New diver - questions and thoughts on regulator setup

[noah977]

Hi,

I'm a newly certified PADI OW diver. (With a massive 8 open water dives in total!) Believe in doing my homework before investing in gear.

I'm starting to look at regulator setups. Will probably dive the "standard PADI" setup (as opposed to long hose) for now. 95% of my dives will be in warm water SE Asia.

All the local dive shops here aggressively push scubapro brand stuff. I have no doubt the quality is great, but wonder if it is worth the price. Not being a professional diver, I may not need something that heavy duty.

My planed setup is to have regulator and octo on one side, with analog pressure/depth gauges on console AND a dive computer transmitter. I like the dive computer wireless feature, but also really like having analog gauges as a backup. So, having HP ports configured that will fit everything is important. (I've read that some regulators have a bad design where the transmitter blocks several of the LP ports.)

I'm also considering buying a DIN regulator with a Yoke adapter. That way, I'll have the most flexibility when I travel.

Key features for me are reliability and comfort. (couldn't care less about "style", or extra bells and whistles.)

Some models I'm look at are:

• Atomic Z2
• Hollis DC1/212
• ScubaPro MK21/S560
• AquaLung Titan

It seems like a lot of the tech divers lean toward the Hollis. Not sure why, just an observation.

The SP packages is clearly the most expensive. Is it really worth the extra money?

Any and all comments and thoughts are welcome.

Thanks!

 

[halocline]

In my opinion, you're making three mistakes:

1. Using a console rather than a wrist mount computer
2. Dismissing the long hose
3. Planning on a DIN reg with a DIN/yoke adapter

As far as regulator brand goes, the truth is they're all good and it doesn't make much difference. Just get something that is fairly simple in design and can be serviced conveniently. Of the four you listed, I'd probably avoid the hollis but any of the other three would be absolutely fine.

But don't get a DIN regulator unless you are going to be using DIN tanks. This is really simple, get the regulator that fits the tanks you will be primarily using, period. Both DIN and yoke work perfectly well for recreational settings. And once you put a yoke adapter on a DIN reg, you lose EVERY theoretical advantage of DIN and add two disadvantages. Buying a DIN reg to use on yoke tanks is a big mistake.

The console bit is another mistake IMO, but if you want to carry around a clunky brick with un-necessary instruments on it, it's your decision. I would suggest a simple brass/glass SPG on a 24" hose, clipped to the left hip D ring of your BC. Then get a wrist computer. If you want to save money, don't get a wireless air integrated computer, but it's your money so spend it as you wish. There's nothing wrong with the AI computers, but they don't really offer anything significant either IMO. With some dive experience, you won't need to check your air pressure very often, so reaching down for an SPG is hardly a big effort. You will want to check depth/time very frequently, so the wrist computer makes that much easier. You don't need a back up analog depth gauge, just dive with a buddy. His will work. I personally like to have a back up time device, I use a regular analog dive watch. I want to be able to time a nice long safety stop in the event the computer goes tits-up. I can estimate 10-15 feet of depth quite easily and so can most divers, in the unfortunate event that you're stranded on a stop by yourself.

The long hose vs the stupid PADI set up is another issue, but the good news is that it's an easy mistake to fix, you just dive with the 'standard' set up until one of several things happens: 1) You get tired of the constant push-pull on your regulator by a short primary, 2) You get tired of trying to secure the alternate with one of those little plastic gizmos, 3) You get tired of the big loops of hose, or 4) You get your regulator snatched from your mouth by an out-of-air diver, leaving you to share air on a 28-30" hose while searching for your alternate. When any of those things happen, you just buy new hoses and move on. That's what most of we long-hosers did.

Have fun!

 

[decompression]

See above.....ditto.

I would also side with AquaLung or Scubapro regs for service almost anywhere and the lower price regs are not much different than the big bucks. The Titans are bulletproof and economical.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ChemGuy]

Im new OW diver as well. I bought some standard "rec gear", alt air inflator, console, etc. I now have a long hose, BP/W, wrist mount for computer and compass and single SPG with bolt snap.
Even if you want to dive a BCD jacket, get a wrist mount compass and computer and an SPG with a snap. Having to retrieve the stupid console, look at computer/gauge, snap it off again and repeat is annoying. When you are ascending/descending having your inflator in left hand and computer on right wrist is the way to go. Same with navigating. using a console sucks.

BTW I bought lightly used Scubapro regs, had them serviced and they breath great (mk 25/S600). Always an option if someone is selling gear near you.

 

[tbone1004]

following halocline

1. don't do that. consoles=bad. Don't do it. Wrist computer + SPG =vastly superior
2. don't care, don't use a long hose unless I'm in an overhead. BUT
SCUBA Diving Equipment for Technical, Sidemount, Rebreather, Wreck and Cave Diving: Dive Rite, Inc - Product Catalog - XT Advanced Open Water
That is the best new OW hose setup out there. Go with that. It's better, safer, and more adaptable.
3. if you only have yoke available, buy yoke. If you have 200bar convertible valves available, go DIN. Most regs can be converted back and forth.

specific regs


Atomic Z2-fine, pretty standard, but I'd go M1 over Z2
Hollis DC1/212-don't like it, Dive Rite XT is much more versatile and higher quality imho
ScubaPro MK21/S560-crap, don't buy it. If you're paying for Scubapro, buy real ones. These are cheap regs designed to fill a gap that doesn't exist so Scubapro can have umpteen million reg designs. MK25/S600 or MK25/G260 are the only ones that I would ever recommend. The MK21 removes the hose routing advantages of the 25, and the S560 has a plastic barrel-bad news. I would go G250/260 over S600 personally, but to each his own. Point is, don't buy the MK21 first stage, and don't buy the S560 second, no matter what any shop tells you.
AquaLung Titan- If you're buying Aqualung, buy Apeks DST/XTX50 combo's. A bit more money, but you can buy them used all day pretty cheap. The ATX50 is fine for 99% of divers and the first stages are identical. Only difference in the seconds is the changeable exhaust t's, reversible design, and aesthetics. The Titan removes a whole lot of hose routing options from you.

Opinionated, yes, but don't waste your money on stuff that you don't want/need. Also consider buying used if possible, save a bunch of money, don't have any real losses otherwise. Warranties are nice, but they're hunks of metal, not much to go wrong that would ever be covered by warranty. If the dealer screws up during service, they have to replace it. If you screw up during service, they won't cover it anyway, so you're SoL

 

[redacted]

Unless you just have $$$ to burn, hoseless AI is an unnecessary expense that provides nothing other than bells and whistles. Because you know your dive plan and that computer does not, you can do a better job managing gas and NDLs than it can with just a little extra mental effort.

 

[seeker242]

The SP packages is clearly the most expensive. Is it really worth the extra money?

I didn't think so that's why I went with the Atomic Z3. Which is basically a Z2 with a swivel. I don't have a transmitter but I could easily fit one without blocking any ports. I also didn't like a whole console, too big and clunky.

 

[Centrals]

1. I have never came across any operators in SE Asia that do not provide tank for A-clamp(yoke). DIN is not that common.
2. Computer + spg is all I need for recreational or tec dive.
3. Long hose is NOT an up-grade on your primary hose.
4. I only use Apeks but they are expensive in HK nowadays. DS-4(1st stage) is slightly cheaper than DST.
Deepstop - Tauchshop f has a complete Apeks set for under Euro 450 + shipping. They "might" change it to Yoke at no extra cost if you ask ahead.
BTW, I have been using the same DS-4 + TX50 since 1998.

 

[noah977]

Wow,

You guys have given me a lot to think about, and some great advice. Looks like I'll be changing my plan and going for something smarter/more streamlined than the standard PADI setup.

I just found that dive gear express sells some "streamlined" packages designed for a DIR style setup where you donate main air, and have the backup around your neck. Based on what everyone wrote here, that seems to make sense.

---------- Post added October 30th, 2015 at 07:12 PM ----------

1. I have never came across any operators in SE Asia that do not provide tank for A-clamp(yoke). DIN is not that common.
2. Computer + spg is all I need for recreational or tec dive.
3. Long hose is NOT an up-grade on your primary hose.
4. I only use Apeks but they are expensive in HK nowadays. DS-4(1st stage) is slightly cheaper than DST.
Deepstop - Tauchshop f has a complete Apeks set for under Euro 450 + shipping. They "might" change it to Yoke at no extra cost if you ask ahead.
BTW, I have been using the same DS-4 + TX50 since 1998.

Just had a look at that link you shared. The package with the XTX 50 sure has nice pricing. I did notice that these are specifically cold-water rigs. Is there any reason you chose that?

 

[uncfnp]

Noah977. You have gotten some great info from experts. Now for some suggestions from a mostly warm water rec diver.

I have a mix of aqualung and scubapro. No complaints of either. Just make sure whatever you go with you can get serviced by someone/lds you feel comfortable with. I have Scubapro S555 and 600 seconds. The metal barrels are better but if the other is what you can afford they are still great regs. If you really get into diving, you will eventually own a small dive shop so I wouldn't get too stressed about making the perfect choice for your first set. As halocline said, they are all good and will do the job.

DIN vs Yoke. Get the connection you dive. Probably yoke. Most regs can be converted later to DIN if your diving needs change.

As for computers, definitely wrist mount. I started with console and dove that for years before I switched. No plans to go back. Took me a little longer to convince my buddy. He was concerned he would forget the wrist computer on a dive. He finally switched and loves it. Just make sure when you are gearing up to put the computer on your BCD/d-ring until you are ready to put on wrist. Between dives, loop it on the D-ring so you can't splash without it.

Now hose setup. I started with the standard rig. As I advanced in dives and interested in caves, I tried the long hose. Still have that for cave but for recreational I prefer the 36 to 44 inch hose routed under the arm with bungee backup. I am tired of posting a pic of myself but if you look at my profile pic you will see what I mean. Tbone linked a similar rig.