Mounting handheld dive lights to hard Goodman handles

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wetb4igetinthewater

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1) buy Dive Rite QRM Goodman
2) buy Dive Rite strike plate
3) attach plate to any light with zip ties
4) sell the whole thing and buy a canister light or a one piece solution (LX20+, Flare EXP, etc)

Edit: typo and zip tie clause
 
1) buy Dive Rite QRM Goodman
2) buy Dive Rote strike plate
3) attach plate to light
4) sell the whole thing and buy a canister light or a one piece solution (LX20+, Flare EXP, etc)
That's exactly not the information I was seeking. I'm not looking for a solution to have a light that's removable from a hard Goodman handle, but rather a solution that will take any standard handheld light and mount it securely.
 
Grant is being (mostly) serious.

Dive Rite offer a quick release mounting base that can fin on a hard goodman (among other things).
They also offer a "Universal" mount that zip-ties to lights and clips into the base.
Look here: Lights - Dive Rite
but for quick referece:
Complete-QRM-for-Universal-Lights_LT6130-QRM-UNI-600x600.jpg
 
That's exactly not the information I was seeking. I'm not looking for a solution to have a light that's removable from a hard Goodman handle, but rather a solution that will take any standard handheld light and mount it securely.
Keep the lever of the QRM shut and it is explicitly what you're looking for.

If you're being cheap, buy a Halcyon/LightMonkey/DiveRite Goodman and fashion your own PVC mount. There’s some chance that the DGX helmet light holsters will bolt to a standard non-QRM goodman, but you’ll still need a way to secure it. Razor sells an additional option but doesn’t believe in hard goodmans.
 
Grant is being (mostly) serious.

Dive Rite offer a quick release mounting base that can fin on a hard goodman (among other things).
They also offer a "Universal" mount that zip-ties to lights and clips into the base.
Look here: Lights - Dive Rite
but for quick referece:
Complete-QRM-for-Universal-Lights_LT6130-QRM-UNI-600x600.jpg
I'm all familiar with this offering. I'm asking for actual real world experience. If people found that the light can slide even when cranking down the zip tie, then it is a no go. I'm looking for information so that I don't spend money needlessly that doesn't meet my goal.

I'm just looking for solutions for existing lights that I have.
 
I'm all familiar with this offering. I'm asking for actual real world experience. If people found that the light can slide even when cranking down the zip tie, then it is a no go. I'm looking for information so that I don't spend money needlessly that doesn't meet my goal.

I'm just looking for solutions for existing lights that I have.
It doesn’t, though I’m sure you could place inner tube around the light before you zip tie it. In fact, seems the QRM fits you pretty well. Hell, if you hate the hard Goodman and find it slides, I’d trade you a dive rite soft QRM goodman
 
I was not overly keen on the 3D printed/zip-tie/cost aspects. I wanted something that was QR, but very secure and as near universal as possible. In the end, I ended up spending way more and tons of time.

The short of it is I took 2 ADM Picatinny rail interface, sight bases w/ Titanium Locking levers, machined the heck out of them to fit and mach holes. They are then mounted on one of the nifty new Apeks hard goodmans. I then modified some Picatinny rail sections and attached them to my lights with SS worm clamps covered in heat-shrink.

The rig allows me to run 2 lights side by side. Original reason was to be able to use a UV light as well for florescence. It can also be easily reconfigured for one central light by just moving the lever-clamp bases.
 
I was not overly keen on the 3D printed/zip-tie/cost aspects. I wanted something that was QR, but very secure and as near universal as possible. In the end, I ended up spending way more and tons of time.

The short of it is I took 2 ADM Picatinny rail interface, sight bases w/ Titanium Locking levers, machined the heck out of them to fit and mach holes. They are then mounted on one of the nifty new Apeks hard goodmans. I then modified some Picatinny rail sections and attached them to my lights with SS worm clamps covered in heat-shrink.

The rig allows me to run 2 lights side by side. Original reason was to be able to use a UV light as well for florescence. It can also be easily reconfigured for one central light by just moving the lever-clamp bases.
Do you have a pic? I'm more of a visual guy.

inner tube ....
Great tip for putting thin rubber which will grip between two metal surfaces. That's helpful.
 
Here you go:
AMWts8DobEgLSVqdJKMh66bwcBtQIxNNdPpnHwaZ3WiHpGaQQGYHB1E0TQKj6-Wknz6pwdMyI-5OrRuSztY1Izt_0AAP4d8H4TFjSp8DrBvjLn4QJkSBZD-FmdYufOEzyvCHCXfXErZuHS6WUqvQPv9u_tRM=w1106-h1088-s-no

IMG_20230221_180137937.jpg

IMG_20230221_180043920.jpg

IMG_20230221_180241086.jpg

IMG_20230221_180342063.jpg


The lever-lock bases were grid-drilled and tapped. They can be adjusted forward and back, in and out, and reversed to move the levers outside.
With a little finagling and adding a clamp base I could have 3 mount points. For example to add a GoPro with twin lights biased to the front or back. Or just drop to a single, center device.

ADM mounts are these: Burris FastFire Mount-Titanium Lever

The Pic rail sections were off of some Amazon mount that I slotted to pass the band clamp assembly. The top surface was contoured to the lights as required
 

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