New Fisheye Tray

[ReyeR]

if you dont mind would posting what this set up costs and a break down of the parts need.

To be clear I hope you're asking about my setup, a picture of which I posted in the start of this topic, and NOT the one in this link: http://wetpixel.com/reviews/d60_sea...26_000345_1.htm - which is Eric Cheng's Canon D60 setup.
Camera and housing
- Olympus C5050Z ~$???
- Olympus PT015 ~$170
- Fisheye Tray with dual handles (Oct 2003) ~$125
For each side you'll need:
- Ultralight BA-AQW (ball adapter the screws on tray grip) ~$25
- Ultralight arm segments (I use two: a 5" and 8")
- Ultralight double clamps (3x if you use two segments)
- Ultralight strobe adapter ~$215 for the set
Strobes
- Ikelite DS125, DS50; Sea and Sea YS90DX, Inon D180, Z220, Z220s ~$500 - $800
- Ikelite Manual or TTL sensor; or Sea and Sea and Inon Fibre Optical sets
Accessories:
- AA NiMH batteries + charger
- Memory cards: xD and/or CF
- Ikelite Smart charger if your using the DS125

If you're using the Ikelite strobes you'll also need some way to mount the sensor.

 

[ReyeR]

what are the dimesions of this set up because this looks like a item that wont fit in the cabin as carry on in a pelican case

I never check the camera, housing or strobes in, so the Pelican case seems like an overkill for me. I use a LowePro style backpack and it's small enough to carry on as cabin luggage. Easy to carry, frees your hands and doesn't look intimidating to the security staff...

 

[ReyeR]

I had a little brain wave yesterday - I'm going to order my DS125's from the U.S., and oddly enough, it's cheaper to buy the strobes and controllers WITH the standard Ikelite Arms than without them. I'll take a hacksaw to one of the spare arms and chop off two equal length pieces which I can use to mount the controllers.

Yes, that's what I did too. Ike is practically giving the standard arms for free. I did think of using the hacksaw too, and that is a possibility.

Would putting the TTL controller sensitivity on "max" help

No it will not help. Think about it: the TTL sensor can get confused between the camera's flash going on and off, the manual strobe going on and off, and light reflected back from the scene itself. So unless you can very accurately aim the TTL sensor at the manual strobe and 'shut out' the other influences, it'll be a PITA. Your other options are:
- use the TTL sensor but switch the strobe to a maunal setting (full, 1/2 etc);
- use the strobe in TTL and use the manual strobe as a fill by selecting an output on the manual controller; or
- get a second manual controller

 

[chippy]

Do you think it maybe better to go with 2 manual controllers?

I'm quite happy with my fstops, shutter speeds and mostly use manual mode on my camera anyway. Manual seems more likely to provide consistant results too from what I've read, and experienced with my DS50.

I'd still need to mount the controllers somewhere accessible, but wouldn't be quite so critical as with TTL?

Maybe I should get two manuals, try them out, and if I decide I still want a TTL I can scavange my DS50 TTL controller. I can then sell off the DS50 with the manual controller.

decisions, decisions