NEW* Halcyon Flare LED handheld/cordless primary

[buddhasummer]

Love the Focus, except for the power switch. It works great, it just feels like the switch could break. It is brighter than the UWLD 15 I used before, light is where i want it not all over. Being able to adjust the pattern, which is well defined is a huge plus for me. It is brighter than 21w HIDs and punches well through murk, unlike other LEDs I've used. I would buy another if they came out with a brighter model. Its not as bright as some of the other brands higher power offerings, it is a lot of light that works well in many very different environments.

The Flare is basically a Focus without an adjustable beam pattern and set to a pattern that is similar to my UWLD without all the spill.

The DRIS 1000 is a nice light and I use them as a backups. I've used it as a backup primary, it is not as bright or focused as the other lights and doesn't cut thought murk very well. It is bright enough to use as a solid backup in tech/cave diving or as a primary in clear open water diving. I've used it as a primary in caves but its quickly overpowered by the other divers lights (including those mentioned above), especially in darker caves.
I suspect the actual lumens to be around 650-700. Its about as bright as my old Dive Rite 10w HID with the LED upgrade was (old upgrade).

Thank you for taking the time to post in detail, appreciated.

 

[tbone1004]

is the Focus brighter than your UWLD 15 or is it just a tighter spot? Going from 6 on the LD15 to the 4 on the Focus would make for a significant difference in intensity and would offset the lumen advantage that the LD15 has if that is what you're looking for.

 

[eelnoraa]

...
I suspect the actual lumens to be around 650-700. Its about as bright as my old Dive Rite 10w HID with the LED upgrade was (old upgrade).

This, you are referring to H Focus, right?

there is absolutely no way DRIS1000 with 3C cell can do 650lumen and still give a meaning full runtime.

 

[Jack Hammer]

is the Focus brighter than your UWLD 15 or is it just a tighter spot? Going from 6 on the LD15 to the 4 on the Focus would make for a significant difference in intensity and would offset the lumen advantage that the LD15 has if that is what you're looking for.

I should elaborate, the UWLD is brighter up close but the light is more scattered - more like a video light, just not as wide. Its not as good for signaling and doesn't light things up as far away. Still it is very nice, just not for me. I have friends with Bobby's LD26 and they love it.

The Focus has a even well defined beam at all patterns, it puts more light where I want it. For example, diving The Pit in Mexico, from the surface I was able to light up areas ~100' below me on the tightest beam (I rarely keep it at this setting) enough to see what I was looking at, though not clearly. With my UWLD I wouldnt be able to see the light on the bottom. In some of the massive tunnel areas of other caves I kept it on the widest setting and was able to see quite a bit, but brighter was needed.

I'll try to pull some screen shots from video I took.

---------- Post added September 10th, 2015 at 09:18 PM ----------

This, you are referring to H Focus, right?

there is absolutely no way DRIS1000 with 3C cell can do 650lumen and still give a meaning full runtime.

Nope, the DRIS1000. I don't know what what the components are or the specs on paper. I can tell you it is brighter than 350 lumens and slightly brighter than a 10w HID. I don't know those exact specs either. I can't tell you the available run time, ive never tested it. The most I've used one for was just under 2 hours. I changed batteries after that. I've mostly used when my primary died in cave (battery didn't get charged on UWLD15 and died) or when comparing lights brightness during a dive.

---------- Post added September 10th, 2015 at 10:46 PM ----------

Oops, my light is a ld13 not a LD15. IIRC, the difference is similar amounts of light output but Ld13 is more focused and LD15 is more dispersed. The rest still applies.


Im too lazy at the moment to go through 20+ hours of video to find some long shots without the video light on. also feeling way too lazy to set up some shots outside. So here is a quick picture of the lights in question from about 10' back from the wall.

Left to right - Ld13, focus (set to tightest beam), dris1000.

The LD13 puts out more light in person than the DRIS1000, but it is more spread out and hazy so it looks softer.

Sent via

 

[ScubaInChicago]

Oops, my light is a ld13 not a LD15. IIRC, the difference is similar amounts of light output but Ld13 is more focused and LD15 is more dispersed. The rest still applies.


Im too lazy at the moment to go through 20+ hours of video to find some long shots without the video light on. also feeling way too lazy to set up some shots outside. So here is a quick picture of the lights in question from about 10' back from the wall.

Left to right - Ld13, focus (set to tightest beam), dris1000.

The LD13 puts out more light in person than the DRIS1000, but it is more spread out and hazy so it looks softer.

Sent via

Does the focus always have that weird diamond shape? That would drive me crazy on my walls.

 

[lucca brassi]

in water beam should be tighter

Does the focus always have that weird diamond shape? That would drive me crazy on my walls.

No that is ok because fresnel lense project image of emiter die on walls. It can be disruptive because they can be also visualized bonding wires on die .

As i ''know'' focus have some mirror to distorted that shape but at the same time it lose consequently lose some light .

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Recently I have upgraded my backups from CREE XP-G2 to XP-L (same size , but a bit larger die and more power from 5 W to 10W ) but I'll put back XP-G2 led because of reflections from die i don't like ( Sphere is clipped to the square )

 

[buddhasummer]

Yes, my Mb-sub lights also are square (LED) shaped due to fresnel lens. It's not generally noticeable under water.