Olympus Pen Image Stabilizer setting recommendation

[gstrek]

On my Pen E-PL1, I've been setting my Image Stabilizer setting to I.S. 1 when shooting underwater. I am not sure if I would be better off with it turned off (as you would when using a tripod). Since movements underwater are slower than camera shake on land, is IS. 1 (or 2 or 3) effective at all? Is it possible that turning on I.S. may introduce a problem (image blur or softness)?

I have not tested different I.S. setting while diving but will attempt to remember to try different settings on my next (as yet unplanned) dive trip.

Anybody have recommendations on this setting?

Thanks!
Gary

 

[sooke]

On my Pen E-PL1, I've been setting my Image Stabilizer setting to I.S. 1 when shooting underwater. I am not sure if I would be better off with it turned off (as you would when using a tripod). Since movements underwater are slower than camera shake on land, is IS. 1 (or 2 or 3) effective at all? Is it possible that turning on I.S. may introduce a problem (image blur or softness)?

I have not tested different I.S. setting while diving but will attempt to remember to try different settings on my next (as yet unplanned) dive trip.

Anybody have recommendations on this setting?

Thanks!
Gary

Most Oly Pen users I've talked to, (I use the EPL-5) leave Image Stabilizer at the default of IS1. This will let the camera engage full stabilization in all directions. jmtcw

 

[Tigerman]

not using the specific camera, but I'd say you'll have more than plenty of ways to mess up the pictures and the stabilizer is the least likely of them.
My WA dont have a stabilizer, but my macro does and stays on. I have enough pics turn out good to conclude that the ones that don't is due to the guy behind the camera rather than the IS

 

[gstrek]

Thank, I do use IS1 but have noticed some softness in several shots that may have several causes (IS is least likely!). Could have been a bit of fogging, missed focus as subject and/or photographer drifted among other operator errors. Another trial will be to use back button focus which I frequently use above water to hold the focus until ready to fire.

Gary

 

[Tigerman]

Softness can also come from your shooting settings. The f-stops can impact the softness of your shot quite a lot, which can be a challenge for macro shots. Too slow shutter speeds would of course also be a potential issue..

 

[gstrek]

I usually shoot at ISO 200, 1/125 at F8 to F11 with the 14-42 kit lens Raw+JPG, S-AF. center focus point, multi-pattern metering YS01 E-TTL and forced flash on the Oly E-PL1. Zoom is about mid range to 42 mm. I have a feeling that the lens may not be optimal at 42 mm, although most likely it is technique and not equipment - specifically not getting the correct focus point on an eye as the subject swims by.

Maybe the question is which focus type to use?

S-AF
C-AF
C-AF with tracking

S-AF using Back button focus - similar to S-AF except using the FN button (not default and requires some set up).

I haven't tried C-AF or C-AF with tracking but it seems to me that IF I got a focus lock on and eye, the tracking would follow the locked eye and refocus as needed (within reason).

Another thing I just checked: RLS S Priority set ON so the shutter would release even when NOT in focus. Now changed to OFF so release only when in focus.

---------- Post added January 5th, 2014 at 04:04 PM ----------

Back Button Focus - If anyone is interested in trying this out (you can Google around to find the pros and cons of BBF), I followed this article. I do like the decoupling of focus from the shutter release but still haven't tested under water.

Back Button Focus on the Olympus EP3

 

[Taiki San]

Gstrek -

You definitely don't want to use C-AF with an E-PL1. While in theory it sounds great, in practice any camera using contrast detection auto-focus (most mirrorless cameras) will have poor tracking capability. S-AF should work well in most situations. I only use back button focus for macro shots and it is definitely very useful there. I shoot an E-PL3 and I recently turned the IS off for all my shots. The E-PL3 seems to have some troubles with the IS creating some soft shots. I'm not sure if the E-PL1 has the same problem, but when you are shooting at 1/125 or faster there shouldn't be too much of a need for IS anyway.

In summary, I would recommend shooting S-AF with the IS OFF for most shooting, good luck!

 

[victor]

Gstrek -

You definitely don't want to use C-AF with an E-PL1. While in theory it sounds great, in practice any camera using contrast detection auto-focus (most mirrorless cameras) will have poor tracking capability. S-AF should work well in most situations. I only use back button focus for macro shots and it is definitely very useful there. I shoot an E-PL3 and I recently turned the IS off for all my shots. The E-PL3 seems to have some troubles with the IS creating some soft shots. I'm not sure if the E-PL1 has the same problem, but when you are shooting at 1/125 or faster there shouldn't be too much of a need for IS anyway.

In summary, I would recommend shooting S-AF with the IS OFF for most shooting, good luck!

I wish I had read this before my Christmas trip.
Now I need to try and remember this for the next trip.
Maybe I can find a pool where I can switch down the lights and try things out.

 

[gstrek]

Gstrek -

You definitely don't want to use C-AF with an E-PL1. While in theory it sounds great, in practice any camera using contrast detection auto-focus (most mirrorless cameras) will have poor tracking capability. S-AF should work well in most situations. I only use back button focus for macro shots and it is definitely very useful there. I shoot an E-PL3 and I recently turned the IS off for all my shots. The E-PL3 seems to have some troubles with the IS creating some soft shots. I'm not sure if the E-PL1 has the same problem, but when you are shooting at 1/125 or faster there shouldn't be too much of a need for IS anyway.

In summary, I would recommend shooting S-AF with the IS OFF for most shooting, good luck!

Thank you, Takai San.

I suspected a possible issue with IS underwater and since I shoot at 1/125 to 1/160, I will disable it.

In my shooting around the house with C-AF (and BBF), the E-PL1 was constantly hunting and many/most shots were not in focus. C-AF is a non-starter on the E-PL1 for me.

The other setting issue that I had was with RLS S Priority set to on which allowed the shutter to trigger without a focus lock. That is now set to OFF. I hope that in combination with IS turned off will improve the 'softness' and number of in focus images.

 

[PHIL RUDIN]

I would totally agree that C-AF is much less useful than S-AF in the PEN line and with the EM-5. The EM-1 has very effective C-AF. I have used IS-1 with the entire line of Olympus mirrorless cameras and I have also used several Panasonic and Sony mirrorless cameras without stabilization. I have used lenses from the 8mm fisheye to the 60mm macro including some with lens stabilization both on and off. Without question the on sensor stabilization has worked best for me underwater. While you will see a big difference between the E-PL1 and the OM-D EM-1 stabilization to me it is still worth using.