Montserrat Dive Report

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Sally

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If you’re looking for some remote island adventure check out Montserrat! I just spent a week there and had a great time. Montserrat is a small island in the West Indies, near Antigua and Nevis / St. Kits. Troy and Melody, a couple I met through my LDS, moved there at the end of 2005 to start their own business, The Green Monkey Dive Shop and Inn. They offer diving (recreational and classes), snorkeling, and plenty of topside activities. You can check out their operation at http://www.divemontserrat.com or e-mail them at troy@divemontserrat.com.

There was a lot to see underwater, including some firsts for me – the beautiful Flying Gunard, two schools of Squid, a Wolf Eel, and a male Rock Beauty with a blackened face for “courting”. I also witnessed Troy “dueling”, using a bright yellow snorkel, with the biggest lobster I will probably ever see! When the lobster tired of playing, he gave one great scoop with his tail, and he was 20 feet away, disappearing again into the reef. There was also a huge turtle (shell was at least 5 feet long) snuggled under a ledge being cleaned, and an abundance of the usual reef fish and creatures. Some sights offered beautiful soft coral “forests”, while others were dramatic landscapes of barrel sponges. The weather and volcanic activity combined to make the viz less than optimal for the Caribbean – 40 to 60 feet at the deeper / more remote sights, and 20 to 25 feet at the shallower / more accessible sights. But the water was 82 to 86 degrees and the dive sights still had a lot to offer. Troy is great at spotting underwater critters, and he was happy to take pictures for me and download them to CD for me to take home. Diving from the boat requires a short walk across the beach and wading through the surf, with perhaps a short swim to the boat, but several quality dive sights are only a 5 to 10 minute ride away. Seas permitting, there is also an awesome sight called “Hell’s Gate” at the northern tip of the island that is well worth the longer 15 minute ride. While I was there we did one night dive from a small public beach, but I understand the boat is now equipped with lights for night diving. My favorite!

Other than diving, there is also hiking, snorkeling, and sight seeing. One morning Melody took me hiking on a trail called “The Cot” where we investigated the ruins of an 1890’s estate destroyed during a hurricane, and had a spectacular view of the Caribbean Sea and the island’s active volcano. It’s awesome when you hear loud, rolling “thunder” on a clear blue day and realize it’s the rumbling of the volcano. I also got to snorkel into the “Bat Cave”, where hundreds, if not 1,000+ medium sized Fruit Bats reside. What a racket they make! And what a sight to see the walls covered in bats! Beware of falling guano! I was also fortunate enough to arrive on the island during the sea turtles’ nesting season, so one evening we went to the beach and were lucky enough to see two of them digging out large depressions in the sand. I didn’t get to see them laying eggs, but it was still an incredible experience. On my last afternoon we went on a boat ride to the southern part of the island to see the deserted city of Plymouth, which was destroyed by the 1997 volcanic eruption. Due to the high level of volcanic activity while I was there, we weren’t allowed visit the city on foot, and had to stay 200 meters off shore with the boat. But even at a distance it was a haunting sight. Due to weather, I wasn’t able to see the glow of the volcano’s dome at night. Maybe on my next trip!

All activities require that you have access to a vehicle, as nothing is within walking distance. You can get most anywhere in 15 to 20 minutes, but be prepared to drive on the left side while navigating the lush, mountainous terrain. And if you’re prone to motion sickness, either on land or on water, be sure to bring your favorite remedy.

My room at The Green Monkey Inn was decorated with fun, tropical touches and was very comfortable and charming. It included fans (no AC), TV, private bathroom, and there is also a nice in-ground pool with a spectacular view of the sea. Your cell phone won’t work on the island, but there is internet access. Troy and Melody do their best to make you feel welcome and to offer activities to suit your interests and make the most of your time in Montserrat.

So it was a great trip, and I thought I’d share my experience. If you have any questions or want any additional info, check out the web site at www.divemontserrat.com , e-mail Troy at troy@divemontserrat.com , or check out http://www.bigblueplanet.com/index.jsp?Referrer=EmailLink . You can also see an on line photo album at Kodakgallery.com Sign in to Kodakgallery.com . (You don’t have to register, just click on “View Slideshow”.)


Thanks again to Troy and Melody, and Happy Diving!

PS Be sure to try the Lettuce Soup! Troy and Melody can show you where to get it!
 
Sounds like an excellent trip. And your photos are fantastic!

theskull
 
Hi Sally,

Thanks for the review of this little reported upon location.

BTW, there are no wolf-eels (Anarrhichthys ocellatus) anywhere near the Caribbean. Their recorded distribution is the North Pacific: Sea of Okhotsk and the Sea of Japan to the Krenitzen Islands, in the Aleutian chain and southern California, USA.

Regards,

DocVikingo
 
DocVikingo:
Hi Sally,

Thanks for the review of this little reported upon location.

BTW, there are no wolf-eels (Anarrhichthys ocellatus) anywhere near the Caribbean. Their recorded distribution is the North Pacific: Sea of Okhotsk and the Sea of Japan to the Krenitzen Islands, in the Aleutian chain and southern California, USA.

Regards,

DocVikingo

So what might she have seen that would look a lot like a wolf eel?

theskull
 
Sorry about that! Another diver on the boat id'd it as a Wolf Eel. But I checked out my book and found a picture of a Spotted Snake Eel. Still a first sighting for me!
 
Hi trigfunctions,

Winair http://www.fly-winair.com is the only scheduled carrier that flies Montserrat. It usually makes the most sense to fly into St. Martin, then make the hop.

Regards,

DocVikingo
 
DocVikingo:

Thanks for the pics. That is one UGGLY! animal. I'm sure if that was what Sally had seen she would remember it and have nightmares about it. LOL.

theskull
 
trigfunctions:
Thanks for the review! I've been wanting to go there for some time. What were your flight arrangements?


I got there in a round about way (family business along the way) but it's challenging to schedule flights out of the midwest and make the trip in one day. Will be easier if you live on the east coast or in a hub city for the airline. Many people opt to stay overnight in Antigua. (Not a bad place to hang out!) My trip back - left Monserrat at 9:25am on Win-Air flight to Antigua (Win-Air is currently the only carrier out of Montserrat), left Antigua around 2:00pm on American Airlines flight to San Juan, left San Juan around 3:30pm on American Airlines flight to Chicago, and left Chicago at 10:30pm on American Airlines flight to St. Louis. I also know someone who had success scheduling flights on United.

Hope this helps!
 

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