Nautilus Explorer Sea of Cortez Trip Report 2005

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slingshot

Contributor
Messages
551
Reaction score
22
Location
Northern California
# of dives
200 - 499
Arrival (Saturday, October 2005): We flew into Cabo San Lucas on United. The airport is rather nice, and air conditioned, but there are no jetways. Expect to use stairs to deplane onto the tarmac, so get ready for the heat when walking to the terminal. There is a steady stream of tourists arriving and departing, and clearing customs took about 45 minutes. When you arrive, have your passport available, and hold onto the paperwork they give you at customs because you need it when you leave, or you will be charged $50. Upon leaving the terminal, there will be a crowd of taxi and hotel people jockeying for your business, waving you over, your new best friends. It is best to have transport arranged in advance. We took a taxi service to the Los Patios hotel, the staging point for the Nautilus Explorer trip. This was about a 25 minute drive, and was about $20. After a quick lunch in the hotel’s clean restaurant (I recommend the fish tacos) we boarded a bus for the ride to La Paz ($55 round trip per person). A divemaster (Pedro) was at the hotel to coordinate getting baggage and passengers aboard, which he did with his usual cheerful efficiency. The bus was air-conditioned, and had window shades and reclining seats. After about 2 hours, we arrived at the marina in La Paz, where we were greeted by Mike Lever (captain) and met other crewmembers. Luggage was delivered directly to our cabins. A short walk down to the dock and we were aboard.
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Vessel: The Nautilus Explorer is a custom Canadian built and Canadian flagged vessel, 116 feet long, with a beam of 27 feet. She is constructed of steel, and designed to float with two of her main compartments flooded. There is a bulbous bow, a bow thruster, and twin screws. Many guests commented on the stability of the hull, particularly at speed, although seas were never much to contend with on this trip. The top deck hosted a small flybridge and sundeck. The next deck down had the bridge, the suites, the hot tub and a larger sundeck with shade, as well as an icemaker, sink, and the ships complement of liferaft canisters. On the main deck is a large lounge with bar and flat panel TV. Sofas line the walls. There were nice wood accents and bookshelves. There were the acoustic ceiling panels, which seemed out of place aboard ship, but these didn’t stand out. A PC and Mac were available, though I never saw them in use, and many guest had their laptops out. Dive briefing, movie presentations, and slideshows were held in this lounge. Heading forward takes you to the dining area. Heading aft takes you to the dive deck and stairs to the lower cabin deck and upper decks. The dive deck is mostly shaded by the sun deck above. The main feature is a boat ramp, which slants down almost to water level at the stern. As I understand it, in BC diving, a large skiff is winched aboard this ramp, and your dive gear is kept on the skiff. For this trip, a smaller aluminum skiff and an inflatable were used, and our gear was kept at stations lining the dive ramp. These stations had bins to keep fins and loose gear. To gear up, you stand and slip into your BC. There were no benches to sit on at the gear stations, which would have made getting into the wetsuits easier, but this also meant that you didn’t have to stand up with your tanks on, which was easier on the back. A short walk down the ramp and you were into the skiffs. Most diving was from the aluminum skiff, which had a boarding stair built into its bow, which was then drawn against the stern of the Nautilus Explorer. You then step from the stern into the bow of the skiff, which has a convenient hand rail. I would not want to do this in much of a swell, however. There were two showers on the dive deck, one at the top of the ramp, and one off to the starboard side near the stairs to the sun deck. Another shower head on the ramp would make a useful addition I think. On the port side was a large camera table, which also had some storage space beneath for camera cases. A charging table was also nearby, with plenty of plug space, but this area could get splashed by passing divers and one diver had a charger short out. Lighting was good.
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Cabins: To reach the guest cabins, you must pass through one of the watertight hatches, which means a step up and over the lower edge of the hatch. Two guest suites are well above water on the same deck as the bridge. The others are at water level, with light from a porthole (no, you can’t open the porthole). The standard cabins are compact but liveable. Ours had four 110v outlets, two small fans, a small alarm clock, a double bed on one side, and a twin on the other. The fans were there because, despite air conditioning, the cabins could get very warm and stuffy, something I noticed particularly at night. There is room under the bunks to store bags, and there was some shelving. There are no drawers or closets. There was plenty of fresh water. Linens are provided. Bring your own soap and shampoo. There are four bunks forward near the crew quarters in the “dormitory” at a reduced rate, with shared head. If traveling alone, I would seriously consider this option.
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Crew: Captain: Mike Lever. Second captain: Andrew. Dive masters included Pedro and Cedar. Hostess: Sylvia. Chef: Vickie. Engineer: Alberto. Deckhand: Tamara. Pangas in Cabo Pulmo were from Cabo Pulmo Divers. Mike runs a tight ship, and his crew was always courteous and professional. Safety seemed to be a high priority, particularly as regards the diving, where there was an emphasis on accounting for all divers (DAN tags were used to check in and out) and having a crewed skiff available whenever divers were in the water.

Guests: There were 22 guests aboard, with 20 divers. Experience ranged from divers with about 50 dives to divers with thousands of dives, and most were into the hundreds of dives. All guests were from the United States and Canada, and many were very extensively traveled. Two divers used semi-closed rebreathers. Many divers had extensive cold water and/or dry suit diving experience on both the East and West coast. Several divers were professional photographers, including two who own a dive photography equipment business.
 
Diving: Dive briefings were typically held the night before, after dinner. Water temperature was about 81 degrees, air temperature hovered about 90 degrees, and most people dived in 3mm full suits or skins. I used a tropical beanie. Gloves were permitted. At least one diver used a 5 mm full suit. I would recommend a full skin at least as there were lots of small jellies in the water at many sites. Visibility was variable, but probably averaged about 50-60 feet. The pool was typically open from 8am and closed at 8pm (sunrise was around 7 am, and sunset around 7 pm). Nitrox 32 was the gas of choice for most, and a mix of aluminum 80s and steel 100s was available. There was a charge for the steel tanks, but this was donated to a local turtle conservation agency. A 15 foot safety stop was mandated, and arrival at the stop with 500 psi was also required. Divemaster guided dives were always available, although most dives were not guided. Diving on this trip was predominantly skiff diving.
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A safety sausage is prudent if you don’t plan to navigate back to a buoy or tend to wander when diving. A few dives were from the stern of the Nautilus Explorer. One dive day, in the Cabo Pulmo marine sanctuary, was from small locally hired pangas who then motored into the sanctuary. Among the dives that were divemastered automatically were two blue-water drift dives. On these dives, the skiff would release a buoy with a 70 foot weighted line. Divers would procede down the line, and a divemaster stayed at the bottom of the line. You would then drift through the water, looking for pelagics. The first of two such dives yielded large schools of yellowfin tuna, while the second yielded my only sighting of a hammerhead, which was in water depths of about 120-150 feet, while most of the divers stayed at about 100 feet (one diver hit 137 feet on that dive). A trio of us had a divermaster lead a 70 foot dive onto a pinnacle one night at El Bajo, which began at about 55 feet, and yielded many ray and eel sightings. Other unguided night dives were done at Los Islotes, known for its sea lions, and at Roca Motana in only about 15-20 feet of water. On this latter dive, there was some surge between the coral heads, and divers were widely scattered at the surface. Bioluminesence could be seen on all three night dives. The daytime dives began at the wreck of the Salvatierra, and old LST (landing ship tank) used as a local ferry, and also included dives at Los Islotes, Las Animas, El Bajo, and Cabo Pulmo. I particularly liked the diving at La Reina (I think also known as Arrecife de la Foca) where there was varied topography including overhangs and canyons, and a huge ball of scad that cast great shadows on the sea floor. Las Animas had a very strong current on our first dive, and most divers tucked into the rock crevices to stay out of the worst of it. You could watch our bubbles climb up the rock face, then angle off into the blue at a 45 degree angle as they caught the current. The Cabo Pulmo dives were essentially drift dives, given a relatively strong current running to the north. Said to be one of the only reef systems in western North America, there were huge squadrons of puffer fish and grouper, along the rocky coral fingers, as well as an impressive golden leopard grouper. We also saw an electric ray, and a large school of panamic porkfish. The final dive of the trip was on Friday morning, and featured a return to the Salvatierra as the Nautilus Explorer turned back towards La Paz. This was a popular dive from the first day, and the last dive yielded the first sighting of the season of a tiny solar yellow seahorse on the wreck. This was a grand feature of the final dive of the trip.
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Food: Meals were generally served in the dining area, though on occasion food was presented outdoors on the hot tub deck. Serving was buffet style. Non-alcoholic beverages were included, bar drinks were placed on tab. There was a mix of western and Mexican foods. Breakfast was pretty standard, typically some sort of eggs or pancakes, potatoes, sausage, and mixed fruit with oatmeal, cereal, coffee and OJ. Lunches included wraps, tacos and sandwiches, usually with soup. Cookies or other snacks were offered in the afternoons. Options, usually fish or chicken, were made available for those who didn’t want the featured item at dinner, such as Vancouver crab or on steak night. Sides were typically roast potatoes and vegetables, and a mixed or Caesar salad was presented. One of the potato salads was undercooked. Everyone loved the sautéed carrots, and the accompanying steaks were grilled to order. Desserts accompanied dinner, and fruit was available. There was an ice machine, and a soda gun loaded with Pepsi, Diet Pepsi, orange soda, root beer, iced tea, apple juice, lemonade and water. As stated on their website, a number of wines, bar drinks, and beers were available, including a number of BC breweries and local Mexican fare.
 
Other Activities: Some guests snorkeled when sites were suitable, and Mike ran a free-diving clinic, although I didn’t participate (as I was plain-old diving). Kayaks were available for use. There were non-diving activities planned during the trip. The first was a trip ashore to visit a turtle nesting beach just north of Cabo Pulmo at night. We were met ashore by a van and local volunteer turtle conservationist Manuel, who drove us to a nearby beach. After a walk of perhaps 3/4 mile along the sand, we came to an area where turtles nested. Some nests had been dug up by coyotes and dogs, and perhaps local poachers, but Manuel gathers turtle eggs from unprotected areas and puts them in protected nest sites. He says a large group of hatchlings had fledged the prior night, and turtle tracks could be seen everywhere in the sand. He showed us one of his nest sites, including some of the turtle eggs, which looked like soft ping pong balls. We didn’t see any turtles, but seeing the eggs under the stars, and the tracks of baby turtles was pretty neat.

The second and most popular activity was the search for whale sharks, which took place on Friday afternoon after diving was concluded. Mike hired an ultralight to scout for whale sharks, and we headed for a small bay where one had been seen earlier in the day. Guests were advised that whale sharks didn’t like splashing and would best be seen by snorkeling calmly in the water. Intrepid Tamara climbed the ships mast with binoculars in hand, and the guests lined the upper decks. After a tense hour or so, during which everyone was surprisingly quiet with hope and anticipation, a whale shark was spotted feeding near the surface, and we donned snorkel gear. Two groups were motored out into the bay by skiff and people slipped into the water in turn to swim quietly with the whale shark. Visibility was limited by huge clouds of plankton in the water, on which the whale shark was calmly feeding. Then whale shark would appear out of the haze, its great shadow looming closer until you could see its form with clarity as it passed by at arms length. This was probably a younger animal, measuring perhaps 16-18 feet in length, but still impressive in its bulk and surprising grace in the water.
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Departure (Saturday): We arrived back in port in La Paz on Friday evening at 5pm. Although dinner was offered aboard, most passengers went ashore to look around the town. There is a nice malecon (beachfront “boardwalk”) with beautiful views at sunset. A number of us met ashore at a small bar recommended by Sylvia. Afterwards, three of us went further along the boardwalk to a small waterfront plaza, where there was live music. Between the setting sun, a cool breeze, and the music, you could really appreciate La Paz. Next stop was a local tacqueria near the marina. Food was cooked over open flame, and the aroma and the flavor were heavenly. A light breakfast was served the following morning, when our gear was loaded onto the bus for a direct trip to the airport, and home. At the airport, there are two main terminals, so be sure to check where your airline departs from before unloading all your gear. Inside the gate area there were several shops and a small overpriced restaurant. Keep a watch on your boarding time because several airlines share the same gate, and overhead announcements were very hard to hear. One note on our flight: on landing approach with gear down, I noticed we were making some unusual late S-turns. A few seconds later it was full power and a quick climb. My very first go-around! A British Airways 747 was slow clearing the runway, we were told. A memorable way to return home.
 
That concludes my first trip report. Hope this is useful to future travelers. Special thanks to my dive buddy Capybara!

Although I didn't see frogfish on this trip, I still consider myself to be a...
 

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