Overcoming the E-PL3 1/160 flash sync limitation with Inon D2000 strobe

[amnong]

I’m using E-PL3 and Inon D2000 strobe. The E-PL3 is limited to max flash sync 1/160 even in manual mode, unless in RC mode is selected, yet RC mode does not seem to be supported by the Inon D2000 strobe at all.

The practical reasons for I see for using increased sync speed:

1. Macro: better sharpness shooting slightly moving objects (Pygmy's), or shooting is unsteady waters
2. WA and others: Better control of the darkness of the background, and possibly limiting the backscatter (I’m using only one strobe, therefore I’m having more difficulties to control the backscatter by aligning the strobe outside, like in the attached image)

Suggestions and workarounds are much appreciated.

Amnon

 

[chile7236]

RC mode only works with the UFL2 if I recall correctly

 

[ProfF]

Amnon,

I believe this is the main weakness of this camera. I tried to use strobes in manual mode and set the camera in RC mode. When shutter speed is faster than 1/200 you get only partial part of the frame. The problem is the way the "rolling" mechanical shutter works on this camera. Other cameras that use electronic shutter (AFAIK) and then do not have this limitation.

I suspect that there is no real work-around this problem, but would love to hear if something comes up...

Nir

 

[bvanant]

1/160 is pretty fast, particularly at small apertures, remember the strobe is way faster than the shutter speed. The shutter speed mostly controls the ambient. My understanding is that there is no fix short of using an oly strobe.
bill

 

[ProfF]

1/160 is pretty fast, particularly at small apertures, remember the strobe is way faster than the shutter speed. The shutter speed mostly controls the ambient. My understanding is that there is no fix short of using an oly strobe.
bill

160 is not very fast if you are in mid-day in the red sea. You need to go down to very small apertures if you want darker ambient light, and that limits your use of the strobes (you need more light to get proper exposure of a given subject and thus it as though you are working with lower strength strobes). I found 1/160 to be an improvement over the 1/60 of my previous camera (Canon G10) but still a limiting factor.

-Nir

 

[amnong]

Thank you chile7236, Nir and Bill. Controlling the ambient / background light is indeed what I find the main challenge to overcome with slow shutter speed.

Conducting several experiments to find a workaround, there is still something which I can’t explain:

• The setup: Camera in Manual mode, shutter speed above and below 1/160, strobe on manual and full modes (pre and non pre flash mode), switching through all various configurations of RC Mode
• The results: the internal flash in being triggered, the external strobe in being triggered as well, but the picture is dark regardless of the strobe power setting
• The question: To my understanding, if the strobe is on manual mode, as long as the strobe is being triggered, its intensity should be controlled solely by the strobe setting, regardless of the intensity of the triggering flash

Appreciate to get a hint what is getting wrong here.

Amnon

 

[chile7236]

Shutter speed "too fast" for strobe sync.

 

[PHIL RUDIN]

First you should have the RC mode turned OFF. This is for remote use with proprietary Olympus land strobes. Since the strobe will be firing in about 1/1000th to 1/2000th of a second 1/160th of a second sync speed is NOT "too fast" at all.

With the on camera strobe up and the fiber cord connected to the housing set tha camera flash to a manual setting like 1/8 or 1/16th or even 1/64th of a second, any of which should fire the strobe if it is turned on to a manual mode. For TTL set the strobe to S-TTL center the right knob so that it points up and set the camera flash to the lightning bolt. Set the lens at F/8 and focus on a sofa pillow or other object about two feet away then fire the camera. You should get a starting exposure and you can tweek from that starting point.

Phil Rudin

 

[chile7236]

oops. misread....for some reason, i thought i read 1/250 on the shutter. my bad.

 

[terson]

I've owned, and used, the EPL-2 with 2-3 Inon 2000's for a while now and the only way that I can find to get a black background is to either shoot at night or carry a black 'backing' sheet to put behind your subject.
My usual haunts are during full daylight and usually less than 10meters, so I rarely get the black backgrounds any more. . .:depressed:
I'm hoping that the new EPL-5 will raise the shutter speed the same as the EM5?
Bruce