mx-10,reef master rc, or auto 35

[scorpiofish]

Here are the pro's and con's:

1) The MX-10 has the best optics of any point and shoot. You can add on the very useful 20mm lens and macro lens later on. The cons are that it is obviously more expensive and the strobe is too close to the camera lens, which often created backscatter in all but the clearest of water.

2) The Auto 35 does a pretty darn good job and can be had for a very good price with everything included. You definitely need the strobe and it does have an optional macro kit, which works pretty well. Price vs. value is excellent

3) The Reefmaster has good optics, but not nearly as good as the MX-10. The real advantage is that it has a well placed strobe and you can actually add another. It has an assortment press fit diopters, which act as close-up lenses. This allows getting closer to the subject. These close-up lenses don't fit all that well and you need to be careful to get them on straight, plus the addition of diopters reduces sharpness to some extent.

I would choose the MX-10 for overall picture quality. Save up for the 20mm lens. I see many more people trade up from the Reefmaster as opposed to the Auto 35 or MX-10.

 

[Piscean]

Dee,

I just got back from Cozumel too and I had my MX-10 with me but didn't achieve the brilliant shots that you managed. I'm most impressed. And so I have a couple of questions: there is no backscatter in any of your shots, are you using a strobe arm and an MXTender or something like that? Are you using slide film or print film (what speed?)? How did you get the splendid toad fish out of it's hole? I had never seen a whole one before.

Thanks,
Piscean.

 

[Arduous]

I have the Auto-35 and am very happy with it. I am not a professional photographer, the photo’s I take are for my memories alone. For me this camera takes good pictures, but if you get it make sure you get the sub-strobe, with out it you will get major backscatter.

Dive Safe ……………………….Arduous

 

[fergyjohn]

G,day Cokeman,
I have only used the MX-10 so cannot comment on the others, but do like the extra lenses and the way you can change them underwater.

If you are interested in seeing some photos taken with an MX-10 have a look at my website.

http://www.geocities.com/reefdiveroz/


fergy

 

[Dee]

Originally posted by herman
Nice photo Dee, just curious, which lens were you using?

Most of those shots were with the 20mm wide angle. I especially like wide angle close-ups.

 

[Dee]

Originally posted by Piscean
Dee,

I just got back from Cozumel too and I had my MX-10 with me but didn't achieve the brilliant shots that you managed. I'm most impressed. And so I have a couple of questions: there is no backscatter in any of your shots, are you using a strobe arm and an MXTender or something like that? Are you using slide film or print film (what speed?)? How did you get the splendid toad fish out of it's hole? I had never seen a whole one before.

Thanks,
Piscean.

I used the regular MX-10 set-up, no MXTender. The water in Coz is unusually clear due to the currents, although sometimes I'll get backscatter when down near the sand. One secret to using a fixed strobe is to be aware of the backscatter and just not waste the film when you know you'll get alot of it in the photo! I use either the macro or most usually the 20mm wide angle lens. Close-up wide angles shots are my favorites. You can get within 12" of your subject yet still get the feel of wide angle. Anytime you diminish the water between subject to lens (getting closer), you'll get less backscatter.

You can push ASA50 slide film in the MX-10 but I get better results with ASA100. My favorite is Fuji Reala.

I don't manipulate my photos, ie. cloning out backscatter, tweaking the colors, etc. but I will occasionally crop a photo.

The full length Splendid Toadfish was taken at night. I just happened to find him out hunting.

Click here to see some outstanding photos taken with an MX-10!

 

[AliKat]

I have the ReefMaster RC with the macro kit and two strobes. The major advantage of this camera over the MX10 is the more flexable strobe, and the fact that you can a second strobe. You can also purchase longer extender arms for the strobes. The RM is also a little less expensive.

I understand the MX10 has better optics and it does have a wide angle which the RM does not have.

The RM also has no O rings which require removal and greasing.

Both have optional macro lenses which can be changed underwater.

 

[hawgfish]

MX 10, but you have to get the wide angle, especially if you are new at it, as I am. The newer models have a detachable strobe so you can position it to minimize backscatter. The most important part is buoyancy control and being sneaky. Whatever camera you use, most subjects don't pose. Last of all, try not to be a pain in the rump to other divers and don't lose sight of the fact that all the rules of courtesy and safety still apply, it's very easy to get caught up in the moment, and then find you are too deep, lost or in general screwing up.

 

[diverdown1]

bluewater

The first time I tried to Dive with my Ikelite Auto35, it jammed. It made me so upset as it was my first shark dive and my camera didn't work. I couldn't depress the shutter release once. On my second dive I shoved a folder plastic bag between the back of the camera and case...guess what...worked like a charm. I never removed the foam pieces and went through the manual to make sure it was fitted properly. Needless to say I was VERY disappointed. I'm doing a live aboard next month and am actively seeking another brand name of camera because of this reason. Any suggestions on a liked-price camera is appreciated.

 

[Stone]

Diverdown1,

Here's a quote from a previous post in this thread from Rick Murchison:

The Auto 35 has a "Murphy" in that it is possible to install the camera where the shutter release arm slips in front of the shutter release button, causing it to jam after the first shot (or even before the first shot sometimes). We have found that by watching for this alignment problem and making sure the release lever is well back from the front edge of the camera before closing the case the problem goes away.

As you drop the camera into the housing, it is very easy to make sure the lever is free to depress the shutter release button. I tilt the top of the camera down as I put it in the housing so I can see the shutter button is under the lever arm. I think it takes more care and is harder to load the film correctly than it is to install the camera in the housing.

P.S. This "Murphy" didn't appear until I was on a live-aboard on the Great Barrier Reef. I was surrounded by gorgonians the size of trees, sharks, and giant "gropers". . . talk about disappointed; I thought the camera was BROKE. Fortunately, once on the boat, I could see the lever problem.