Plate weights.... ??

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Blargh

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*sigh*.. its me again :)

Just looked on Halcyon's ACB integrated weights...
How would you diehard DIR followers classify it ? useful ? useless ?

To me it looks like having two problems: 1) a plastic clip - werent those a no-no ? and 2) said plastic clip needs unclipping to ditch the weight - isnt that a bit *too* complicated and time-consuming?

TIA for any and all opinions on the matter .....
 
Blargh, that is exactly what i thought. They are very pricey too. The 10lb's per pocket version is 95 pounds, *wow* overpriced is an understatement. Personally when i get all my gear together - SS backplate + harness and steel tank, i hope to only have around 15 pounds of ditcheable weight. So i think i will stick to a shotbelt.
 
Strict DIRer's frown on such things like that. Any weight that needs to be added is done on either a weight belt or V-weight. People using wet suits are advised to use a weight belt and those who dive dry often use 8-12lb V-weights. I dive dry and use a weight belt worn under the crotch strap. You can also add another SS back plate for an additional 6lbs -- if you dive dry.
If you're diving wet, you want all the ditchable weight you can get. Use aluminum tanks and aluminum stages (Al stages regardless) if diving wet. Just wear the belt under the crotch strap to prevent accidental loss. My crotch strap just saved my belt this past weekend while on the accent line. To ditch the weights, you have to unbuckle the waste strap then unbuckle the weight belt (takes an additional second or two). The absolute last thing you want is your weights coming off accidentally (which is common with weight integration systems I have seen).

Go ahead and ask all the DIRish Q's ya want. I'm bored nowadays.

Mike
 
Originally posted by Lost Yooper
Go ahead and ask all the DIRish Q's ya want. I'm bored nowadays.

Mike [/B]

Ok, you asked for it :)
- first stages - swivel or not ? I've settled on Apeks, btw... Although my first preference was Mares Abyss (*why* dont hardcore divers use them, btw ?????)
- cylinders - should I bother with a single, or go straight for twins? *at the moment* I think that twin 7L's would give me a better trim and stability than (say) a single 12L. The fact that I (probably) can borrow training 7L's off the local club has nothing to do with it :)
- assuming that I will mostly be diving dry, with (probably twin) steel cylinders, should I opt for the alumi plate rather than a steel one? This one probably needs more variables accounted for, so let me know what they might be, please...

oh, and something else.. what is "fsw"? I understand it means "depth underwater in feet", but what what does it decode to exactly????

 
I use generic velcro weight pouches that slide on my 2" 1 piece webbing next to the B/P so as not to interfere with stages.They stay on for all diving, but only need weight in them for wetsuit use.Available from Divers Supply .I paid $7.95 per side.Gear configuration is easier when you have your instructor & buddies to help you.good luck
 
I don't know what the conversion are between Liters and and Cubic Feet, so I have to make due here. Since you said your're diving dry, I assume the water is cold enought to warrent the use of an isolation valve. If you are relatively new to diving, I would recommend a single PST (or Faber) LP95 or LP104 with a right hand Sea Elite, Scuba Pro or Dive Rite 300 BAR H-valve. Get two Apeks non swival DS4(?) firsts with the TX50 second stage primary on a 5'-7' hose (depending on your ambitions). Get the unbalanced TX40 for the back up (26" hose). I'm not too familiar with the Apeks regs as I dive the near duplicate Zeagle line. Others can correct me if I have the numbers wrong.
Now you are set to get used to the DIR hose routing and have enough air to get some decent dives in. I'm not exactly sure which wing Halcyon would recommend for a single PST 104, but if doubles are definately in the future, get the 55lb Explorer and use it for both the single rig and the doubles. I use my 55lb wing for single AL 80's and double PST 95's, though I intend to purchase a 27lb wing some day.
If you're new, take a couple seasons to get used to it all. Once you're confident to get into doubles, you would be nearly half way there. You would need to buy the similar left hand valve and isolator, 3" Highland Mills SS bands, and another similar tank.
As far as the backplate is concerned, it depends on your particular buoyancy. I use the SS plate for everything and still need weight. I'd get the SS plate for starters.

I don't know why the Abyss reg isn't used other than the Apeks reg has a tremendous track record for reliability. I'm not sure how the Apeks prices compare, but the Zeagle T50D was around $350US and it performs at least as well as other more expensive regs like Scuba Pro's, Mares, and Atomics. In short, there's no real good reason to buy anything else, I guess.

Mike


 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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