New TG-6 Setup

[skl007]

First, yea - I agree totally with the advice to ditch the wide angle. Now if you can afford it, get it now, but if it's a financial toss-up, go with one strobe.

I bought a wide-angle lens for an earlier outfit (Canon A570 in Ikelite housing) and have used it about... twice. We just don't get enough days where I really need a wide angle shot here, but then I am a 'critter photographer' and swimming rock fish are just as good on macro.

If it's a wet lens, you can put it on underwater (I did) or else get the camera & lens wet before you splash and install it. Sometimes underwater you have to remove & replace it to get a bubble of air out. You want 100% water between a wet lens and the housing glass.

As for the strobe, TTL is as simple as a) buying a strobe that supports TTL. The Inon S2000 (and the Z330) support TTL 'out of the box'. The TG6 supports TTL, so enabling TTL with the Oly TG6 is as simple as turning on the flash on the camera (there's even a quick button for that). You do need an optical sync cord connected between camera and strobe. On my TG6 with Inon S2000, I use 'fill in flash' as it gives me the desired effect, although 'full auto' does also work.

Backscatter actually has an awesome set of videos all about setting up a TG6 for underwater shooting, as well as video on setting up the strobe.

As always, take test shots out of the water to ensure it's all working before you get wet. Nothing worse that messing up the setup (lens cap inside a port anyone) and finding out underwater.

Hmm, I'll probably grab both then.

Do you leave the video light on when you go to actually take the shot?

 

[sunnyboy]

Hmm, I'll probably grab both then.

Do you leave the video light on when you go to actually take the shot?

Yea. The Big Blue has multiple video power settings, so I usually leave it on 25% for focus. I find it doesn't affect the shot because TTL flash will take the video light into account.

If you use the light on bright, then the flash really is just a fill. I'll set the strobe at one side so it gives depth to the shot. Video alone (esp. head on) give a kind of flat photo. The strobe adds shadow.

 

[skl007]

Yea. The Big Blue has multiple video power settings, so I usually leave it on 25% for focus. I find it doesn't affect the shot because TTL flash will take the video light into account.

If you use the light on bright, then the flash really is just a fill. I'll set the strobe at one side so it gives depth to the shot. Video alone (esp. head on) give a kind of flat photo. The strobe adds shadow.

Perfect! Looks like I'm going to have an identical setup to yours. Thanks for all the help!

 

[BalekFekete]

First, for the other person watching, I have a Z240 that I use on my big camera rig, and I would never put it on my Oly TG6 rig simply because of it's size. My TG6 rig is all about 'small and compact' so the small Inon S2000 strobe is perfect.

Thanks for this feedback - percisely what I wanted to hear. Going to start with the single S2000 and add another once I get more confortable diving with an actual rig (vs. the GoPro on a handle only).

 

[nippurmagnum]

Great advice for the wet wide angle! I was thinking that I would shoot little creatures without the lens, and to use the lens for stuff like GPO and wider shots while on dive trips. Are you able to have the lens on before you get into the water? I was under the impression that you had to mount the lens while submerged to get the optics right...

You do have to "burp" the wet lens every time you get in the water with the lens installed in the camera. Any air bubbles will severely distort the image. When you get in the water, you need to unscrew the wet lens, and shake both the wet lens AND the camera vigorously to get ride of all bubbles. Don't assume that just because you've opened the wet lens, the bubbles have all popped away or risen to the surface -- in fact, it is 100 percent guaranteed that some bubbles remain without a vigorous shake. The same is true, for that matter, when you enter the water with the camera even without a wet lens on -- some air bubbles will remain on the lens of the camera housing, and you need to shake vigorously to get rid of them. Always shake rather than trying to get rid of the bubbles with your hand, especially a gloved hand -- because if you have any sand in your fingers, you run the risk of scratching the glass elements.

So you may be wondering, if you have to burp the wet lens anyway, what's the point of entering the water with it screwed on the camera? For me, it's mainly about avoiding jumping or doing a shore entry with the wide angle lens in my clipped pouch, as the jump might case me to bang the lens against something. If the lens is on my camera, and my camera is in my hands, I am more conscious of protecting the lens from impact.

By the way, if you have the money to buy both the M52 lens and the air lens, I'd say by all means buy both. The M52 lens is absolutely delightful for wreck and marine landscape pictures.

 

[nippurmagnum]

First, yea - I agree totally with the advice to ditch the wide angle. Now if you can afford it, get it now, but if it's a financial toss-up, go with one strobe.

I bought a wide-angle lens for an earlier outfit (Canon A570 in Ikelite housing) and have used it about... twice. We just don't get enough days where I really need a wide angle shot here, but then I am a 'critter photographer' and swimming rock fish are just as good on macro.

If it's a wet lens, you can put it on underwater (I did) or else get the camera & lens wet before you splash and install it. Sometimes underwater you have to remove & replace it to get a bubble of air out. You want 100% water between a wet lens and the housing glass.

As for the strobe, TTL is as simple as a) buying a strobe that supports TTL. The Inon S2000 (and the Z330) support TTL 'out of the box'. The TG6 supports TTL, so enabling TTL with the Oly TG6 is as simple as turning on the flash on the camera (there's even a quick button for that). You do need an optical sync cord connected between camera and strobe. On my TG6 with Inon S2000, I use 'fill in flash' as it gives me the desired effect, although 'full auto' does also work.

Backscatter actually has an awesome set of videos all about setting up a TG6 for underwater shooting, as well as video on setting up the strobe.

As always, take test shots out of the water to ensure it's all working before you get wet. Nothing worse that messing up the setup (lens cap inside a port anyone) and finding out underwater.

I second the suggestion to watch the Backscatter videos, they are hugely helpful in getting the most out of the TG6. (I don't have any business connection with Backscatter, I'm just a satisfied customer. Whether you buy from them or not, watch the videos anyway, they are free.)

Personally, I don't like to use strobes, I prefer the simplicity and WYSIWYG aspect of shooting with video lights. I am not looking to make a living out of underwater photography, so I don't really need the full color saturation or freezing of action that strobes provide, and I love knowing that I'll get reliably decent (if not National Geographic quality) shots underwater, while fellow divers with $15,000 rigs often come out of the water complaining that their cables got loose, their lights overpowered their subject, the lighting was not distributed as they'd imagined, etc. Not to mention that I don't have $15,000 to spend on a rig. Having recently done a Red Sea liveaboard with my TG-5 kit, I don't recall ever thinking "God, I wish I'd had a strobe on that shot."

 

[skl007]

You do have to "burp" the wet lens every time you get in the water with the lens installed in the camera. Any air bubbles will severely distort the image. When you get in the water, you need to unscrew the wet lens, and shake both the wet lens AND the camera vigorously to get ride of all bubbles. Don't assume that just because you've opened the wet lens, the bubbles have all popped away or risen to the surface -- in fact, it is 100 percent guaranteed that some bubbles remain without a vigorous shake. The same is true, for that matter, when you enter the water with the camera even without a wet lens on -- some air bubbles will remain on the lens of the camera housing, and you need to shake vigorously to get rid of them. Always shake rather than trying to get rid of the bubbles with your hand, especially a gloved hand -- because if you have any sand in your fingers, you run the risk of scratching the glass elements.

So you may be wondering, if you have to burp the wet lens anyway, what's the point of entering the water with it screwed on the camera? For me, it's mainly about avoiding jumping or doing a shore entry with the wide angle lens in my clipped pouch, as the jump might case me to bang the lens against something. If the lens is on my camera, and my camera is in my hands, I am more conscious of protecting the lens from impact.

By the way, if you have the money to buy both the M52 lens and the air lens, I'd say by all means buy both. The M52 lens is absolutely delightful for wreck and marine landscape pictures.

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I ordered the wide wet angle lens and a strobe for now. I guess you do the remounting and shaking of your lens and camera after you've finished your descent. Good tip, I would have 100% had bubbles all over my image otherwise.

I second the suggestion to watch the Backscatter videos, they are hugely helpful in getting the most out of the TG6. (I don't have any business connection with Backscatter, I'm just a satisfied customer. Whether you buy from them or not, watch the videos anyway, they are free.)

Personally, I don't like to use strobes, I prefer the simplicity and WYSIWYG aspect of shooting with video lights. I am not looking to make a living out of underwater photography, so I don't really need the full color saturation or freezing of action that strobes provide, and I love knowing that I'll get reliably decent (if not National Geographic quality) shots underwater, while fellow divers with $15,000 rigs often come out of the water complaining that their cables got loose, their lights overpowered their subject, the lighting was not distributed as they'd imagined, etc. Not to mention that I don't have $15,000 to spend on a rig. Having recently done a Red Sea liveaboard with my TG-5 kit, I don't recall ever thinking "God, I wish I'd had a strobe on that shot."

I've definitely watched the backscatter videos, a few times. It's too bad that they don't cover anything besides macro, but hey, that's what the TG-6 was designed for anyway. I think the strobe will be nice for non-macro shots if I'm in the tropics, and hey, maybe I'll like it for macro over the video light. I do like to print out and frame photos I've taken, so the extra quality boost from the strobe will definitely come in handy.

 

[undrwtr1]

I'm in the same boat skl007 - used to use an Olympus 3040 in an Ikelite housing with dual DS50s many moons ago, but decided I'd rather enjoy the dive rather than hunting for photo ops (wife complaints). Fast forward, I had a GoPro with GoBe lights over the past few years but just wasn't satisfied with the results. Now, I have treated myself to a TG-6 with PT059 and dual Sea & Sea YS-03s. I was torn over the ease of the video lights, but I have a couple of L&M Solas (2000) to compare results. Went with YS-03s because TTL alone is fine with me (and they were on sale). Picked up the Backscatter "Air" lens as well.

I'm not man enough anymore to even think of going to Dutch Springs for the New Year's Day dive, but a few years ago I would have joined you!!! I have a trip in February and we will see how all of the new toys work out. As an added purchase, I got the Stix buoyancy floats for the ULCS arms because I recall sore arms after multiple, multi-dive days with the old Olympus and am hoping to get everything near neutral.

Looking forward to your impressions/results!!! Good luck.

Gerry

 

[BalekFekete]

Order in. Final setup will be...

Olympus TG-6
PT-059 housing
M52 Wide Angle Air Lens
Inon S-2000
Ikelite action tray II & handle (single for now)
5" and 8" Ultralite arms

Can't wait to get it all set up and dive with it in Grenada next month.

 

[skl007]

Order in. Final setup will be...

Olympus TG-6
PT-059 housing
M52 Wide Angle Air Lens
Inon S-2000
Ikelite action tray II & handle (single for now)
5" and 8" Ultralite arms

Can't wait to get it all set up and dive with it in Grenada next month.

Good idea, my final setup:
TG-6 and PT-059 housing
Backscatter M52 wide angle wet lens
Spare battery & external charger
Kraken dual handle tray
4 clamps
5" double ball arm segment
8" double ball arm segment
Big Blue AL2600XWP
Inon S-2000