P&S tips (with & without lenses)

[robzr]

I have a SD960IS with a UWL-100 wide angle and a UCL-165 macro lense, an HID and a strobe (fantasea remora). I took the camera and housing (no lenses) to a pool last night, first time shooting with a strobe before we head out to Chuuk/Palau/Yap on saturday. The pics were coming out quite dark, I had to crank E/V up to +1 to get a decent exposure, so I'm not sure if I'm doing it right?

I tried it with macro mode enabled to force it to f5.6 - but I don't understand what the point of this is, you'd think a lower f-stop would increase the amt. of light and brighten the picture up, so why does everyone say to force it to a high f-stop? I read that it cuts out ambient light, but if it holds the shutter open longer wouldn't that increase ambient light as the strobe only goes for a very short duration?

I used center-weighted average for metering - any thoughts on that?

Rob

 

[olyvtx]

I have a SD960IS with a UWL-100 wide angle and a UCL-165 macro lense, an HID and a strobe (fantasea remora). I took the camera and housing (no lenses) to a pool last night, first time shooting with a strobe before we head out to Chuuk/Palau/Yap on saturday. The pics were coming out quite dark, I had to crank E/V up to +1 to get a decent exposure, so I'm not sure if I'm doing it right?

What mode were you shooting in?

I tried it with macro mode enabled to force it to f5.6 - but I don't understand what the point of this is, you'd think a lower f-stop would increase the amt. of light and brighten the picture up, so why does everyone say to force it to a high f-stop? I read that it cuts out ambient light, but if it holds the shutter open longer wouldn't that increase ambient light as the strobe only goes for a very short duration?

I used center-weighted average for metering - any thoughts on that?

Rob

I think people say to use a higher f-stop to increase the depth of field in macro mode. With your strobes at max power output you should be able to use f8. You are correct that the shutter speed effects the amount of ambient light in your picture.

Did you try adjusting the strobe's power setting first to get brighter pictures?

 

[robzr]

Thanks for the reply. I had it in Program mode, thats the closest to manual I can do. I tried a couple different ISO settings I think I ended up using 200 or 400. I did find the right pre-flash setting (2) but next time I try it I'll shut off red-eye flash and try it with 0 pre-flash. I tried it in Macro mode and in Normal mode, but not "Mountain" (whatever it's called) mode - I wonder if that forces it to f2.8?

I tried a few flash settings and for the most part I had to run it on max-power (guide-number is 20, and the recycle time is slooooooooooooooow like 20 seconds. I'm going to try NiMH sounds like those might recycle faster than Alkaline?).

I was just suprised at how dark it was unless I forced up the EV. From looking at the EXIF data it looks like the shutter is constant at 1/60 in Program mode. Here's probably the best shot of the night:

P mode, ISO 200, 1/60, f2.8, flash at max setting AND I had to have the EV at +1.0 - why would I need EV +1 with all that?

 

[olyvtx]

I believe the camera keeps the shutter at 1/60s in flash mode, many do. The aperature opened all the way, so you've hit your limit there. The ISO is at 200, some room to change here. Was your ISO set to AUTO? You might try that.

definately turn off red-eye flash!

When your camera hits limits (ie. shutter fixed at 1/60, f-stop maxed at 2.8 and ISO manually set) it wont matter how much u change the eV setting, the camera cant give you any more. In the above senario, the only change you can do is increase the ISO, you're aperature is maxxed out, flash output is maxxed, shutter is fixed at 1/60. Actually increasing the shutter to 1/30s or longer would only increase the "ambiant light" component to your picture, not what is lit up by the strobe.

Im kinda surprised with the picture's exposure level given the parameters. That strobe must not have a lot of power for wide angle? You'll probably get better results with your macro photography because the strobe light will be much closer to your subject. Always get as close to your subject as you can.

 

[robzr]

Thanks for the tips! I had the ISO set manually. I did notice when I changed out the batteries in the flash to some freshly charged NiMH's, it recycles a lot faster - haven't been underwater again yet, but I wonder if the flash was getting weak because the batteries were alkalines and getting low.

I will leave it flash forced on, Program mode, and experiment with macro (f5.6) and normal (f2.8 I guess), red-eye turned off, and then alter the ISO if it's too dark.

If all that fails, I'll start wishing for a S90 update with high def video That FIX housing looks cooooooool...

Rob

 

[ScubaMarc]

is the strobe and the camera properly set to shoot. I do not know about the remora, but on the sea and sea strobes, you must tell the strobe when to shoot. The flash might be going off on the preflash and not on the shot. To check this, aim the camera at a mirror and take a picture. if the flash blows out the picture, then you have the right settings, else the strobe is not firing on time.

 

[olyvtx]

Thanks for the tips! I had the ISO set manually. I did notice when I changed out the batteries in the flash to some freshly charged NiMH's, it recycles a lot faster - haven't been underwater again yet, but I wonder if the flash was getting weak because the batteries were alkalines and getting low.

I will leave it flash forced on, Program mode, and experiment with macro (f5.6) and normal (f2.8 I guess), red-eye turned off, and then alter the ISO if it's too dark.

If all that fails, I'll start wishing for a S90 update with high def video That FIX housing looks cooooooool...

Rob

yeah, the strobe's batteries could have been the problem. 20secs to recharge is not normal.

What i would do is assemble your UW camera gear there at home and practice in your living room. Take pictures with various strobe's power settings and make sure you're seeing changes in the picture's brightness OR the picture's resulting aperature (assuming the camera's gonna remain at 1/60s shutter).

I usually have my strobes at minimal output and get good exposure for my macro stuff. If i take a wide angle or shoot something further away i have to increase the strobes output. With more practice you'll eventually get a feel for what your strobe's power setting needs to be at various distances.

 

[scottfiji]

yeah, the strobe's batteries could have been the problem. 20secs to recharge is not normal.

What i would do is assemble your UW camera gear there at home and practice in your living room. Take pictures with various strobe's power settings and make sure you're seeing changes in the picture's brightness OR the picture's resulting aperature (assuming the camera's gonna remain at 1/60s shutter).

I usually have my strobes at minimal output and get good exposure for my macro stuff. If i take a wide angle or shoot something further away i have to increase the strobes output. With more practice you'll eventually get a feel for what your strobe's power setting needs to be at various distances.

I would also follow this excellent advice.

FYI, with the cameras that I have used, EV only has an effect when shooting without the flash, not with a flash or strobe.

good luck,
Scott