Olympus Pen Image Stabilizer setting recommendation

[gstrek]

I would totally agree that C-AF is much less useful than S-AF in the PEN line and with the EM-5. The EM-1 has very effective C-AF. I have used IS-1 with the entire line of Olympus mirrorless cameras and I have also used several Panasonic and Sony mirrorless cameras without stabilization. I have used lenses from the 8mm fisheye to the 60mm macro including some with lens stabilization both on and off. Without question the on sensor stabilization has worked best for me underwater. While you will see a big difference between the E-PL1 and the OM-D EM-1 stabilization to me it is still worth using.

Thanks, Phil. I have only shot with IS1 on but want to at least try turning it off. The softness I am seeing in many shots, I am pretty sure, is due to having RLS priority set to trigger even if not in focus. It is a never ending trial of keeping the center focus on the fish eye and then recompose and shoot. Many of my best fish butts are in focus!

 

[chris196]

I think RLS is probably your main issue.
I shoot an EPL2 usually with IS-1 on and S-AF. However I do not have RLS set to trigger if not in focus.
I mainly shoot the 9-18 and the 60mm. I'd say 90% of mine are keepers from the camera's perspective, but the photographer usually knocks it down to 10%.

 

[deeper thoughts]

I usually shoot at ISO 200, 1/125 at F8 to F11 with the 14-42 kit lens Raw+JPG, S-AF. center focus point, multi-pattern metering YS01 E-TTL and forced flash on the Oly E-PL1. Zoom is about mid range to 42 mm. I have a feeling that the lens may not be optimal at 42 mm, although most likely it is technique and not equipment - specifically not getting the correct focus point on an eye as the subject swims by.

Maybe the question is which focus type to use?

S-AF
C-AF
C-AF with tracking

S-AF using Back button focus - similar to S-AF except using the FN button (not default and requires some set up).

I haven't tried C-AF or C-AF with tracking but it seems to me that IF I got a focus lock on and eye, the tracking would follow the locked eye and refocus as needed (within reason).

Another thing I just checked: RLS S Priority set ON so the shutter would release even when NOT in focus. Now changed to OFF so release only when in focus.

---------- Post added January 5th, 2014 at 04:04 PM ----------

Back Button Focus - If anyone is interested in trying this out (you can Google around to find the pros and cons of BBF), I followed this article. I do like the decoupling of focus from the shutter release but still haven't tested under water.

Back Button Focus on the Olympus EP3

thnx.

 

[Taiki San]

I would totally agree that C-AF is much less useful than S-AF in the PEN line and with the EM-5. The EM-1 has very effective C-AF. I have used IS-1 with the entire line of Olympus mirrorless cameras and I have also used several Panasonic and Sony mirrorless cameras without stabilization. I have used lenses from the 8mm fisheye to the 60mm macro including some with lens stabilization both on and off. Without question the on sensor stabilization has worked best for me underwater. While you will see a big difference between the E-PL1 and the OM-D EM-1 stabilization to me it is still worth using.

Phil I think some of the older PENs have some trouble with their sensor stabilization. I noticed some strangeness in some of my shots:
This is a crop of an unedited RAW image taken at 1/180th with the 9-18mm @ 9mm. The dolphins were not moving very quickly. There is a weird fringe on the edge of the dorsal fin. The same sort of thing appears in a number of other pictures I've taken. For comparison the full size (edited) shot is here Cookie Cutter Dolphin | Flickr - Photo Sharing! Its not really noticeable in the full-size shot, but I don't like knowing that its there.

While trying to figure out what the cause of the fringe was I found some discussions of other people seeming to have issues with the IBIS on their PENs E-pl3: image stabilization defective?: Micro Four Thirds Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

After reading that I tried turning off the IS and the problem seems to have disappeared. Maybe coincidence, maybe not. In either case I don't think its a huge problem but it seems like you shouldn't really need much IS when shooting at 1/160th with a strobe anyway.

EDIT: First picture doesn't show as clearly what I'm talking about, so here's another example: 1/250th @ 9mm, notice the back of the dorsal fin.

 

[Tigerman]

That is a weirdness, however does it appear on other focal lengths? on a zoom lens the sharpness on the extreme ends is known to have potential issues..
Not saying its NOT the IS that cause it, just trying to rule out any other potential issues..

 

[gstrek]

While trying to figure out what the cause of the fringe was I found some discussions of other people seeming to have issues with the IBIS on their PENs E-pl3: image stabilization defective?: Micro Four Thirds Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

Interesting thread at DPREVIEW. Especially surprising that setting IS 3 seemed to resolve the 'blur issue'.

 

[Taiki San]

That is a weirdness, however does it appear on other focal lengths? on a zoom lens the sharpness on the extreme ends is known to have potential issues..
Not saying its NOT the IS that cause it, just trying to rule out any other potential issues..

Don't know about other focal lengths since I rarely shoot the 9-18 at anything other than 9mm, but I can say that both crops were roughly from the center of the image so I don't think the lens is the cause of the problem. I'm not entirely convinced the IS is the culprit, but like I said the problem seems to have disappeared after turning it off. Not a real rigorous test though.