NiMh battery problems!

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Not to beat the horse either but I never have said they were drained, I have said their voltage has dropped below the threshold that the camera is set to accept and therefore the low voltage warning. Frankly, I don't follow your point but I am sure you have one and will explain it. :wink:

N
I can only conclude that with the length and repetitiveness of my posts, you've tuned them out :( !! My point was simply that the small improvement that the low-discharge batteries offer shouldn't have been an (undisclosed) requirement for a few camera models here and there. That it has become so is seeming evidence of poor engineering, though I'm here to find out different if that's the case.

If you look at the 100mA, 500mA, and 1000mA discharge curves on the Eneloop site, the 0.4V improvement offered by the Eneloop at 2000mA (the graph in your post), is much less or disappears at 1000mA or below. Maybe that's a critical difference that just can't be engineered around under the loads the camera imposes. Maybe. NiMH and NiCd batteries have been around for decades, are the component designers just now waking up to their voltage profiles?

Aren't there a lot of cameras that work fine with standard AA NiMH batteries, esp where 4 cells are used, like your A640? When one model here or there can't, that's a camera problem wouldn't you say? When I first got an Oly SP-350, there was a firmware update needed to make it work better with NiMH AAs - to me that says shoddy engineering.

I'm headed out and this risks cannibalizing even more of the morning. Until later...
 
I have been testing a whole bunch of batteries and an old A570. Using a calibrated power supply as the power source instead of batteries to see what is going on. On the battery testing side, I don't get curves that show as much separation between high capacity NiMH and low internal discharge that Sanyo shows at all. BUT for high rate charging the story is way worse, the high capacity batteries really suck.
More to come.
BVA
 
I have been testing a whole bunch of batteries and an old A570. Using a calibrated power supply as the power source instead of batteries to see what is going on. On the battery testing side, I don't get curves that show as much separation between high capacity NiMH and low internal discharge that Sanyo shows at all. BUT for high rate charging the story is way worse, the high capacity batteries really suck.
More to come.
BVA

Why does this not surprise me? Thanks.
 
Several new observations. Using an old 570, the battery cutoff is around 2.3 V (2 x 1.15) and much higher than on some of the newer Canon cameras. Interestingly when the current from the power supply is measured, charging the flash takes quite a bit of current. One other point, the contacts on the 570 must be made of some semiconductor material since the voltage drop from the battery compartment to the board is quite large.

On the battery side, someone suggested that the Kodak low internal discharge batteries were Eneloops, probably not since the Kodak ones are made in China. Data is being gathered but it takes two hours to test a single battery at 1A discharge so not as fast as I would like.

Bill
 
Hi,
I am using a PowerShot A570IS and decided to buy a set or rechargeable batteries for it. The user manual say use canons NiMH but it shouldn't matter if you buy another brand right? They all have 1.2V and its only the capacity that differs. I went to the supermarket and bought a energizer charger with 4 energizer rechargables (2450mAh). I charged them with the charger overnight and on the morning it had turned off as it should. I put the batteries in the camera and about 5 min later the low battery came on and 5 min later it turned of and told me I should change batteries! So what happened? I turned on CHDK and checked the voltage and it was between 2.4 and 2.5 as it should with NiMH, so is the camera not designed for 1.2V batteries or why does it turn off. I cleaned the battery connectors on the camera but no difference. Anyway I will try to return the charger today and get my money back and if you guys say it should work with NiMH I will go for Sanyo Eneloop because of the low discharge rate. Anyone tried these?

Thanks for any help!
Niclas


I have many many sets of sanyo eneloop batteries for my A570IS and I had the exact same problem as you. The sanyo batteries fixed the problem very well. I recommend them highly :)
 
Several new observations. Using an old 570, the battery cutoff is around 2.3 V (2 x 1.15) and much higher than on some of the newer Canon cameras. Interestingly when the current from the power supply is measured, charging the flash takes quite a bit of current. One other point, the contacts on the 570 must be made of some semiconductor material since the voltage drop from the battery compartment to the board is quite large.

On the battery side, someone suggested that the Kodak low internal discharge batteries were Eneloops, probably not since the Kodak ones are made in China. Data is being gathered but it takes two hours to test a single battery at 1A discharge so not as fast as I would like.

Bill

I realize this thread hasn't been touched in a while... but your findings make alot of sense.

1) If the Low Voltage Cutoff (Lvc) is 2.3 this means that the circuitry is probably designed with this as the minimum input voltage. Electronics typically run at 3v, 5v, and 9v and all circuits have input regulation to help protect from bad current sources. A good set of rechargeable batteries is going to start at 2.4v and if you hit it hard 5 or 6 times (flash) then pulling voltage down to 2.3v is very easy to see. The defining question would be to identify what the current consumption is for a flash charge cycle and then integrate that into testing. Most testing is done with constant discharge loads which is nice, but not realistic. Variable current demands are more the norm in most applications.

2) Alkaline and Lithium cells deliver a nominal 1.5v which means 3v and they drop off around 1.1v so setting your cutoff voltage for 1.15 per cell is a tad higher than the cutoff.

3) This helps to explain the move to Lion batteries which deliver extremely consistent voltage but can't be fully discharged. Lion also has a higher energy density yielding longer run times.

4) The slightly flatter voltage curve on the Eneloops would also explain why they are able to deliver a little more voltage and a little more current over a longer period. The lower internal resistance is as much as a factor of 10 from what I read. That would have a impact on the voltage being delivered. So while both cells can deliver power the voltage would drop.

5) Lastly, I suspect that as the batteries heat up the internal resistance changes. Again, to gather realistic data the batteries might need to be in a warm environment or be insulated and then hit several times. While it would bad for the case, it would be easy enough to run thin probe wires into a housing and fire the flash 5 or 6 times to observe what is going on with temperature profile, current demand, and voltage.

6) Strobes aren't as reliable as a comparison because it is essentially a capacitor charging system. Capacitors are much more tolerant of voltage differences and can easily work with 1v/cell. On the other hand, our cameras are actually embedded computers. As such they have logic circuits that depend on very precise voltages being present. Typically transistors work with either Negative, nothing, or Positive voltages and use 2 of the 3. Most computers work with -5 and +5 for their zero and 1 where as lower function computers use 0 and +5. the 3v ecology is very similiar. The core issue is that voltage fluctuations push the boundaries closer and can cause the electronics to make a mistake. So the demanding voltage requirements actually make a lot of sense.

7) I think this is one of those things where we sometimes just have to bite the bullet and pay a little more. When you look at all of the costs in going diving somewhere the batteries are really a minor cost. Diving is one of those hobbies like fishing where you can get some enjoyment out of it but the cost justification can be embarassing. The cost per pound of "free" fish makes a nice dinner at a restaurant look affordable. Likewise, the cost of the batteries is really incidental when compared to the cost of engaging in the supporting activity, diving. Furthermore, the end cost of getting it wrong is to experience battery failure during your dive which means you lose a dive and increase your "Dive Time Cost" or DTC.

DTC is this metric I came up with that basically boils down the cost of the equipment, training, and travel into a cost per hour (or minute) of actualy underwater time. DTC can be used to determine if a given piece of gear is a good purchase. Something that lowers your DTC is then justifyable. Fortunately I'm single and don't have to take that to the "honey-do" committee that meets at DWA (Dive Widow's Anonymous).

Nonetheless, I appreciate everyone's contributions to this. I was looking for confirmation that the Eneloops wasn't just marketing nonsense. In the process this thread answered a long running curiosity. I have a 2001 vintage Pentax Digital SLR that likes photo batteries and will run on AA alkaline or lithium but refuses to use NiMh batteries.
 
My A570is started out fine with Energizer 2600 mAH NiMH batteries. They worked great, until I flooded my camera. The batteries and camera were trashed. Batteries in newer A570is have never lasted nearly as long as in the first camera. However, I have not been able to find the same batteries, either. Recent purchases of standard NiMH batteries have been disasters. A full charge has not lasted two dives, in some instances reducing me to 10-15 photos per dive. The "standard" NiMH batteries seem to have gotten worse with respect to their discharge rate. Several times, batteries charged during an afternoon have been insufficient for even one dive the next morning. That's pathetic. So, on the suggestion of folks here, I bought some of the Energizer lower spontaneous discharge batteries. These functioned fine on our last trip. I was able to take as many photos per dive as I wanted on two tank trips.
 
As someone who like to investigate things myself I admire greatly Bvanant's scientific rigor and willingness to research this, good job.

That said, the Duracell Pre-charged and Eneloop Low Discharge cells do work and over and over there are testimonials to this fact that they work better than the standard cells and even better than the high cap cells in many cameras and similar devices.

Why, who cares, they just do.

N
 
As someone who like to investigate things myself I admire greatly Bvanant's scientific rigor and willingness to research this, good job.

That said, the Duracell Pre-charged and Eneloop Low Discharge cells do work and over and over there are testimonials to this fact that they work better than the standard cells and even better than the high cap cells in many cameras and similar devices.

Why, who cares, they just do.

N

In fact they work far better than I had bet when I started the investigation. A full report is coming on the various low internal discharge batteries that I was able to find. Bottom line is that any low internal discharge battery worked better than most of the standard NiMH.

Unfortunately when someone says we don't know why it works, I see that as a kind of challenge to find out why. I was originally quite skeptical but now am convinced.

Bill
 
I noticed when I looked it up that there is a wide range of quality in battery cells. One thing that was interesting is that Energizer and other well known brands tended to overdeliver and underpromise on their capacities. Many so called high-capacity batteries didn't deliver good results and I think they were just scamming.Rechargeable Battery Review-AA NIMH BATTERY PERFORMANCE REVEALED. CHECK THIS OUT This URL has a list of the major battery manufacturers and the results of the test. It might shock you to see what is going on.

There is a documented relationship between state of charge and voltage so that is the only reasonable way to read the charge state.

I suspect that the IC being used for voltage regulation has a limit to what it can boost. The circuit probably is designed for 3v operation and has a minimum input voltage to operate. Some voltage regulators are capable of providing a modest boost to the incoming current. The alternative current regulation scheme is to either switch or resist the incoming current down to the voltage needed. Switching is what most PC's do and resistor based voltage regulation is old and wasteful. Therefore a transistor based regulator is the only logical device that would do the trick.

Bvanant, if you have opened the camera up can your techs look around and see what the voltage regulator is? A simple circuit trace should lead right from the battery to the voltage regulator. The voltage regulator is very likely to tell us what is going on and Canon will likelyl be using an off the shelf component that is surface mount. Surface mount is impossible to repair but saves space and uses less energy.

Wikipedia has a great page on batteries: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_(electricity) With detailed comparisons of the different types. If what I saw there is correct NiZn (nickel zinc) will replace Nimh as the battery of choice.
 
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