Alas exigent circumstances required me to cut my visit short and fly home two days early. Changing my flights was easy since I had used miles, just a $75 change fee. But I had a serious dilemma on my hands, how to choose where to eat for my one final night?
The day leading up to the night was easy enough. Breakfast was included with my room at BA so I had the chilaquiles in salsa verde. A good proportion of chicken with the chips and sauce along with an over-easy egg buried in the pile made for a satisfying start to my day. After packing up most of my stuff, I emerged for lunch, another easy choice because I still hadn't had the fish tacos at Rock 'N Java and I needed more coffee. While BA puts coffee out in the early morning, they also take it away way too early for my oppressive caffeine addiction. So I walked up to RNJ for a strong iced coffee and then another one.
Being a SoCalian, I'm more used to real fish tacos, aka the battered and fried fish in a corn tortilla with cabbage and crema as invented in Ensenada, BC and copied all around greater California and beyond. Rock 'N Java's were instead a Caribbean version with the healthy substitution of whole-wheat tortillas. Fish was chopped up and there was cheese in addition to the greens and sauce. But they were very tasty nonetheless. The habanero salsa on the table this time was more a yellow-green instead of the yellow-orange from the other day and that should have warned me from piling it on but I tend to be stupid that way. A few bites had me gasping for something besides coffee to wash it down so the friendly waiter brought me a bottle of agua while chuckling at me in pity. Unfortunately I had already doused all three tacos with the fiery stuff, so I paced myself. Bite, drink, cooling down period, repeat. Finally made it through the plate, tongue and mouth a bit scorched but otherwise unharmed. I only dreaded the next morning.
Nice surprise at the end of my ordeal was the check. Whether because it was my third day there with the same waiter, or because I had been there the previous time with island residents, or because he just took pity on me for my self-immolation, he applied a nice discount. I enjoyed everything I ate there and will definitely return, frequently, on my next trip to the island.
Walk back to the BA to swim and hang out a while and work up my appetite for dinners. Yes, dinners plural. Unwilling to choose between Le Chef and Kinta for my final meal, I chose both.
Walked back to town to further increase my appetite as I knew the night would require the utmost in culinary stamina. At Le Chef, I sat down at my favorite table, i.e. the one I sat at the last time I was there. Le Chef is a small "sidewalk cafe" with a few outside tables and a few inside ones where people apparently sit when it's raining but otherwise who would want to? Perversely, it's across the street from a gym, so one can watch people burning off calories while stuffing one's face with excellent food.
Having sampled "The Famous Lobster & Bacon Sandwich" on a previous visit, I already knew that was way too rich for my double dining plan. Instead I ordered solely from the specials menu, keeping it nice and light.
First course, breaking my seafood diet but it sounded so good, was the smoked duck carpaccio. From the kitchen smells after I ordered the dish, I realized they smoked on demand.
The duck was a bit rarer than I had expected from it being smoked and I cut off the fatty skin in order to preserve my sleek physique, but each bite dipped liberally in the chimichurri was a morsel of flavor, the slight gaminess of the duck breast combined with the rich olive oil, and a little nibble of sweet cherry tomato to complement the smoke, it was pure delight albeit a little chewy, but the chewing only served to increase my appetite for the rest. Unfortunately, not knowing that the flatbreads were to accompany each course, I downed all six pieces. So much for pacing myself.
Next course was lighter. Tuna sashimi. Not the "Tuna Tare-Tare" advertised on the blackboard, but the tuna sashimi special.
This had the same flatbreads and similar greens and cherry tomatoes as the duck, but with the addition of red onion that added, along with the jalapeno slices, a certain piquancy to the lightly seared strips of flawless sushi-grade ahi. Absolutely delectable.
Finally, the calamari al ajillo. Besides the garlic oil that one would expect of the traditional gambas al ajillo, probably the most famous tapa of all of Spain, this dish had the addition of strips of chile guajillo. The dried smoky chile matched very nicely with the garlic oil and the chewiness of the squid, though I'd still personally prefer shrimp over calamari if not for the taste but for the aesthetics. Squids are ugly creatures.
Because of the oil content, the al ajillo proved to be richer than I had wanted and I was already second-guessing my plans for a second dinner. But being my last night I really had no options, so I pressed onward, walking the 7 or 8 blocks down 5th and through the plaza to the sister of Kondesa.
Again, a very lovely garden setting. Another cat. But a completely different menu.
Instead of the light bruschetta I had been served at the two Italian spots the previous nights, Kinta started off showing no mercy on my already distended belly. Their complimentary starter was a plate of cheesy garlicky grilled bread, so delicious that I of course had to eat it all.
At this point, already overwhelmed by all the decisions I had made throughout the day such as where to eat and what to order at Le Chef, I gave it over to my waiter to decide for me. Sensing I just wanted seafood, he started me off with the albondigas, aka cherry bombs. Normally albondigas are meatballs of beef and/or pork, most often served in the soup of the same name, but these were more like spherical fish cakes, crispy on the outside like Lebanese kofta, served in a tomato sauce and with generous dollops of tomato-corn salsa. According to the menu and a little visible on the plate was apparently the coconut milk reduction, but it was really, really reduced and practically undetectable on the palate.
The next course was Peskado Koketo. I was a bit leery of more fish with pumpkin seeds, but the waiter assured me it was nothing like the Peskado Pepita at Kondesa so I gave it a whirl. Here, the pumpkin seeds were used to form a crust on the grouper and the sauce was an emulsion of chile poblano. The sweet-potato puree accompanying the fish was buttery rich. I didn't feel it went well with the dish but it was so good it could have served as dessert. Fish was perfectly cooked and oh so deliciously crusty. A small portion but my stomach was hardly in a mood to complain at that point.
And finally dessert, even though I was ready to burst at that point. Budin de la Abuelita, "Grandma's bread pudding". Pretty much every wonderful dessert imaginable all rolled up in one. There was tres leches cake but molded into a rich bread pudding. There was chocolate. There was cajeta. And there was ice cream, Banana Split ice cream to be exact. I wish I could have tasted more of the dessert but I sucked it down so fast it barely touched my tongue, it was that good. Only when I finally stood up did I realize I should have taken it slower. Ugh.
The restaurants on the island have improved immensely since my first visit back in 2000. I knew they were getting better when I tried La Cocay the year they opened, but now the island is a gourmand's paradise not just a diver's. And a diving gourmand gets a double treat. Other islands like Grand Cayman and Bonaire have excellent dining options as well, but carry a much higher price tag. Dining in Cozumel was a relative bargain. With so many more spots to try, I'll be sure to return as soon as I can.
For those who worried that my reports made them too hungry, I'll finish off with a picture of my wounded hairy toe after it suffered through the walk back and forth to Blue Angel multiple times while wearing new flip-flops because I was too cheap to pay for a taxi ride. Instead, I spent a fortune on bandaids that I changed every quarter mile or so. If the following picture still makes you hungry, you are one sick bastard!
Until next time...
Mossman
The day leading up to the night was easy enough. Breakfast was included with my room at BA so I had the chilaquiles in salsa verde. A good proportion of chicken with the chips and sauce along with an over-easy egg buried in the pile made for a satisfying start to my day. After packing up most of my stuff, I emerged for lunch, another easy choice because I still hadn't had the fish tacos at Rock 'N Java and I needed more coffee. While BA puts coffee out in the early morning, they also take it away way too early for my oppressive caffeine addiction. So I walked up to RNJ for a strong iced coffee and then another one.
Being a SoCalian, I'm more used to real fish tacos, aka the battered and fried fish in a corn tortilla with cabbage and crema as invented in Ensenada, BC and copied all around greater California and beyond. Rock 'N Java's were instead a Caribbean version with the healthy substitution of whole-wheat tortillas. Fish was chopped up and there was cheese in addition to the greens and sauce. But they were very tasty nonetheless. The habanero salsa on the table this time was more a yellow-green instead of the yellow-orange from the other day and that should have warned me from piling it on but I tend to be stupid that way. A few bites had me gasping for something besides coffee to wash it down so the friendly waiter brought me a bottle of agua while chuckling at me in pity. Unfortunately I had already doused all three tacos with the fiery stuff, so I paced myself. Bite, drink, cooling down period, repeat. Finally made it through the plate, tongue and mouth a bit scorched but otherwise unharmed. I only dreaded the next morning.
Nice surprise at the end of my ordeal was the check. Whether because it was my third day there with the same waiter, or because I had been there the previous time with island residents, or because he just took pity on me for my self-immolation, he applied a nice discount. I enjoyed everything I ate there and will definitely return, frequently, on my next trip to the island.
Walk back to the BA to swim and hang out a while and work up my appetite for dinners. Yes, dinners plural. Unwilling to choose between Le Chef and Kinta for my final meal, I chose both.
Walked back to town to further increase my appetite as I knew the night would require the utmost in culinary stamina. At Le Chef, I sat down at my favorite table, i.e. the one I sat at the last time I was there. Le Chef is a small "sidewalk cafe" with a few outside tables and a few inside ones where people apparently sit when it's raining but otherwise who would want to? Perversely, it's across the street from a gym, so one can watch people burning off calories while stuffing one's face with excellent food.
Having sampled "The Famous Lobster & Bacon Sandwich" on a previous visit, I already knew that was way too rich for my double dining plan. Instead I ordered solely from the specials menu, keeping it nice and light.
First course, breaking my seafood diet but it sounded so good, was the smoked duck carpaccio. From the kitchen smells after I ordered the dish, I realized they smoked on demand.
The duck was a bit rarer than I had expected from it being smoked and I cut off the fatty skin in order to preserve my sleek physique, but each bite dipped liberally in the chimichurri was a morsel of flavor, the slight gaminess of the duck breast combined with the rich olive oil, and a little nibble of sweet cherry tomato to complement the smoke, it was pure delight albeit a little chewy, but the chewing only served to increase my appetite for the rest. Unfortunately, not knowing that the flatbreads were to accompany each course, I downed all six pieces. So much for pacing myself.
Next course was lighter. Tuna sashimi. Not the "Tuna Tare-Tare" advertised on the blackboard, but the tuna sashimi special.
This had the same flatbreads and similar greens and cherry tomatoes as the duck, but with the addition of red onion that added, along with the jalapeno slices, a certain piquancy to the lightly seared strips of flawless sushi-grade ahi. Absolutely delectable.
Finally, the calamari al ajillo. Besides the garlic oil that one would expect of the traditional gambas al ajillo, probably the most famous tapa of all of Spain, this dish had the addition of strips of chile guajillo. The dried smoky chile matched very nicely with the garlic oil and the chewiness of the squid, though I'd still personally prefer shrimp over calamari if not for the taste but for the aesthetics. Squids are ugly creatures.
Because of the oil content, the al ajillo proved to be richer than I had wanted and I was already second-guessing my plans for a second dinner. But being my last night I really had no options, so I pressed onward, walking the 7 or 8 blocks down 5th and through the plaza to the sister of Kondesa.
Again, a very lovely garden setting. Another cat. But a completely different menu.
Instead of the light bruschetta I had been served at the two Italian spots the previous nights, Kinta started off showing no mercy on my already distended belly. Their complimentary starter was a plate of cheesy garlicky grilled bread, so delicious that I of course had to eat it all.
At this point, already overwhelmed by all the decisions I had made throughout the day such as where to eat and what to order at Le Chef, I gave it over to my waiter to decide for me. Sensing I just wanted seafood, he started me off with the albondigas, aka cherry bombs. Normally albondigas are meatballs of beef and/or pork, most often served in the soup of the same name, but these were more like spherical fish cakes, crispy on the outside like Lebanese kofta, served in a tomato sauce and with generous dollops of tomato-corn salsa. According to the menu and a little visible on the plate was apparently the coconut milk reduction, but it was really, really reduced and practically undetectable on the palate.
The next course was Peskado Koketo. I was a bit leery of more fish with pumpkin seeds, but the waiter assured me it was nothing like the Peskado Pepita at Kondesa so I gave it a whirl. Here, the pumpkin seeds were used to form a crust on the grouper and the sauce was an emulsion of chile poblano. The sweet-potato puree accompanying the fish was buttery rich. I didn't feel it went well with the dish but it was so good it could have served as dessert. Fish was perfectly cooked and oh so deliciously crusty. A small portion but my stomach was hardly in a mood to complain at that point.
And finally dessert, even though I was ready to burst at that point. Budin de la Abuelita, "Grandma's bread pudding". Pretty much every wonderful dessert imaginable all rolled up in one. There was tres leches cake but molded into a rich bread pudding. There was chocolate. There was cajeta. And there was ice cream, Banana Split ice cream to be exact. I wish I could have tasted more of the dessert but I sucked it down so fast it barely touched my tongue, it was that good. Only when I finally stood up did I realize I should have taken it slower. Ugh.
The restaurants on the island have improved immensely since my first visit back in 2000. I knew they were getting better when I tried La Cocay the year they opened, but now the island is a gourmand's paradise not just a diver's. And a diving gourmand gets a double treat. Other islands like Grand Cayman and Bonaire have excellent dining options as well, but carry a much higher price tag. Dining in Cozumel was a relative bargain. With so many more spots to try, I'll be sure to return as soon as I can.
For those who worried that my reports made them too hungry, I'll finish off with a picture of my wounded hairy toe after it suffered through the walk back and forth to Blue Angel multiple times while wearing new flip-flops because I was too cheap to pay for a taxi ride. Instead, I spent a fortune on bandaids that I changed every quarter mile or so. If the following picture still makes you hungry, you are one sick bastard!
Until next time...
Mossman
