Optimal settings for Oly C-5060 help?

[orangeBloke]

Some other notes on the set up of the 5060 where mine differed from Bbarnes.

When I was using mine I had the WB set to auto as if the strobe is being used so it
should be able to compensate correctly.

I'd also left the AF illuminator offas it can spook some fish, especially at night when it's more visible.

Finally I had the strobe set to Slave 1 as it wouldn't fire in Super Macro mode without it.

One other thing to do is not to use program mode. Use at least Aperture priority or shutter priority modes but better still learn how to use manual mode, you'll get far more photos you like that way.

From your two posted photos the second one looks like the strobe fired behind the subject. Can you adjust the angle of your strobe so more light falls on the subject? Another possibility is that the strobe didn't fire and it's catching the light from the masked off internal flash firing (assuming that you're synching with a fibre optic)

Play about with it and you'll get some great shots. I've just upgraded to a DSLR but as I'm still getting to grips with that properly the quality of my 5060 shots are still higher, it's a great little camera

Cheers

 

[Divmstr223]

Bbarnes, please pardon the question, but I also am a beginner with the Oly 5060, Oly housing, YSD90SX strobe. From reading the above, it looks to me that you are shooting in Jpeg, not raw?

What is the difference between shooting in Jpeg and Raw? I haven't delved that far into it yet to know any better...

 

[Warren_L]

IF the image setting is for SHQ, then it is not in RAW mode, but in one of the jpg formats. RAW mode outputs a data file containing the RAW sensor data (hence the name) which then requires further processing to produce a useable image. When you shoot in a jpg mode, the onboard software does the processing to produce the image. Shooting RAW gives the photographer a bit more control in the development process rather than relying on the camera's built in programming. There are certain benefits in the RAW format such as greater latitude in adjusting exposure, etc, as well as not having to set white balance as that can be done after the fact. The downside is that file sizes are generally larger and write times can be quite long (relative to jpg) and could quite possibly result in delays between successive shots.

edit:typo

 

[Divmstr223]

IF the image setting is for SHQ, then it is not in RAW mode, but in one of the jpg formats. RAW mode outputs a data file containing the RAW sensor data (hence the name) which then requires further processing to produce a useable image. When you shoot in a jpg mode, the onboard software does the processing to produce the image. Shooting RAW gives the photography a bit more control in the development process rather than relying on the camera's built in programming. There are certain benefits in the RAW format such as greater latitude in adjusting exposure, etc, as well as not having to set white balance as that can be done after the fact. The downside is that file sizes are generally larger and write times can be quite long (relative to jpg) and could quite possibly result in delays between successive shots.

Thanks Warren, appreciate the good info...

 

[Bbarnes]

Yes we shoot in JPeg.

 

[Dan Yuchnovicz]

Good description of RAW. However, the Oly software is inadequate for any serious post processing of the image. THe Oly plugin for Photoshop provides a few controls such as color temperature. You also need it so that Photoshop can read the Oly RAW file format. You realy want the full capabilities of Photoshop for post processing for their incredible tools like wb/grey point, etc.

If you are using manual mode and TTL exposure, most of the time JPEGs are fine. Good strobes will give you the proper color balance, exposure, etc. However, when shooting without strobes and using manual wb, RAW is very helpful because an additional amount of post processing is required to get anykind of pleasing shot. Also set your ISO at the lowest possible to reduce CCD noise (thar red,green and blue graininess you see in high ISO settings. THis assumes that you have a good strobe for the distance you are shooting.

Another though is that RAW is uncompressed as mentioned where as JPEG has some ammount of information loss during compression. SO if you intend to enlage a shot up beyond 8x10 or 8x11 RAW may be better. I haven't really looked at the difference though.

We use the ike housing and dual DS-125s in TTL mode - it was great because we now use the C7070 in the same C5060 housing. One last thing is that full time auto focus will drain a battery in about a dive (an hour say) where with autofocus you can make 3 or 4 1-hour dives. Strobes like Ikelite DS-125s can also shoot at least 300 shots in the macro to 4 foot ranger on a charge. However, the built-in modeling lites will probably take 50% off of the battery life. We carry a spare set of DS-125 batteries so I can change them on the boat - which is about the only thing that I would change on a boat in a humid, saltfog atmosphere! I seal the Ike housing in the air conditioning in the morning and don't open it until night. Having 2 gig of memory and deleting about half of what is shot right after it's shot helps (Oh no..not another fish butt!) ;-)
Dan