Need advice on EM1 + Nauticam system

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There is no set rules on how to pick the lens and ports, but why would i prefer a dome port when i am shooting supermacro?

end of the day as long as you are happy with your choice, that is what it matters.
 
There is no set rules on how to pick the lens and ports, but why would i prefer a dome port when i am shooting supermacro?

end of the day as long as you are happy with your choice, that is what it matters.

understand. I always think about minimizing no of ports. Need to adjust my mind set.
 
I remember when I started out taking pics, the desire to have lots of flexibility to take wide and macro underwater seemed very compelling. I'd try to take pictures of anything and everything... 60-80 pics a dive, only by chance would I get a decent pic. As I got more experienced, I spent more time thinking of the shots I want and setting up the camera specifically for that shot. I think I take 20-30 shots per dive now and i'm much happier w the results. Too much flexibility can be a bad thing. I pretty much just use 2 lenses now, 60mm macro and 8mm fisheye. I used to use the 9-18, but i've been really enjoying the fisheye, personal preference. For the 12-50, its an ok lens, but I couldnt bring myself to pay $800 for a port, not because it has quality glass, but because Oly decided on a funky interface. Its a neat engineering solution for a problem that shouldn't have existed. The 60mm macro is a great lens. The 60mn and 8mm fisheye are the 2 best reasons to use MFT over other mirrorless underwater IMO.
 
The reduction of ports is a great advantage of the 4" semi dome. I use the Zen dome on an oly housing and the versatility is nice.
I pretty much only use the 9-18 or the 60. I agree with watboy in that choosing the lens and sticking with it for a dive is actually nice as you're not jumping around from subject to subject with a bunch of mediocre shots.
I do wish at times I had the fisheye, but that would involve changing ports. The versatility of the 4" dome is amazing in what it can do. It can also handle the kit 14-42 lens, but I rarely use that lens. If the 12-50 had a way to electronically zoom, I would probably give it a try, but I have a feeling I'd still use the 9-18 and 60 90% of the time.

BTW, the 9-18 is quite versatile as it can focus very close. So, if there is a small, not shy subject then the 18mm (36 equiv) can do a decent job.
 
I remember when I started out taking pics, the desire to have lots of flexibility to take wide and macro underwater seemed very compelling. I'd try to take pictures of anything and everything... 60-80 pics a dive, only by chance would I get a decent pic. As I got more experienced, I spent more time thinking of the shots I want and setting up the camera specifically for that shot. I think I take 20-30 shots per dive now and i'm much happier w the results. Too much flexibility can be a bad thing. I pretty much just use 2 lenses now, 60mm macro and 8mm fisheye. I used to use the 9-18, but i've been really enjoying the fisheye, personal preference. For the 12-50, its an ok lens, but I couldnt bring myself to pay $800 for a port, not because it has quality glass, but because Oly decided on a funky interface. Its a neat engineering solution for a problem that shouldn't have existed. The 60mm macro is a great lens. The 60mn and 8mm fisheye are the 2 best reasons to use MFT over other mirrorless underwater IMO.

Guys,

I appreciate your perspective and one day I hope to have the experience and portfolio you guys have. This is just an entry point for me. I was able to pick-up the 12-50 lens for $300 and the Deepshots gear for $120 so the cost was not that high.

I will be able to reuse the 4' port and diopter holder with either the 60mm or 9-18 lens as I have the funds to invest in more toys.

I am assuming that I will have full range of the 12-50 lens with the deepshots after market gear with the focus knob on the nauticam housing.
 
Hi,

Thank you all for the valuable advices. I have just pull the trigger and bought the Nauticam EM1 housing, with the 65 Macro port for my 60mm Macro lens, and a vacuum valve. Waiting for their delivery in mid of next week and can just meet my travelling schedule to Manado/Bunaken in end of next week. May add dome ports for the 12-40 pro lens or other wide lens in the future.

In addition to the above housing and lens, I have an Inon Z240 to complete this Macro rig. I am now figuring what float arm I need to incorporate in this system. I would want a nearly neutral buoyant system with only very little negative buoyancy. Not sure if a single Nauticam 60X200 float arm is adequate or I need a 60 X250 or.... I would like to keep the rig as compact as possible and not want to add long arms or use 90mm float arm.

I would very much appreciate it if you could share your experience or advise your view.

(P.S. I prefer carbon float arms to Stix foams which may be compressed with depth or not as durable/robust as carbon float arms. However, using some Stix may be inevitable for fine tuning the buoyancy I need. I am now using an Aluminium float arm for my EMP1 rig)

Thanks.
 
I think you will find that you need a lot more float than you think. I have an em-1 with the same port. With an Ipro video focus light it is way negative. Using 1 12 inch stix float and 3 divinycell (12 x 1/4 x 3 inches) I have a total of 1000 grams of lift and it is still negative. 2 of the 60x 200 arms will give you about 600 grams of lift. 2 of the 90x200 arms will leave it (with the focus light and some strobes) about 75 to 100 grams negative but it depends on your strobes.
Bill
 
I concur with Bill that you may be surprised on how much flotation even a fairly compact rig needs. I have come to the conclusion that I will trade off some flotation for compactness. I have an NA-EM5 housing and with the macro 65 port and two S2000 strobes I use 2 60X200 Nauticam float arms and a couple of stix floats. It takes some of the weight off but still significantly negative.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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