Nauticam D90 -Buoyancy Question

[scottg_houston]

Hi!

I'm in the process of ordering a first time DSLR rig for my girlfriend who uses a Nikon D90 landside and is into macro u/w. We've settled on the Nauticam housing and understand that with ports for a 60mm macro it will be negative. How much we dont know.

We have yet to determine the strobe/arm set up and are leaning towards a pair of YS 01s. Mainly because they are more compact u/w and lighter for travel than the YS110a we have already on our P &S , and feel that that (plus cost) offsets, say, a pair of Inon D2000s (we've disregarded the S2000 as it does not have a target light).

Our aim is to have the whole rig slightly negative and as compact as possible given it'll be mostly macro she'll shoot.

My question is with the slighly positive buoyancy of the YS 01 will she be ok with just a set of ULCS 8 and 5 inch arms, or should we still include some additional buoyancy, and if so should it be 8 inch float arms, or just 5 inch.

Bit of a subjective question I know. But not having used a DSLR underwater yet we'd like to get it right -and she is not keen on the idea of letting me loose down the road with stix/foam floats and cable ties/duct tape on her super new (and expensive) rig -much as I thrive on such stuff!

I'd also appreciate hearing what people think about the YS 01s for this rig.

Thanks and regards
Scott

 

[bvanant]

It will be negative, a lot. I would definitely not go the YS01 route since you already have the 110a. As for the S2000, I think discounting them for no target light is a mistake. In most situations, your strobes should not be pointed at the actual subject (read Martin Edge's book the Underwater Photographer) and a separate focus light will make much more sense. As for flotation, I use 2 8 inch and 2 5-inch ULCS arms with Stix floats that fit over the arms and it is still negative.
In any case, have fun with your housing and post some pics.
Bill

 

[scottg_houston]

Bill -many thanks for your response. You've basically told me what I needed to know and that is we will need some buoyancy. So thanks for that.

We will probably go with the YS01s for the reasons stated in my first post. Geometry not being a strong point, she actually uses the target light to show which way the strobe is pointing (particularly on night dives) and not as a focus light. And I will use the YS110a with my Canon S90.

One further question I have, however -for the focus light (I'm thinking Fisheye mini Led or equivalent), is it best to use an ball/clamp/arm from the top of the housing, or is a shoe mount on the top of the macro port adequate.

Thanks again
Scott

PS We have the 3rd edition of Martin's book (which is excellent) but I'm aware there is now a 4th. Is it worth buying the latest one or is it much the same as the previous one

 

[bvanant]

Bill -many thanks for your response. You've basically told me what I needed to know and that is we will need some buoyancy. So thanks for that.

We will probably go with the YS01s for the reasons stated in my first post. Geometry not being a strong point, she actually uses the target light to show which way the strobe is pointing (particularly on night dives) and not as a focus light. And I will use the YS110a with my Canon S90.

One further question I have, however -for the focus light (I'm thinking Fisheye mini Led or equivalent), is it best to use an ball/clamp/arm from the top of the housing, or is a shoe mount on the top of the macro port adequate.

Thanks again
Scott

PS We have the 3rd edition of Martin's book (which is excellent) but I'm aware there is now a 4th. Is it worth buying the latest one or is it much the same as the previous one

Firstly, the 4th edition is definitely worth the money it has changed substantially. I mount my focus light on top of the housing with a short arm. Other folks do it differently, but I think the majority of folks mount it to the housing.
Bill