DontLieToMe
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This is a report of a two week trip aboard the Pelagian from Kupang (West Timor) to Bali.
16 September 2004
Today I will rejoin the Pelagian live-a-board and spend another 15 nights at sea journeying from Kupang to Bali.
Last night I stayed at the three (3) star Kristal Hotel. The Kristal is the only "luxury" hotel in Kupang. The hotel is fine for a night but not somewhere I would want to be for an extended period of time. Most of the television channels are in Indonesian although I was able to watch Cable News Asia which was in English.
I ate all of my meals in the restaurants coffee shop. They have a Chinese restaurant but it has not been open for several years. The food at the restaurant was passable but service was prompt and friendly. I might add that at most times I was the only diner.
I had lunch with the Captain and Joseph, the hotel manager. A little after noon a driver came to take me back to the boat. After a short wait on-shore one of the boat's dinghies transferred me back to the boat and I was home once again on the Pelagian.
At 2:00 PM the new guests arrived. There are ten passengers which is more than I have ever had with me on the boat. Two of the guests are German travel agents and the others are all Americans. Only two non-photographers among the eleven passengers.
Once everyone is on board with their luggage we are underway. After being tortured by telling me that the camera housing was lost between Bali and Kupang it appears. It was a joke by the Captain. What did I do to deserve that bit of cruelty.
17 September 2004
After steaming all night we arrive in the morning at Pantar Island and Beanbagang Bay. This is a place that I have dived twice previously and it is a fantastic location for small creatures. The area has a large expanse of black sand and a section with coral heads. We do four (4) dives at this location to include a night dive. Currents: None to Strong.
Sightings include Ornate Ghost Pipe Fish, Thorny Sea Horses, Dwarf Lion Fish, very small Scorpion Fish, Spearing Manti Shrimp, small to medium size Cuttle Fish, various nudibranchs, several types of shrimp. there are many different types of crabs included dozens that live in the soft bubble corals.
This location is one of the best in Indonesia for night dives. In addition to all of the aforementioned creatures there was many small octopuses, and snake eels. In addition to the two Thorny Sea Horses spotted during the day dives there is a pregnant and baby specimen.
Conditions were quite variable. During the first dive their was virtually no current and 60 foot visibility. The second dive had a very strong current that made looking for creatures very difficult as it was almost impossible to stay "anchored" in the sand due to the lack of hand holds. The third dive had a moderate current but very limited visibility at times.
Water Temperature: 73F. Visibility: 20 to 60 feet. Dive Time: 70 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: Mild to Strong.
18 September 2004
Pura Island. Clownfish Alley. This location is well known for its many species of anemone and associated Clown Fish. Conditions upon entry were a slight current that progressively became stronger. Visibility was very good. Sightings included ten or more types of nudibranchs, several types of Dragonets, a pair of mating Cuttlefish, a small Banded Sea Snake, and a Sponge Crab. At 50 minutes into the dive a very cold upwelling occurred that dropped the water temperature from 73F to 66F and brought in many fish. Water Temperature: 66F to 73F. Visibility: 70 to 95 feet. Dive Time: 71 minutes. Maximum Depth: 88 feet. Current: Moderate to Strong.
Pura Island. The Boardroom. This dive is along a very nice slope. The water temperature was a very mild 82F with a mild current. More than anything this was a pretty dive. There were a few nudibranchs, a nice collection of Dragonets, and a couple of crabs on the Barrel Sponges. On previous visits Mandarin Fish have been briefly sighted. Water Temperature: 82F. Visibility: 70 to 95 feet. Dive Time: 71 minutes. Maximum Depth: 88 feet. Current: None to Mild.
Ternate Island. Midway Between Babylon and The Arch. This dive was conducted on the trip between the recognized dive sites of Babylon and The Arch. Upon entry there was a strong current running toward the point. A small Woebegong Shark was found at 75 feet but after being disturbed it swam down to 105 feet. Needless to say, it was pursued by the photographers. Other sightings included several types of Morays and a Yellow-Green Leaf Scorpion Fish. Water Temperature: 72F to 77F. Visibility: 50 to 70 feet. Dive Time: 73 minutes. Maximum Depth: 105 feet. Current: Mild to Strong.
Little Alor. Pancoran Reef. The dive site was a relatively long ten minute ride from the boat on the other side of the bay from where the boat was anchored. The location was a slope with white sand patches. Sightings included a large Puffer Fish, several types of nudibranchs and flatworms, a Juvenile Lion Fish, Lion Fish, numerous large Scorpion Fish, and a variety of crabs. Water Temperature: 79F. Visibility: 50 to 70 feet. Dive Time: 60 minutes. Maximum Depth: 60 feet. Current: Mild.
19 September 2004
Pura Island. Clownfish Alley. Due to currents we dove this location again this morning. While currents were supposed to be milder they were strong upon entry and required a rock-to-rock traverse to get to the primary exploration area. The first sighting was three small to medium size Cuttle Fish. There were several types of nudibranch, a Box Fish, a small Woebegong Shark, Scorpion Fish, and a juvenile Lion Fish. Schooling fish were plentiful. Water Temperature: 72F. Visibility: 70 to 80 feet. Dive Time: 66 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: Moderate to Strong.
Pura Island. Steven's Lament. The dive team put the divers into the water in the center of a small bay which was broken rubble. After swimming for ten minutes with the reef on the left the coral became more interesting and eventually became some small walls and very nice slopes. Sightings included some of the more common nudibranchs and Blue Ribbon Eels. Fish life was excellent with a profusion Anthias and a small school of Trevally. Water Temperature: 82F. Visibility: 70 to 90 feet. Dive Time: 73 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: None to Mild.
Pura Island. Tri-Top. For the second time in seven days the team put the divers in the wrong location relative to this excellent dive. As when I was here last the entry point was on the slope a fair distance from the Tri-Top walls. The slope is not very interesting. The conditions had a strong current running on the slope. After 20 to 25 minutes I reached the walls which were also sheltered from the current. Water temperatures began at 73F with a thermocline at 75 feet that dropped that water temperature to 66F. It might have been even colder but I did not stay around to find out. The walls at Tri-Top are spectacularly encrusted with small sponges and have an excellent variety of wall growth. Many types of nudibranchs, shrimps, and little creatures abound in the area. Fish life on the walls, especially on those facing the afternoon sun, were swarming with Orange Anthias. Water Temperature: 66F-73F. Visibility: 50 to 70 feet. Dive Time: 70 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: Moderate to Strong.
Pura Island. Night Dive near Tri-Top. The area for this dive was largely flat terrain with patches of sand and coral heads. This made for easy night diving terrain. Immediately upon entry there were several large nudibranchs. Sightings included several Decorator Crabs, a Spider Crab, more nudibranchs and flatworms, a pair of Flounders, and a Bob-Tailed Squid. Water Temperature: 75 to 77F. Visibility: 50 to 70 feet. Dive Time: 60 minutes. Maximum Depth: 40 feet. Current: None to Mild.
20 September 2004
Today we did three dives at Komba Island. Komba is a relatively small island Northeast of Flores. The island is a young volcano and active with sulfuric fumes and steam. The Pelagian had not conducted any dives at this island. The original plan was to do four dives but time ran a bit short and it was decided to leave after three dives.
The first dive was at an area opposite a lava flow. The dive was not very good. In fact, some people thought it was terrible. The bottom consisted of a slope composed of very light black sand with a few very scattered bits of coral. There were very few fish and one or two nudibranchs. Towards the end of the dive the slope became a near wall. The topography was interesting in that the sand could act as a river sliding down the slope into the depths. Water Temperature: 81F. Visibility: 40 to 70 feet. Dive Time: 70 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: None to Mild.
The second dive was around one of the points. While the amount of coral was greater the general area consisted of earth and sand. Visibility was very good and the topography was more varied and at times quite dramatic. Fish life was limited and what corals did exist were scattered and hard corals. Water Temperature: 81F. Visibility: 70 to 90 feet. Dive Time: 70 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: None to Mild.
The third dive was a crowd pleaser. There was a rich reef consisting of hard and soft corals. The hard corals dominated with a generous sprinkling of soft corals. Fish life was much more pronounced with a few Blue Fin Tuna, several types of nudibranchs, and a Nurse Shark well hidden under a ledge. The area ended in a ridge that was covered with small Table Top corals and a nice sandy bay. Water Temperature: 81F. Visibility: 70 to 90 feet. Dive Time: 73 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: Mild to Moderate.
16 September 2004
Today I will rejoin the Pelagian live-a-board and spend another 15 nights at sea journeying from Kupang to Bali.
Last night I stayed at the three (3) star Kristal Hotel. The Kristal is the only "luxury" hotel in Kupang. The hotel is fine for a night but not somewhere I would want to be for an extended period of time. Most of the television channels are in Indonesian although I was able to watch Cable News Asia which was in English.
I ate all of my meals in the restaurants coffee shop. They have a Chinese restaurant but it has not been open for several years. The food at the restaurant was passable but service was prompt and friendly. I might add that at most times I was the only diner.
I had lunch with the Captain and Joseph, the hotel manager. A little after noon a driver came to take me back to the boat. After a short wait on-shore one of the boat's dinghies transferred me back to the boat and I was home once again on the Pelagian.
At 2:00 PM the new guests arrived. There are ten passengers which is more than I have ever had with me on the boat. Two of the guests are German travel agents and the others are all Americans. Only two non-photographers among the eleven passengers.
Once everyone is on board with their luggage we are underway. After being tortured by telling me that the camera housing was lost between Bali and Kupang it appears. It was a joke by the Captain. What did I do to deserve that bit of cruelty.
17 September 2004
After steaming all night we arrive in the morning at Pantar Island and Beanbagang Bay. This is a place that I have dived twice previously and it is a fantastic location for small creatures. The area has a large expanse of black sand and a section with coral heads. We do four (4) dives at this location to include a night dive. Currents: None to Strong.
Sightings include Ornate Ghost Pipe Fish, Thorny Sea Horses, Dwarf Lion Fish, very small Scorpion Fish, Spearing Manti Shrimp, small to medium size Cuttle Fish, various nudibranchs, several types of shrimp. there are many different types of crabs included dozens that live in the soft bubble corals.
This location is one of the best in Indonesia for night dives. In addition to all of the aforementioned creatures there was many small octopuses, and snake eels. In addition to the two Thorny Sea Horses spotted during the day dives there is a pregnant and baby specimen.
Conditions were quite variable. During the first dive their was virtually no current and 60 foot visibility. The second dive had a very strong current that made looking for creatures very difficult as it was almost impossible to stay "anchored" in the sand due to the lack of hand holds. The third dive had a moderate current but very limited visibility at times.
Water Temperature: 73F. Visibility: 20 to 60 feet. Dive Time: 70 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: Mild to Strong.
18 September 2004
Pura Island. Clownfish Alley. This location is well known for its many species of anemone and associated Clown Fish. Conditions upon entry were a slight current that progressively became stronger. Visibility was very good. Sightings included ten or more types of nudibranchs, several types of Dragonets, a pair of mating Cuttlefish, a small Banded Sea Snake, and a Sponge Crab. At 50 minutes into the dive a very cold upwelling occurred that dropped the water temperature from 73F to 66F and brought in many fish. Water Temperature: 66F to 73F. Visibility: 70 to 95 feet. Dive Time: 71 minutes. Maximum Depth: 88 feet. Current: Moderate to Strong.
Pura Island. The Boardroom. This dive is along a very nice slope. The water temperature was a very mild 82F with a mild current. More than anything this was a pretty dive. There were a few nudibranchs, a nice collection of Dragonets, and a couple of crabs on the Barrel Sponges. On previous visits Mandarin Fish have been briefly sighted. Water Temperature: 82F. Visibility: 70 to 95 feet. Dive Time: 71 minutes. Maximum Depth: 88 feet. Current: None to Mild.
Ternate Island. Midway Between Babylon and The Arch. This dive was conducted on the trip between the recognized dive sites of Babylon and The Arch. Upon entry there was a strong current running toward the point. A small Woebegong Shark was found at 75 feet but after being disturbed it swam down to 105 feet. Needless to say, it was pursued by the photographers. Other sightings included several types of Morays and a Yellow-Green Leaf Scorpion Fish. Water Temperature: 72F to 77F. Visibility: 50 to 70 feet. Dive Time: 73 minutes. Maximum Depth: 105 feet. Current: Mild to Strong.
Little Alor. Pancoran Reef. The dive site was a relatively long ten minute ride from the boat on the other side of the bay from where the boat was anchored. The location was a slope with white sand patches. Sightings included a large Puffer Fish, several types of nudibranchs and flatworms, a Juvenile Lion Fish, Lion Fish, numerous large Scorpion Fish, and a variety of crabs. Water Temperature: 79F. Visibility: 50 to 70 feet. Dive Time: 60 minutes. Maximum Depth: 60 feet. Current: Mild.
19 September 2004
Pura Island. Clownfish Alley. Due to currents we dove this location again this morning. While currents were supposed to be milder they were strong upon entry and required a rock-to-rock traverse to get to the primary exploration area. The first sighting was three small to medium size Cuttle Fish. There were several types of nudibranch, a Box Fish, a small Woebegong Shark, Scorpion Fish, and a juvenile Lion Fish. Schooling fish were plentiful. Water Temperature: 72F. Visibility: 70 to 80 feet. Dive Time: 66 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: Moderate to Strong.
Pura Island. Steven's Lament. The dive team put the divers into the water in the center of a small bay which was broken rubble. After swimming for ten minutes with the reef on the left the coral became more interesting and eventually became some small walls and very nice slopes. Sightings included some of the more common nudibranchs and Blue Ribbon Eels. Fish life was excellent with a profusion Anthias and a small school of Trevally. Water Temperature: 82F. Visibility: 70 to 90 feet. Dive Time: 73 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: None to Mild.
Pura Island. Tri-Top. For the second time in seven days the team put the divers in the wrong location relative to this excellent dive. As when I was here last the entry point was on the slope a fair distance from the Tri-Top walls. The slope is not very interesting. The conditions had a strong current running on the slope. After 20 to 25 minutes I reached the walls which were also sheltered from the current. Water temperatures began at 73F with a thermocline at 75 feet that dropped that water temperature to 66F. It might have been even colder but I did not stay around to find out. The walls at Tri-Top are spectacularly encrusted with small sponges and have an excellent variety of wall growth. Many types of nudibranchs, shrimps, and little creatures abound in the area. Fish life on the walls, especially on those facing the afternoon sun, were swarming with Orange Anthias. Water Temperature: 66F-73F. Visibility: 50 to 70 feet. Dive Time: 70 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: Moderate to Strong.
Pura Island. Night Dive near Tri-Top. The area for this dive was largely flat terrain with patches of sand and coral heads. This made for easy night diving terrain. Immediately upon entry there were several large nudibranchs. Sightings included several Decorator Crabs, a Spider Crab, more nudibranchs and flatworms, a pair of Flounders, and a Bob-Tailed Squid. Water Temperature: 75 to 77F. Visibility: 50 to 70 feet. Dive Time: 60 minutes. Maximum Depth: 40 feet. Current: None to Mild.
20 September 2004
Today we did three dives at Komba Island. Komba is a relatively small island Northeast of Flores. The island is a young volcano and active with sulfuric fumes and steam. The Pelagian had not conducted any dives at this island. The original plan was to do four dives but time ran a bit short and it was decided to leave after three dives.
The first dive was at an area opposite a lava flow. The dive was not very good. In fact, some people thought it was terrible. The bottom consisted of a slope composed of very light black sand with a few very scattered bits of coral. There were very few fish and one or two nudibranchs. Towards the end of the dive the slope became a near wall. The topography was interesting in that the sand could act as a river sliding down the slope into the depths. Water Temperature: 81F. Visibility: 40 to 70 feet. Dive Time: 70 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: None to Mild.
The second dive was around one of the points. While the amount of coral was greater the general area consisted of earth and sand. Visibility was very good and the topography was more varied and at times quite dramatic. Fish life was limited and what corals did exist were scattered and hard corals. Water Temperature: 81F. Visibility: 70 to 90 feet. Dive Time: 70 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: None to Mild.
The third dive was a crowd pleaser. There was a rich reef consisting of hard and soft corals. The hard corals dominated with a generous sprinkling of soft corals. Fish life was much more pronounced with a few Blue Fin Tuna, several types of nudibranchs, and a Nurse Shark well hidden under a ledge. The area ended in a ridge that was covered with small Table Top corals and a nice sandy bay. Water Temperature: 81F. Visibility: 70 to 90 feet. Dive Time: 73 minutes. Maximum Depth: 85 feet. Current: Mild to Moderate.