Nikon 18-55VR vs, 35mm 1.8 on D7000 with ikelite and 6" dome

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

SailNaked

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
1,075
Reaction score
109
Location
between 30° and 10°
# of dives
500 - 999
I like to shoot up close, I do not like to bother the fish, but also cant stand a great shot except for the back scatter.

I occasionally take pictures of my friends behind something of interest rarely or ever like pictures from a distance of something large.


My first DSLR and it will be a D7000 (unless someone has a good reason against). probably an ikelite case cause they have been great in the past - Recommendations welcome.

I like the speed of the f1.8 35mm but then the flexibility or the 18-55 seems good also. is there another lens I should be looking at.
 
You can find used metal housings, ports etc at the classifieds in Wet Pixel. Sometimes these go for about 50% off especially if you are willing to buy the whole system. I have the D7000 with a nauticam port. I really like the nauticam port. Ikelite makes a perfectly good system. But by its nature, it is more unwieldly than a metal housing because it is larger and the controls are not as precise.

You could probably use either the 35 mm lens or the 18-55. You probably will need to get a diopter on the lens to make it focus in the port. Usually the 8" port works better on the margins.

With the DX sensor, the 35 mm lens will look like a 52 mm lens. That would be a good mid range prime lens. But I just don't know how close you could focus with it. I am not keen on that application.

The 18-55 is a decent lens and it has the range to take shots of other divers, fish and so on. So it would be a decent inexpensive choice.

The two most recommended lenses for the Nikon D7000 are the Nikon 60 mm Micro (macro) lens. This lens is superb optically. It shoots true macro so it is good for shots of shrimp, arrow crabs, sea horses etc. It is also good for small to medium sized fish. A problem with this lens is that for 1:1, you have to get pretty close so some more wary subjects are hard to shoot. Also, you really can not use it for supermacro. For supermacro using the Nikon 105 micro is the way to go but it is a more specialized lens.

The other lens of choice is the Tokina 10-17 fisheye lens. This lens has a really close focusing distance so you can use it with a really small port of 4". You can also have a small subject in the foreground and landscape in the background. Also, you can take nice shots of divers with this lens. I discovered that it even works very well on the dive boat. The lens does bend all the lines but on a dive boat with everyone looking a bit goofy bent lines kind of add to the vibe in my way of thinking. Since 17 us the longest this lens shoots, if you want photos of fish, you have to be almost on top of them. Most fish will not tolerate this.

Now I also have the Sigma 17-70 macro. It really is not a true macro lens. It just allows nice close up shooting. The lens has a wide range which makes it quite flexible for everything from divers to close ups to landscapes to large fish. It really shines for large fish meaning angel fish and on up. You can shoot this lens with a 6" port but like most lenses it works better with an 8" port.

Some people like rectilinear lenses like the Nikon 12-24 for taking shots of divers and landscapes. I have not tried one of these yet. They have the advantage of not bending lines. You would use them with a large dome and a diopter filter. I think if you want over/under shots, one of these would work the best. I have also heard that they are well liked for shark photos.
 
I have used the 35mm lens, but not the 18-55. I have a 35mm f2.0 which is the old version. Focus is close enough to work in a dome with the standard spacer. It will also work behind a standard flat port. The dome will give you slightly wider view. The 35mm is good for fish portraits, small schools and people, but for something as large as a person, you'll need to be about 8-10 feet away, which means the vis will have to be quite good. I've had good results with the lens for fish portraits and small schools, but it lacks the versatility of a zoom. I've seen some very nice pictures, both macro and semi wide with the 18-55, but I've never used it either on land or underwater.
Here is a thread with some samples taken with the 35mm f2.0 in a flat port. It focuses to about 8" from the sensor, so about 3-4" from the port.
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/underwater-photography/329104-monterey-pics-3-27-10-a.html
 
I have the MicroNikkor 60mm D and 105mm D lenses as well as the wonderful Tokina 10-17 mm but on tropical reefs with good visibility, I mainly use the older Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6G ED II AF-S DX with a +4 diopter in Ikelites 5503.50 port (The newer 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR AF-S DX lens uses the same port but a +2 diopter instead of +4). With this set-up, I am able to take nice shots of everything from smallish fishes to sharks, turtles, rays etc. It is an amazingly versatile set-up with good optics.
 
I have an 18-55 which has not been used in a few years. It is a reasonable lens for shooting certain fish, divers etc., but for true close ups you really need the micro lenses (60/85/105).

Sea&Sea have a flat port for this lens and it works very well without any diopter.
 
For a dry land wide angle Nikon DX mount I'd look at the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 (rectilinear, also close focusing) before the 10-17mm fisheye -- or anything else for that matter. But that's just me.

That said, I don't know what port options you'd have for the Ike housing for that lens. It might be worth researching.
 
For a dry land wide angle Nikon DX mount I'd look at the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 (rectilinear, also close focusing) before the 10-17mm fisheye -- or anything else for that matter. But that's just me.

That said, I don't know what port options you'd have for the Ike housing for that lens. It might be worth researching.

Ikelite recommend the standard 6" dome port with a +2 diopter for the Tokina 11-16mm lens. It is a superb lens for use on land but I'm sure most underwater photographers would consider the 10-17mm fisheye much better for use underwater. It is a lot wider (180 degrees instead of 104), focuses closer (14cm instead of 30cm) and has a much greater zoom range. Combined with a 1.4x teleconverter and behind a 4" minidome, it also enables you to take nice CFWA and WAM shots. The barrel distortion ("fisheye effect") is seldom a problem underwater, even with wreck photos.
 
Thanks, all great information well said!!! I have been trying to get shots of those little red and white shrimp with a cannon D11 (100 fails) and I have no idea what the effective lens is on that, but I also do not want to miss any shark or turtle shots. Seems I need something that can make a shrimp large at maybe 1 ft and maybe get a diver at 6-10ft. ordered the D7000 today and continuing my lens research. then on to housing and ports.
 
Both these shots were taken with the Tokina 10-17

UAE_8652MCsig.jpg


UAE_8792Csig_zps0aa20562.jpg
 
Hello,
I have got a d7000 and 28mm f2.8, 10-17 tokina, 50mm f1.8;
28 mm is very easy and funny;
10-17 is difficult: 180° angle is...the world;
it need more time and the time, in diving, is always not much.
50 mm is a... macro lens. I use it with extension tube ( 20-32) mm manual focus.
This want your good overing and you can do macro only.
I have a metal housing and I use the dome 4".5 + 16mm extension for 10-17.
And a flat for 28 and 50.
This is all.
GOOD LUCK
K
I'm sorry for my bad English.
 

Back
Top Bottom