Nitrox Compatible Lube Sources and the Necessity of Using for Ambient Chamber

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I’d like to know if there are PFAS-free alternatives that are also O2 safe
 
Bought a 2 oz syringe of the Cristo-lube MCG111 way back in 2017 for $37 via Ebay. Ran out yesterday filling the ambient chamber in the wife's T1x and was shocked to see the latest prices. That got me to questioning the actual need for it in that chamber since it doesn't see any gas and is only a space filler. That 2 oz syringe lasted me over a dozen rebuilds until I got the Atomics and their voluminous void they want filled. Seems generic silicone grease would suffice there, saving the expensive stuff for the internals. Anyone have a source for Cristo-lube and thoughts on using something other then that for the environmental space? Seems $45/oz is a going rate. thanks
In the title of the thread you say ‘nitrox compatible’ if you’re talking about using recreational nitrox, 36% or less, you can use silicone with no fear.

Then again, if you have to replace your Christolube every 8 years, I don’t think it’s going to send you to the poor house. Especially considering you bought an Atomic titanium regulator, lol! Speaking of which, why are you packing the chamber of a titanium regulator….is it for very cold water use? Because I don’t think you’d need it to help prevent corrosion in that regulator.

You only need the PTFE grease when you are dealing with O2 concentrations above 40%. I realize Atomic specifies Christolube, but if you simply don’t pack the chamber and leave the sealing boot off, it should work absolutely fine. If you are dead set on packing the chamber and also want to avoid silicone, try the cheaper tribolube version that’s for packing chambers. It’s a little less insane price-wise.

I think I have a tube of Christolube that’s even older than yours. But I’ve never used it to pack chambers, only to lubricate o-rings.
 
who sells tribolube 71 is larger quantities than the 2 Oz tubes/syringes? Between the wife and I, we've got 8 Atomic first stages that get sealed at service.
Woah, the cost of packing all of these can almost buy a whole other 1st

I’d also would like to know

@iain/hsm you teased us with the tub of cristolube clone on the other thread — any legible sources?
 
In the title of the thread you say ‘nitrox compatible’ if you’re talking about using recreational nitrox, 36% or less, you can use silicone with no fear.

Then again, if you have to replace your Christolube every 8 years, I don’t think it’s going to send you to the poor house. Especially considering you bought an Atomic titanium regulator, lol! Speaking of which, why are you packing the chamber of a titanium regulator….is it for very cold water use? Because I don’t think you’d need it to help prevent corrosion in that regulator.

You only need the PTFE grease when you are dealing with O2 concentrations above 40%. I realize Atomic specifies Christolube, but if you simply don’t pack the chamber and leave the sealing boot off, it should work absolutely fine. If you are dead set on packing the chamber and also want to avoid silicone, try the cheaper tribolube version that’s for packing chambers. It’s a little less insane price-wise.

I think I have a tube of Christolube that’s even older than yours. But I’ve never used it to pack chambers, only to lubricate o-rings.
yeah i''ve questioned the actual need for filling that beyond keeping it isolated from the sand/grit. It's never going to be used for cold water and being titanium & monel, shouldn't need the corrosion protection as long as it gets a good soak post-dive. Putting ~$20 of Cristolube seems a waste
 
If I only dove clean water, without lots of suspended silt and sand (SoCal beach dives), I would not seal my Ti Atomics. I still soak for hours, but if unsealed I would flush the environmental chamber with fresh water thoroughly.

I once bought a local T2X that was unsealed, and apart from the Monel piston needing some polishing to make it like new, the titanium was fine. Probably rinsed well by the previous owner. Then again, well sealed Atomic titanium regs that are treated well and are serviced as the manufacturer intended, will work like new in decades. My 1st stages are from the late-1990s and will outlast me no matter how many dives I manage to put on them.
 
If I only dove clean water, without lots of suspended silt and sand (SoCal beach dives), I would not seal my Ti Atomics. I still soak for hours, but if unsealed I would flush the environmental chamber with fresh water thoroughly.

I once bought a local T2X that was unsealed, and apart from the Monel piston needing some polishing to make it like new, the titanium was fine. Probably rinsed well by the previous owner. Then again, well sealed Atomic titanium regs that are treated well and are serviced as the manufacturer intended, will work like new in decades. My 1st stages are from the late-1990s and will outlast me no matter how many dives I manage to put on them.
I'm sure the HP seals appreciate being isolated and kept clean but still not seeing a definitive need for it. I'll put a light film on the piston and a bead around the interfaces and call it a day. That and a thorough soak will be as much love as I'll give it for this cycle
 
I am not understanding the "cross-contamination" argument some have made here, especially in the context of affecting a fill station.

I can understand that if the ambient chamber is filled with a non-O2 compatible lube/substance, the piston o-ring will effectively slide against the ambient chamber wall which could allow the substance to creep/migrate into the intermediate pressure area ahead of the piston head and contaminate that area....but that would only affect the areas down stream of the piston, the 2nd stages and their hoses.

How is that an issue on the high pressure end of the 1st stage? The non-o2 lube/substance Is not at the tank to first stage interface so how would there be a contamination issue/consideration at the fill station to tank interface?

-Z
 
I’ve seen unsealed piston (mk25) severely scratched from shore diving in ca. down to the brass, pretty sure titanium is a bit softer than chrome but like George said you only boat dive in water with nice viz sealing is an unnecessary expense. I just use a MK 17 to solve the issue for my use, it would really tick me off if they made a ti 17.
 

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