Mk20/g250

[XLT_66]

So I'm all giddy right now. I stumbled upon a woman on craigslist who had some equipment for sale. I originally wanted to get some soft weights from her but she also said she had a MK20/G250 that was in good shape.

So, I bought it from her, in like new condition, for $25!!!!

It also has a Scubapro EDI Air Integrated computer on it. She said she bought it all new in 1999. Is this computer worth still using if it is good shape? I am currently using a nice suunto console with a aeris xr1 puck computer....

Also included I bought:

50 lbs in soft weights
UK Light Cannon 100 HID light
UK Blue Tang Titanium Dive Knife
Stahlsac Travel Dive Bag
Tilos Mesh Gear Bag
2 Random Masks
Various clips and gadgets

All for $100 total with the MK20/G250!!!

The light still sells for $300 and the knife still sells for $100. All equipment is in excellent condition...

Sooo happy right now.

 

[ae3753]

MK20/G250 is a great regulator. Very nice!

 

[halocline]

Amazing deal. The MK20 had a few different pistons depending on the year. If it's the middle one, with the brass tip, you should immediately replace it with the new composite piston. Whoever does the rebuild can let you know what yours has.

So now what are going to do with the MK5?

 

[XLT_66]

Is there any way to determine which piston I have from external features? Also, which G250 is this? Would it say HP or V on it like the Graphite one does?

Also, has anyone ever used the Scubapro EDI computer? Should I use this over the guage console with a aeris xr1 puck computer?

Please follow link because for some reason I am only getting little red x when I link to individual photos...

Picasa Web Albums - Evan - Drop Box

Many thanks!

 

[DA Aquamaster]

If it has a large plastic knob it is the HP, and most HP's say HP. If it is a smaller splined metal knob or a smaller plastic coated splined knob it is a G250.

A tech can almost always tell a brass tipped piston from the really mushy and creepy lockup with an IP gauge, but you can't tell just my looking at the outside.

Odds are it will also need a new yoke retainer, but that was a recall item and is a free replacement.

 

[cbmech2]

To add to what DA pointed out. You can tell if the MK20 does not have the yoke upgrade by looking at the plastic yoke saddle. If it has three slots then it has not had the upgrade. You can also upgrade the MK20 to a MK25 by replacing the seat retainer which, actually comes in an adjustment kit. Lucky you for such a find!!

 

[DA Aquamaster]

Don't bother with the Mk 25 upgrade - it just lets a tech adjust the IP in increments less than 5 psi and adds a potential leak point. The reg is far better without it.

 

[halocline]

There's one other thing regarding the yoke retainer upgrade; I heard from a reliable source that there was a shop in Austin that at one point was only switching the saddles, not the actual yoke retainer. They apparently thought that was it. Unbelievable, but since you're from Austin it is possible that you might have the upgraded saddle that indicates the new yoke retainer but still the old retainer.

You can search for old threads that discuss the MK20 yoke retainer issue. It was a hot button topic for a while. The very simplified version is that in a few cases out of thousands of MK20s, the body of the reg split, rendering it completely useless. This was attributed to severe over torqueing of the yoke retainer, so SP designed an idiot-proof replacement retainer. To my knowledge, the old retainer was perfectly fine as long as it was installed correctly.