Nikon iTTL settings w/DS125...?

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likelite

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Hey folks, I confess I'm having some issues with my flash setup. Specifically, I'm always having to dial down the flash power...It just doesn't feel like I've got true TTL with this thing.

Anyone got tips for fine-tuning the Nike's internal flash settings so it'll work properly?
 
I'm not sure I follow what you are trying to do. If you are using iTTL with a DS-125, how/why are you using the internal flash?
 
likelite:
Hey folks, I confess I'm having some issues with my flash setup. Specifically, I'm always having to dial down the flash power...It just doesn't feel like I've got true TTL with this thing.

Anyone got tips for fine-tuning the Nike's internal flash settings so it'll work properly?

Setting? A, M, S? P?

Lens? (presume macro.) It happens when the strobes are closer to the subject than the lens.

Exposure (the right hand little button by the shutter release)... be sure its not in the + range... that will overexpose things

ASA? Manual or Auto?



You need to share a bit more. Post an image, give us an Exif, what are the cam settings at the time of the shot, lens, etc.

Lots of smart Ike / Nikon people here (like the NIKE... cute) someone will be able to assist if you send more info over.
 
likelite:
Hey folks, I confess I'm having some issues with my flash setup. Specifically, I'm always having to dial down the flash power...It just doesn't feel like I've got true TTL with this thing.

Anyone got tips for fine-tuning the Nike's internal flash settings so it'll work properly?

The iTTL is all in the IKE Housing. I'm not sure of the exact implementation, but the only flash control on camera is the exposure compensation for the internal flash. That *COULD* also impact the iTTL of the IKE, but I don't have an Ike TTL flash. I will determine if it does change exposure when mounting an external flash on the hot shoe. I kinda doubt it because the SB800/600 both have exposure compensation ON the flash.

You can run an easy test topside. Put your kit together, and do some test shots. Put the housing on something (ground, chair, tripod if possible), aim it at some subject maybe three feet away, set the camera in manual mode maybe 1/125, ISO 200, F4. Take a shot, and review the histogram. Now up the aperture one stop at a time to maybe f11 taking a shot or two at each aperture. Review the histograms of all shots, and they *should* be about the same. Do this indoors in a room not flooded by sunlight so ambiant light is not a big factor.

If your historgrams show a stop less exposure as you decrease the aperture (stop down) then your flash TTL is not working properly. You could also test the exposure compensation in the same way shooting at -2~-1~0~+1~+2. The historgram should show less exposure as exposure compensation is decreased, and more when increased.

The fact that you can *dial down* the exposure is a good indication that your TTL is working.

I'd suggest you may have the strobes too close to the subject and/or you are shooting using an aperture that may be to open/wide.

The strobe output is limited by design... :11doh: In other words the strobe has a minumum output, maybe 25WS (guess). Regardless of TTL or anything else, you will not be able to reduce the amount of strobe power lower than it's minimum output.

Hope this helps...
 
Hmmmm. Good post Ron. Thanks.
 
One thing that wasn’t mentioned above was to check the settings on the housing iTTL interface. There is a switch on the side to change from DS50 to DS125. If you are using both the DS125 and the DS50 together, the setting must be put to the DS50 setting.
 
Check the serial number of your DS-125. You can find the serial number next to where you plug in the charger. Any Ikelite DS-125 substrobe that has a serial number at 4999 or less will require a circuitry update to operate with optimum TTL performance. If your strobe falls into this category then give Ikelite a call http://www.ikelite.com/ and they will tell you exactly what the update involves.
 

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