Doc Harry / Stiebs - if you are willing to detail what steps you did to get those results on the pics with just the one shark it would be greatly appreciated. I spent 2 hours trying to replicate in GIMP and not getting anywhere near those despite watching various youtubes!
Gimp is great, but IMO has a much steeper learning curve than other photo editing software. I have spent much time over the past two decades seeking out free and cheap alternatives, but ultimately the time and effort I spend trying to find cheaper software well outweighs the cost of good software.
There is a reason Lightroom and Photoshop are ubiquitous in the photo editing world. Although I use Lightroom extensively, I have shifted to Affinity Photo which although still more expensive than Gimp, doesn't use Adobe's inescapable subscription model, is much closer to the Photoshop experience than the Gimp experience.
Anyway, with that out the way, the overall process is similar no matter what software you use. There are a number of techniques that can be applied, with varying levels of improvement and complexity.
First and foremost is white balance. Choose your whitebalance "eyedropper" or "target" tool and select a spot on the photo which you want to appear as a neutral gray colour. You can then adjust colour temperature and tint to your liking.
At this stage you should have reasonable colour, but it will likely still feel a little washed out, so you want to adjust your brightness and contrast. This often means darkening the darks and blacks.
This is where the method for applying adjustments will differ between software. With something like Lightroom, you just tweak the sliders. With Photoshop or Gimp, you want to add adjustment layers. Adjusting the actual image instead of using an adjustment layer means you will lose colour information in the photo, and will also not be able to make tweaks after you make subsequent adjustments.
I'm not sure what filters Gimp has these days, but you may be able to apply a "dehaze" filter which is small amounts can be quite effective, but it very easily gives an "overprocessed" look.
Then it's colour curve adjustment (again, with an adjustment layer). Here you can adjust the dark/mid/light shadows for each colour individually. Usually means increasing the reds and decreasing the blue/green, depending on the water.
Another option is hue and saturation adjustment. You'll have limited success in overall adjustment, but by subtle shifts in the hue and saturation of individual colours, you can get good results.