Oceanic DataMax Sport O-ring Size

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jacked_72

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Location
Dallas, TX
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I just don't log dives
Does anyone know the proper o-ring size from the Oceanic DataMax Sport dive computer. This is the later model that has the user replacable battery and the screw-in battery cover. My computer dates from 1995. I'm sure that there are a bunch of other names for this computer including the Sherwood Source. I bought an oring at my LDS and they sold me the wrong size so I wound up having to buy the $20 kit in order to get the $.30 o-ring. I'm good for the time being, but I'm just looking for the proper o-ring size for the future. I've seen some other posts discussing the right size for the later Oceanic computers, but not this one.

Thanks.
 
Take a ruler and measure inside and outside diameter. My data plus of about the same vintage takes an -023.
 
Take your o ring to the o ring shop or the bearing shop or the seal shop, the one without the flippers.
 
For the Oceanic Datamax Sport without the "replaceable" battery, you would use a 2-033 o-ring. That's 1/16" cross section and 2" ID. This is the Datamax that you have to unscrew the outer bezel to get to the inside as shown in this site under "datamax-sport-battery-replacement"

Also, the battery (TL2150 1/2AA Lithium 3.6volt) for the older unit can be purchased at amazon. Search for "Saft LS-14250 1/2 AA 3.6V Lithium Primary Battery for Mac computers".

Before removing the old battery, jumper in a new battery to the terminals so the unit remains powered up while changing the battery.
 
Two questions? I answered at least one myself.

#1 Do you know which way the battery faces?

I decided to just try the direction we remebered and it worked. The positive terminal is on the right when the battery slot is at the bottom of the device. I'll post pictures when I put in the new battery.

#2 What do you do to 'reset' if you didn't know to jumper first?

I don't think you need to jumper the old battery UNLESS you don't want to dump data. Since this model doesn't hold very many 'dives' it is probably not an issue. The reason why I think this is: when I put the old battery back in, it had sat outside the unit (fully resting) for at least 24 hours. Guess what? After the test sequence the unit went into normal surface mode with a flashing 'low batt' warning. Likely the fading out right after the test sequence is a function of either battery life or pulse capacity. An old battery will have diminished pulse capacity, but giving it a rest from ALL current drain will improve that temporarily.

Conclusion: As soon as the new Taidan battery arrives I will install it (taking pictures of each step), submerge the unit and verify normal function and then report on either sucess or continued problems. If this solves the problem I will start a new thread compiling the useful information from the 3 or 4 threads on the subject for future users.

I've ordered a Taidan battery to match what Oceanic used (actually I've order a higher capacity with the same specs 50mAh continuous and 100mAh pulse). Since I'm replacing like for like if I end up with the same problem that many others are reporting it is probably the loss of power causing the problems. Has anyone gotten any help from Oceanic on this?
 
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For the Oceanic Datamax Sport without the "replaceable" battery, you would use a 2-033 o-ring. That's 1/16" cross section and 2" ID. This is the Datamax that you have to unscrew the outer bezel to get to the inside as shown in this site under "datamax-sport-battery-replacement"

Also, the battery (TL2150 1/2AA Lithium 3.6volt) for the older unit can be purchased at amazon. Search for "Saft LS-14250 1/2 AA 3.6V Lithium Primary Battery for Mac computers".

Before removing the old battery, jumper in a new battery to the terminals so the unit remains powered up while changing the battery.

Having done all I recommended, my Datamax Sport died anyway. I ended up purchasing an inexpensive Aeris unit to replace it. For $150 and a 20 year newer unit, it was worth it.
 
I replaced the battery in the old Oceanic DataMax Sport with an identical one as described in my previous post. It has been pool tested and functions like it should.

What I have learned:
1. Process is easy. Unscrew bezel, remove battery, replace battery, re-silcon the o-ring, screw on bezel. Don't need to jumper or anything special.
2. Be careful which brand battery you use. Make sure the peak draw is sufficent. The OEM battery IS available (12-2010)
3. Re-silicon the o-ring
4. Have fun. Don't let the LDS tell you it is junk, or that the battery can't be replaced.

I'll post photos when I can
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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