Portable compressors / air quality ?

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pescador775 once bubbled...
Depends, they seem to last about half as long as a comparable oil lubricated compressor.
Could you be a little more specific?

Your statement "Those expensive things eat piston rings and need rebuilding too often" comes no doubt from your expertise and not mere idle buffoonery.

I was hoping to get a range of hours I can expect off of a set of rings so I can figure out a cost per hour in rings given that I can re-ring a 3rd stage piston for <$30 and pop in a whole new piston with new rings for $100.

Also you probably already know this off the top of your head: what is the cost of the synthetic lube per hour of operation for say a 5~6 cfm oiled compressor?

And, if I may, what is the cost differential between filter requirments for a RIX oiless and a typical oiled compressor?
 
the issue is TCO - total cost of ownership.

Assuming that the efficiencies are comparable (that is, both oil-lube and Rix will produce the same CFM for the same HP or wattage input)....

1. The oil lube compressor requires at least one hydrocarbon filter and perhaps a molecular sieve-style filter, both of which need to be changed on a regular interval and which cost money. The Rix requires neither, assuming clean intake air.

2. The oil lube compressor requires (expensive) oil, and oil changes. The Rix does not, but it eats piston rings more often, which must then be changed. How do the costs compare?

3. One may be cheaper to BUY in the first place than the other.

4. How is the Rix main bearing journals (crank, etc) lubricated?

I'm sure there are other issues, but this looks like a good start for a comparison.....

(and yes, I'm reading :))
 
Genesis once bubbled...
(and yes, I'm reading :))
Thanks for coming... I was starting to get lonely :D

I planned on replacing the third stage rings every 50 hours of operation and factored that into the cost... still cheap. Well I have pumped over 30,000 cf of EAN32 with no degradation in performance so I guess I'll just have to wait. I have a brand new third stage piston with rings ready to go (floating piston - slips in from behind) and a set of new rings to put on the piston I take out. The crank (exposed to air flow from the fan) is lubed with a special grease and I think the tube will last longer than I will.

So I figure that I have saved at least the cost of 300 nitrox fills so far (actually more like 500 fills since the tanks are usually only run down 1/2 to 2/3 at most.) I have spent less than $200 on ABO... sooo... I expect this thing will amortize out in short order.

But you know the best things is being able to go out there in the garage, top off a 104 from the bank, throw it in the truck and go dive!
 
did the entire setup cost you, inclding the bank tanks? What pressure do you pump the bank to?

I'm giving some consideration to setting up a part of my garage (I have a 3-car; could wall off the one-car part) as a fillstation/shop :)
 
UP

Filtration (condensate trap, standard tower & hyperpure tower) $225 for 16,000 ft^3, ~1.4cents per ft^3

Oil $9.70 Quart, 1.5 quarts 2000 hrs./1 yr. I change it after the second set of filters which is around a year.

Total cost of regular maintainence comes to 1.45 cents/ft^3

Unexpected costs: Developed a pinhole leak in the aftercooler line Tuesday, $104 for a replacement, $17 shipping. Up and running tonight.

omar
 
I really don't want to put the $$$ out on the list... you can get the figures by shopping around. I bank at 3600. Omar banks at 4500 and uses and oiled IR compressor.
 
As I mentioned, RIX is the way to go for pumping oxygen. However, there seems to be a question as to the necessity of using same to transfer Nitrox. I notice that UBS (DINAX Nitrox) does not require this. In fact, they use a small Bauer compressor for their custom portable DNAX unit. As to the question of initial cost: perhaps I was being unfair since it is possible to pick up a used military RIX for only a bit more than the usual type MIL SPEC or modified Military surplus compressor setup. It is assumed that a person buying any used compressor will be willing to invest some 'sweat equity' from time to time and will be mechanically capable to undertake routine maintenance. In the case of the RIX, 'routine' frequently means parts replacement instead of, for example, oil change. I say this because the Stewart Warner MIL compressor will easily go 3000 hours or more between overhauls. The RIX a bit less. As far as the air purity, the RIX is under the same requirement to deliver dry air as any diver's compressor. Generally, this means a final filter of some kind, regardless of what is claimed.
 
pescador775 once bubbled...
As I mentioned, RIX is the way to go for pumping oxygen.
Folks... I have revised my opinion.

Pesky is not an expert... and this is idle buffoonery.

For those of you contemplating a RIX SA-6 (or SA-3) do not think that you can pump oxygen with them. RIX does not recommend pumping any oxygen enriched gases through the SA series of compressors much less straight O2. They have compressors specifically for that application and the SA-6 is not one of them.

However~

I can pump EAN32 seemingly all day without a problem using additional cooling and I have even pumped 40% and have heard of shop that tried pumping 50% but had over heating problems.

I also know of a shop that pumps EAN32 day in and day out using the SA-6.

I also pump argon through mine.... but never 100% O2.
 
As you recently intoned, RIX has compressors (and amplifiers) for pumping O2. The SA6 is not recommended for this, or for pumping any type of dry gas. Doing so will cause the compressor to overheat. The overheating problem you describe for this type compressor is caused by a lack of humidity at the inlet (the SweetAir6 is water lubricated). One solution is to inject water vapor into the stream. A fogger and 'T' coupling should do it. The trick is to avoid injecting too much air which can dilute the O2 or Nitrox. The vapor should be injected upstream, into the blender if possible, or downstream from the inline demand regulator for O2. The conversion will turn the RIX SA6 compressor into something more than an expensive engineering curiosity. It'll still be expensive but-- oh, I forgot, you don't wish to discuss cost.

'Expert'? If you check, you will see I describe myself as a 'tinkerer', that's all.

The subject of this thread is filtration of the output of surplus, used compressors. I've jumped in because I know there are a lot of divers who cannot afford a 'Cadillac' because they've previously asked for guidance on an inexpensive compressor. I would like to see compressors in the hands of more divers to encourage independence and adventure. If I can encourage this by allaying some fears then my job is done. The engineering advice is, as always, gratis.

Edit: I forgot to mention; A final filter is desirable for any compressor to suppress excess humidity. However, when pumping oxygen, the filter cartridge must contain no carbon and the last filter pad in line before exit of the gas should be a clean 40 micron or better. The Navy requires 5 micron and if these are available to you that's what should be used. Of course, never pump anything richer than 36% Nitrox with an oiled compressor.

Pesky
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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