FWIW: Some observations from a 34 year body shop owner:
We do not chemically strip. Chemical strippers leave a film that primer absolutely will NOT adhere to. Since it has to be thoroughly sanded to get that film off anyway, we usually just sand the paint off. You could also media blast, but DO NOT use sand as it builds heat and surface tension. Plastic media or dry soda should be fine.
Once you have clean metal, use an etch or wash primer for both steel and aluminum. Sooner the better, especially on aluminum; the surface starts to oxidize immediately after sanding, so you want to get it covered. As mentioned in a previous post, the acid in these primers bite into the metal, and help prevent corrosion from creeping under the paint film if you get a nick or scratch.
Generally, topcoats do not adhere well to etch primers. Use a 2K primer or sealer over the etch primer. We use urethanes, but epoxies are good, too.
Topcoat with quality paint. Catalyzed products are far superior to air dry paints. Urethanes and polyurethanes are most common. Any auto paint jobber can walk you thru the stuff you need. It's best to use a system from substrate to topcoat so everything is compatible. I've seen mixed product lines delaminate.
All the 2K topcoats in the refinish market will "bake" at 140 degrees, and that's the temp most shops set their booth bake cycle. This is not really a bake; technically it's a force dry. All it does is speed up the chemical reaction in 2K products. I doubt refinish baking would have any effect on the integrity of a tank.
DO NOT powder coat. We're talking 3-400 degrees, and I wouldn't want to be breathing on that tank, and I sure wouldn't want to be the guy filling it.
We do not chemically strip. Chemical strippers leave a film that primer absolutely will NOT adhere to. Since it has to be thoroughly sanded to get that film off anyway, we usually just sand the paint off. You could also media blast, but DO NOT use sand as it builds heat and surface tension. Plastic media or dry soda should be fine.
Once you have clean metal, use an etch or wash primer for both steel and aluminum. Sooner the better, especially on aluminum; the surface starts to oxidize immediately after sanding, so you want to get it covered. As mentioned in a previous post, the acid in these primers bite into the metal, and help prevent corrosion from creeping under the paint film if you get a nick or scratch.
Generally, topcoats do not adhere well to etch primers. Use a 2K primer or sealer over the etch primer. We use urethanes, but epoxies are good, too.
Topcoat with quality paint. Catalyzed products are far superior to air dry paints. Urethanes and polyurethanes are most common. Any auto paint jobber can walk you thru the stuff you need. It's best to use a system from substrate to topcoat so everything is compatible. I've seen mixed product lines delaminate.
All the 2K topcoats in the refinish market will "bake" at 140 degrees, and that's the temp most shops set their booth bake cycle. This is not really a bake; technically it's a force dry. All it does is speed up the chemical reaction in 2K products. I doubt refinish baking would have any effect on the integrity of a tank.
DO NOT powder coat. We're talking 3-400 degrees, and I wouldn't want to be breathing on that tank, and I sure wouldn't want to be the guy filling it.
