Never had a problem with any paint coming off. Are you using painted or shot blasted tanks? All of mine are shot blasted (or whatever the term is for bare tanks). I would expect it to be easier to take off of painted tanks. It may also be a matter of the paint you use but I doubt it. I usually just grab one of the better brands that is designed for use on metal and use the flat stuff.
MOD stickers from Lowe's
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Never had a problem with any paint coming off. Are you using painted or shot blasted tanks? All of mine are shot blasted (or whatever the term is for bare tanks). I would expect it to be easier to take off of painted tanks. It may also be a matter of the paint you use but I doubt it. I usually just grab one of the better brands that is designed for use on metal and use the flat stuff.
lamont
Contributor
hmmm....
i was just going to post my advice, now perhaps i'll wait until after my next round of VIPs...
i used them for my initials on my shot blasted tanks and they all pretty much fell off on their own, but i didn't properly get the tanks warm and get the glue warm before applying them. this time i made damn sure they'd stick to the tanks well...
West Marine and BoatUS sells die cut lettering for boats that work very well on tanks.
Since when do stickers need to come off for a VIP? We only do that for Hydros.
Tom
Tom
PerroneFord
Contributor
Not according to my PSI course. As the large stickers might well impede visual inspection of corrosion, pitting, or other surface issues.
-P
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I used the reflect background ones from Home Depot. They really, really suck to get off. Too bad I have all my tanks labeled and dropped $5 a pop on the Halcyon ones. 
SCUBA_Phil
Contributor
I too use the reflect background ones from Home Depot. I pull off the sticker as best as possible, then get out the Xacto knife and shave off the glue (10 min on a tank), then wipe with WD-40 and a rag. Next I wash the tank with sponge and simple green. Now it's ready for a new set. In all it takes 20 min. to pull off the old set and make ready for the next. I have done this about 10 time so far. The 20 min estimate was from the last time, first time took longer!
Phil
Phil
If the sticker is intact with no evidence of damage to it and no evidence of an uneven surface beneath it or air bubbles in it/under it, it is not hiding anything and could stay on the tank. If it was placed over a corrosion pit, that pit will still be evident as an uneveness in the surface of the sticker, and if it was placed on a clean surface and is undamaged, the surface is still going to be clean and corrosion free.
The zealots out there however will insist that all stickers be removed - and then they will happily sell you new ones.
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I have used the reflective variety for years and how hard they are to remove depends on the brand. In general, the thicker the sticker the easier it will be to remove as it wil be much more likely to peel off in one piece. When peeling one off, get it started evenly and then pull it away at a 90 degree angle to the surface.
A suggestion for removing the stickers and glue that adheres them to your tanks. Simply run a blow dryer or heat gun over them to loosen up the glue. They should easily lift off, leaving no sticky residue to be scrapped off. And, please let me know how this works for you.
PerroneFord
Contributor
I've tried this on several occasions. Didn't work for me with the reflective stickers.
-P
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