My illegal steel tank

[COVCI]

hydrostatically retested recently. If that is the case, an additional retest is not warranted.

Although the valve may work fine simply by replacing the burst disk assembly, it would be prudent to spend the few dollars to replace the valve.

Good Luck.

Chris
COVCI

 

[FredT]

I'm not even sure where the burst disc IS.

The hex plug under the knob is the connection point for a 3/8-24 SAE hosed SPG that is now connected to your reg with a 7/16" threaded connection. Most regulators in '66 did not have a port for the SPG so the "delux" valves had this port on themtoallow connection of the SPG to an EMPTY tank.

The small plug with the screwdriver slot opposite of the handle is the burst disk plug.

FT

 

[TwoBitTxn]

The valve is the thing that screws into the cylinder. The first stage of a regulator attaches to the valve.

Sorry I'm being picky on semantics.

TwoBit

 

[Genesis]

If that's a galvanized steel 72 (that someone painted with yellow paint) its one of my favorite tanks, and assuming its in hydro and good external and internal condition, there's nothing wrong with it.

I'd probably swap the valve, but I'd definitely use it. Illegal my tailfeathers; those tanks are wonderful.

 

[quimby]

Although the valve may work fine simply by replacing the burst disk assembly, it would be prudent to spend the few dollars to replace the valve.

Prudent would be to replace the burst disk! A copper disk does erode, and you might want to "adjust" the pressure rating to be correct for sure. Only other thing you could logically do would be towards nitrox cleaning but sounds like something you wouldnt worry about for a while

 

[quimby]

As I understand it the main problem with this type of burst disc is that when they do blow it has a tendency to push the tank over potentially causing further problems such as a wildly spinning tank or a situation where the valve may be nocked off causing tank propulsion

Julie the "exit hole" isnt big enough to do anything dramatic with moving the tank but the stream of air as FREDT said could cause some pneumatic skin problems. The older versions had a lead core which was capable of putting a "dimple" in the sheet metal of your trunk. I remember a 69 Toronado with the that custom modification

 

[Cave Diver]

I'm pleased that the tank most probably is in fact usable. I have a soft spot for quality, working "antiques". And this tank belonged to my best friend's father, one of those amazing Navy UDT folks that predated SEALS. This dude did solo missions in Cuba during the 1960's. Wicked!

You might consider replacing the whole valve assembly as previously mentioned then saving the original valve and starting an antique SCUBA collection.

That way you can use the tank and save the memories.

 

[pescador775]

Archman, you have a standard steel 72 @ 2250 psi, a useful item. Divers routinely replace the burst disk on the back of the valve every few years regardless of type. No need to replace the valve itself but it will have to be disassembled and checked. The O rings go bad after so long a time. However, it will cost more ($35) than a new valve would go for on EBAY. I recommend a new valve. UDT divers often used the steel tanks for personal use although their standard military equipment was an aluminum 90.