]

The answer to 2) is, not unless you take a course from Atomic. The course is only offered to dealers and their service technicians. The year I bought 20 Ti1s, I was also sponsored to take the course by my LDS. Now that I have over 40 Atomic regulators, I find that I can buy parts (through the same LDS), and the design hasn't changed much over the past 15 years.

With that said, if you can get your hands on a service kit, and spend $400 or $500 bucks on the special tools, you can probably service your own regs. It isn't magic. The special tools are critical if you don't want to chip the hell out of your regulators (may only apply to the titanium, I chipped mine the first time because "I wasn't spending no $400 on the special tools"). In reality, it just isn't worth it for most folks to set themselves up as a service technician for one regulator every 3 years.

 

[timz]

The answer to 2) is, not unless you take a course from Atomic. The course is only offered to dealers and their service technicians. The year I bought 20 Ti1s, I was also sponsored to take the course by my LDS. Now that I have over 40 Atomic regulators, I find that I can buy parts (through the same LDS), and the design hasn't changed much over the past 15 years.

With that said, if you can get your hands on a service kit, and spend $400 or $500 bucks on the special tools, you can probably service your own regs. It isn't magic. The special tools are critical if you don't want to chip the hell out of your regulators (may only apply to the titanium, I chipped mine the first time because "I wasn't spending no $400 on the special tools"). In reality, it just isn't worth it for most folks to set themselves up as a service technician for one regulator every 3 years.

Thanks buddy. I've somewhat downloaded the service manual for first stage regulator. But in the manual, it has never mention anything about pressure after first stage.

But I've seen the LDS did a pressure check after the service.

And being said the special tool, the picture of the special too looks simple and can be fabricated.

 

[Wookie]

Thanks buddy. I've somewhat downloaded the service manual for first stage regulator. But in the manual, it has never mention anything about pressure after first stage.

But I've seen the LDS did a pressure check after the service.

And being said the special tool, the picture of the special too looks simple and can be fabricated.

Nothing can't be fabricated. The question is, is it worth it to you in time, money, and machine shop to make something you can get for $71 plus a gauge? This one: measures the IP as well as sets the cracking pressure on the second stage. The magnehelic is expensive, but not critical unless you are doing repairs for a living. The first stage tool is critical, as is the environmental sealing tool if you are maintaining your environmental seal. The second stage tools are nice to have to prevent having to use needle node pliers and dinging up the works.

 

[timz]

Nothing can't be fabricated. The question is, is it worth it to you in time, money, and machine shop to make something you can get for $71 plus a gauge? This one:View attachment 217651 measures the IP as well as sets the cracking pressure on the second stage. The magnehelic is expensive, but not critical unless you are doing repairs for a living. The first stage tool is critical, as is the environmental sealing tool if you are maintaining your environmental seal. The second stage tools are nice to have to prevent having to use needle node pliers and dinging up the works.

Thanks....

 

[eelnoraa]

Z2x comes with 2nd stage swivel. I don't think M1 heatsink is compatible with the swivel, so you need to choose. As for sealing 1st stage, if you are diving at 40s, forget about it. It isn't cold enough to make a difference. I see a lot of people diving unseal piston reg, like mk25 or atomics in 40-50s water, I haven't seen one free flow due to reg freezing. If you are going under ice, I think sealing it will help, but maybe a seal diaphragm first stage is a better investment, and likely to be more freeze resistant

 

[timz]

Z2x comes with 2nd stage swivel. I don't think M1 heatsink is compatible with the swivel, so you need to choose. As for sealing 1st stage, if you are diving at 40s, forget about it. It isn't cold enough to make a difference. I see a lot of people diving unseal piston reg, like mk25 or atomics in 40-50s water, I haven't seen one free flow due to reg freezing. If you are going under ice, I think sealing it will help, but maybe a seal diaphragm first stage is a better investment, and likely to be more freeze resistant

40s as in 40s°F??

Thats about 5°C !!! And it's still not freezing??

 

[eelnoraa]

Yes 40s F. Pure water freeze at 0C (32F). Sea water freezes at ~ -2C, it is like 28F. Right?

I have hit 42F at bottom with my atomic Ti reg non sealed, not daily basis, but a few times a year. I am not even that careful with the not breathing above water thing. I can't see why it will freeze unless you have a major free flow. With Brass first stage, it will resist freezing a little better too. I could be wrong

I am not saying it is the best reg for cold water, but I think sealing Atomic reg is just too expansive for very little benefit IMO. If ice diving your thing, I would say just seal diaphragm

 

[timz]

Yes 40s F. Pure water freeze at 0C (32F). Sea water freezes at ~ -2C, it is like 28F. Right?

I have hit 42F at bottom with my atomic Ti reg non sealed, not daily basis, but a few times a year. I am not even that careful with the not breathing above water thing. I can't see why it will freeze unless you have a major free flow. With Brass first stage, it will resist freezing a little better too. I could be wrong

I am not saying it is the best reg for cold water, but I think sealing Atomic reg is just too expansive for very little benefit IMO. If ice diving your thing, I would say just seal diaphragm

Thankss for all the clarifications. Yes... sea water freezes at even lower temperature depending on the salt concentration of that particular area.

I think one reason manufacturer stating a higher operation value is due to the endothermic processduring the decompression of the air in the tank that will absorb heat. The piston will be colder than the water. If breathing is too rapid, that might just freezes the water surrounding the piston.

Just theorethically...

Anyway, thanks for sharing ur experience. I might not dive on any cold water as i live at tropical region.

Just for knowledge.